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  #16  
Old 07-11-2018, 03:17 PM
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I think I have one of those in my garage. Definitely show how to get it in there if you can!
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80 300SD 183K- Brother's
83 300D manual 100K chassis- Dad's
87 190D 320K
88 Yugo GVX 9K
90 300D 226K
90 Lexus LS400 189k- Brother's
91 F150 4.9 160K
93 190E 2.6 Sportline Limited Edition 230K-Mom's
93 190E 2.6 Sportline Limited Edition 91K-Mine
96 Mercury Grand Marquis LS 242K
03 Sprinter 2500 Passenger 220K
06 Mercury Grand Marquis LS 105K-Mom's
Parts cars:
77 240D Auto-RIP
79 300SD- RIP
80 300SD
83 240D-RIP
85 240D-RIP
91 190E 2.3- RIP
93 190E 2.6-RIP
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  #17  
Old 07-11-2018, 03:19 PM
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The w203 fan is a monster. Does it fit between the 2.6 engine and radiator?
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  #18  
Old 07-11-2018, 07:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjts1 View Post
The w203 fan is a monster. Does it fit between the 2.6 engine and radiator?
Yes, I made it fit. Its not crazy hot outside today. We are only at 105F with about 34% humidity. So far the temp remains about 85C with ac in stop and go traffic. I need to see how it will work once we hit around 115 dry heat. I did notice that without the 2 front aux fans, the temp is lower. Obviously because the condenser and radiator aren't blocked. But even when the 203 fan is off, the temps still seems to climb a lot slower than with the aux fans in front. Oh....and if you thought the 2 small aux fans were loud at high speed, the car now sounds like a plane idling on the runway. It's probably about 10 times louder than the 2 small aux fans.
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  #19  
Old 07-11-2018, 08:32 PM
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Nice, got any pics? What alternator are using? What's your voltage at idle with the fan going? The C320 has a 120a or 150a alternative depending on options. And yes at full tilt that thing sounds like a cfm56 at ground idle.
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  #20  
Old 07-12-2018, 07:38 AM
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Please share the wiring scheme you used?
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1986 300E (3/2002) Rear ended and totaled (10/2009)
2000 Xterra (5/2000)
1992 400E (11/2009) -Sold
1986 300E (12/2009)
2004 E500 Wagon (6/2013)
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  #21  
Old 07-12-2018, 01:50 PM
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I have wired up a very slim spal branded puller fan in a W124 300E, I used a standalone controller which was pushed into the radiator fins with a plastic tooth thing.

It was a variable speed that way and had a bypass to go full speed once the A/C starts - it really kept the temps down - but sounded like a banshee.

the big MB fan from a later model is not supposed to be run at full power for more than a few minutes I think, the motor heats up very badly.
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  #22  
Old 07-12-2018, 03:48 PM
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I'm very interested in seeing the W203 fan mounted between the W201 radiator and the M103 engine.
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  #23  
Old 07-12-2018, 06:38 PM
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Does anyone know what this blue/green wire is for? It's the connector that goes into the fan controller so it is part of the w203 wiring harness?
Attached Thumbnails
Newer MB 600 watt electrical fan in a m103-img_20180712_141746.jpg  
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  #24  
Old 07-12-2018, 06:54 PM
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I believe the green/blue wire is the trigger, though I can't tell you how it operates.
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80 300SD 183K- Brother's
83 300D manual 100K chassis- Dad's
87 190D 320K
88 Yugo GVX 9K
90 300D 226K
90 Lexus LS400 189k- Brother's
91 F150 4.9 160K
93 190E 2.6 Sportline Limited Edition 230K-Mom's
93 190E 2.6 Sportline Limited Edition 91K-Mine
96 Mercury Grand Marquis LS 242K
03 Sprinter 2500 Passenger 220K
06 Mercury Grand Marquis LS 105K-Mom's
Parts cars:
77 240D Auto-RIP
79 300SD- RIP
80 300SD
83 240D-RIP
85 240D-RIP
91 190E 2.3- RIP
93 190E 2.6-RIP
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  #25  
Old 07-12-2018, 07:53 PM
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Which green wire? the one in the plug or the one bundled up? Or are those the same wire I'm looking at? Picture is dark.

Here is a pinout of the connector

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Newer MB 600 watt electrical fan in a m103-capture.jpg  
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  #26  
Old 07-13-2018, 12:17 AM
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Its the PWM signal wire. The other smaller wire is the circuit 15 connection. When circuit 15 has power and there is no PWM signal the fan defaults to 100% on. A 10% PWM signal is needed to hold the fan off when circuit 15 is present.
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Turbo 103, T3/T04E 50 trim
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MS2E, 60-2 Direct Coil Control
3" Exhaust, AEM W/B O2
Underdrive Alt. and P/S Pulleys,
Vented Rear Brake Discs, .034 Booster.
3.07 diffs, 1st Gear Start

91 300CE parting

90 300CE 104.980
Milled & ported head, 10.3:1 compression
197 intake cam w/20 advancer
4 ignition advance
PCS TCM2000 running 722.6 trans, 600W PWM fan, water injection
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  #27  
Old 07-13-2018, 11:44 AM
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Ok, got it. It's the speed controller.
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  #28  
Old 08-16-2018, 04:16 AM
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Thumbs up 600 watt MB fan in a m103 is a beast!

Ok guys here's a video of the fan in action. I am still cleaning up the wiring and what not. Since this video, I have added a second battery in the trunk just to manage the starter and added a 500 amp battery isolator. This video just shows the fan in action on a 117 degree day, sitting idle, with a/c on. The needle never moves past the 90C mark. To save you all some time, I turn the a/c on at about 2:05 and record the remaining footage monitoring the needle. Several minutes pass and the needle actually drops the temp down a bit. I was considering adding or finding a pwm to control fan speed, but I actually think I'm going to just leave it as is. It is on the same set up as the stock fans. However, I did wire it in to the thermoswitch so that it turns on at about 91C. I also still have the manual in-cabin switch as well. Quite honestly, removing the 2 aux fans from the front, I have noticed the engine runs a lot cooler, even without the 600 watt running. So far, the only issue that I did notice (which caused me to add the second battery) was that when I shut the engine off, once the engine temp began to rise, the aux water pump and fan would both turn on to bring the temp back down. This caused a bit of an issue with battery drain, nothing major because I am running a Bosch AGM, but the semi-slow crank on start up made me realize that It would be a good idea to isolate a second battery and starter so I wouldn't ever be left stranded. So that was about the only issue, which has been pretty much fixed to my satisfaction. I still may take an additional precaution and add a diode inline to the secondary + battery terminal to prevent drain at low idle speed and also a secondary + cable going to the starter with another inline diode so that the 2 are completely isolated from the rest of the system. So only power going to the secondary battery while engine is running or KOEO, and power only leaving secondary battery during cranking.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/4GB3WM9Bx9ao2u3g8
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