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#1
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I did this job on my w201 and it was surprisingly very simple. I didn't remove the subframe and used all regular hand tools. You will need a 12 mm (or 10 mm, I forget which size) xzn triple square for the eccentric bolt. Also, get a 30 mm 12 point socket (the one to remove the axle nut). It just so happens that the 30 mm socket fits perfectly on the race of the rear control arm bushing and you can hammer it out right through the control arm and put the new one in without any damage to the bushing. A good tip to use is to get a small quart of white paint/primer and use it on all the bolts/nuts. I have made it a habit to use the white paint and starting from the center on a bolt, I will draw either a horizontal or vertical line extending to the surface of the vehicle (sorta like making a notch) to ensure that everything goes back exactly how it was. This will help with the misalignment issue. When torquing everything down, the wheel should be on the ground, but for this part I usually jack up from under the control arm to get the wheel where it would level if it were on the ground and I would torque everything to spec that way then I would put the wheel back on and take it for a test drive. Good luck.
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![]() 1990 190E 3.0L |
#2
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W124 Rear Control Arm Links
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Would you have a recommendation for a 'sequence-of-removal' of the various five links? IOW, should one remove say the upper-most link first, then another and so on.... Thanks for the tips! Dale
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Dale 1995 E320 Wagon 185K [SOLD] 1988 260e Sedan 165K 2007 F-150 XLT 188K [SOLD] 2003 Harley Davidson FLTRI Anniversary 26K ----------------------------- 2006 BMW 330Ci 110K - [SOLD]
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#3
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W124 Rear Control Arm Links
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Somebody care to draw or take a picture explaining this procedure? Jeeesh, I'm a thick head at times ![]() Thanks Dale EDIT: Is this at all the idea? ![]()
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Dale 1995 E320 Wagon 185K [SOLD] 1988 260e Sedan 165K 2007 F-150 XLT 188K [SOLD] 2003 Harley Davidson FLTRI Anniversary 26K ----------------------------- 2006 BMW 330Ci 110K - [SOLD]
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