Hello all

I've just purchased a one owner 93 300 TE, extremely pleased. Lovely riding vehicles.

Currently a few hours from home, and stuck using my phone. Having trouble searching for simple answers.


What oil and viscosity are generally recommended for winter/summer? I live in NC, winters are mild.

Should only 93 octane be used?


Where should the coolant temp gauge normally sit?

It idles at 550-600 rpm according to the tach. Is this normal, seems low?

Shifting into second gear, when you're very gentle on the throttle it will sometimes make a slightly pop noise... it's coming from the rear?


Thanks!

-40 will do it or even -50. 0W-40 and 15W-50 are commonly used synthetics, and 10W-40 or 20W-50 otherwise. This isn’t an exhaustive list. There aren’t a lot of reasons to use -30 or others but I doubt you’ll damage the engine.

At least 91 octane. 92 and 93 aren’t easily available in California and MBs don’t blow up.

About 85*C or closer to 80*C than 100*C. These gauges are more dynamic than typical American or Japanese car gauges that get to an operating point and never move. You might notice the gauge creep towards 100*C in heavy traffic on a hot day or pulling up a long grade at speed.

Probably normal given the electronic throttle actuator. You can’t really change idle speed.

Difficult to say but my guess is worn differential mounts. Peek at the differential from behind the car. There will be two mounts directly into the differential rear cover. The bolt heads should be centered in the rubber bushings. If the bolt heads aren’t centered, the bushings have collapsed. It’s an awful job because the differential has to come off or at least move clear of the bushings. The noise won’t get a lot worse so there isn’t any urgency. If the rear suspension needs work, you might as well drop the subframe. The bushings between the lower control arms and bearing holders also wear out on these cars causing creaking sounds when loading and unloading. It seems they’re ready for replacement the day after you install them.

Did you get a pre-purchase inspection? If not, look for a reputable independent and pay $100-150 for a health check.

Sixto
98 E320s sedan and wagon

It's a one owner vehicle, with service records from day 1. It was well maintained. I looked it over, but not too familiar with the gas models. I've only owned diesel Benz in the past. I know these have head gasket issues, wiring harness, and AC compressor problems. The head gasket was replaced, and the compressor has had work done over the years. It's currently working.


For oil, would a diesel 15w-40 oil be sufficient? The car in question has 250k miles. I will have to sift through all the paperwork, but I believe it was switched to synthetic oil at some point in its life. Switching to Dino wouldn't be a problem, just unsure if these engines like to run on a diesel based oil.

If not, then I would just run Castrol 10w-40 Dino for our winter here.

I believe you're correct. It looks like it's the diff mounts! It doesn't always do it, and it's very faint. Just starting to fail. Easy repair.



Thanks!!

The temp gauge stays right here while cruising. I noticed it went down slightly at one point while off the highway. Otherwise it's pretty much at this level.

It's around 40 degrees out here.

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I know folks who swear by Diesel rated (not based) oil in their M104s.

I’ve never had an M104 but I believe the replaceable filter element is in a canister off the driver side rear end of the engine. Most likely under a cover with a couple of nuts that take a 13mm wrench. If you have the equipment to extract oil through the dipstick tube, you don’t need to get under the car for an oil change.

Temp gauge looks good.

Sixto
98 E320s sedan and wagon

Yeah I might just use delo400 or castrol gtx.

Thanks. Trying to order a filter, and misc parts for 1993 it's showing 3.0 or a 3.2. I didn't know these came with two motors

The ‘93 300TE 4Matic came with the 3-liter M103 whuch I think uses a spin-on oil filter.

Sixto
98 E320s sedan and wagon

Mines a non 4matic so it appears to be the 3.2

Shawnb, the temperature gauge needle looks "normal" with the engine up to temperature.

If the PO was using synthetic oil I would recommend Mobil 1 15W50. That is the oil I have used in our MB engines of that vintage for the past 18 years.

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Fred Hoelzle

Going through receipts it looks like they switched to synthetic later in it's life, but had a few dino changes in the mix. It's never gone more than 5,000 miles without an oil change since new, so that's refreshing to see.

10w-40 Shell euro was used during winter, and 15w-50 during summer.


I'm going to change the oil today, with Delo 400 dino 15w-40, only because I have a bunch leftover. I will drain it at 3500 miles, and have the oil tested. I drive a BUNCH, and wouldn't want to exceed 5,000 miles on an oil change in one of these. it's hard to beat Delo in this situation.....


Appreciate the input!

Shawnb, the oil change frequency recommended for that vintage engine by MB is 7,500 miles. I adhere to that schedule for our MB vehicles. That frequency should be fine for your 1993 300TE, especially if you do significant highway driving.

__________________
Fred Hoelzle

Perfect, Thanks!

The car had 10w-40 in it when purchased. I swapped it out with Delo 15w-40 Dino a few days ago.

This morning it was right under 20 degrees, and on cold start a lifter was noisy for a split second. My daily drivers are usually always diesel, so I'm used to clatter. Hearing that for the brief second scares me though!