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  #1  
Old 11-03-2019, 01:00 AM
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Tune up, now car won’t start

Gave my friends 85 230e (m102 engine) a tune up with the following new parts : Bosch ignition rotor and cap, Bosch spark plugs (h8dc0) and four new fuel injectors. Now the car won’t start!

Ran fine before all though a little rough at times.

Plugged one of the old plugs into a wire and got spark when cranking.

Fuel pump is new and operating well.

Car ran fine yesterday. Any ideas ?

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  #2  
Old 11-03-2019, 04:37 AM
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Location: Southeastern PA
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Confirm that ignition wires from distributor cap run to the proper cylinder and that the coil wire is firmly seated.
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Old 11-03-2019, 08:44 AM
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X2 ^^^

Are you certain the rotor was installed?...been there.

Do what Ferdman said first.

If no success put #1 cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke and confirm that the rotor is pointing at plug wire #1 on the cap, tap the key to learn the rotor direction of travel (CW or CCW) and then confirm the rest of the firing order/plug wires.
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Old 11-03-2019, 12:06 PM
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Location: Modesto CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sugar Bear View Post
Are you certain the rotor was installed?...been there.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mabbonizio View Post
Gave my friends 85 230e (m102 engine) a tune up with the following new parts : Bosch ignition rotor and cap, Bosch spark plugs (h8dc0) and four new fuel injectors. Now the car won’t start!
Ran fine before all though a little rough at times.

Plugged one of the old plugs into a wire and got spark when cranking.

Fuel pump is new and operating well.
Car ran fine yesterday. Any ideas ?

The OP has confirmed the presence of the rotor!, though the firing order is in question.
Inasmuch as the car is a non-US model, it may or may not have a timer-type fuel pump relay. If of the timer-type, cycling the key to on, then off, then on again should produce audible fuel pump running for 1-2 seconds with each key on. If of the non-timer type, push down on air-flow sensor plate with the key on; pump should run.
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Old 11-03-2019, 07:59 PM
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Thanks everyone ! Well I am embarrassed to say I had installed the plug wires in the wrong locations on the cap. Changed them and the engine fired right up and ran nice and strong.

One thing I noticed is that the engine sometimes requires longer cranking to start. It will start, then sputter for a second or two before evening out.

Thoughts on why it would do this?

At this point all the ignition components are new (minus the coil)

The fuel pump, filter, and injectors are new as well.

I have replaced “most” of the vacuum lines under the hood.
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  #6  
Old 11-05-2019, 06:21 AM
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When was the Oxygen sensor last replaced?
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  #7  
Old 11-05-2019, 11:23 AM
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Hot or cold start? Had a similar issue with my 190E 2.6, both cold and hot. Cranking speed was on the slow side, and I knew the battery was weak. It was a 17-year old Johnson Controls 26R that I had killed stone dead twice over the years. I finally replaced it (another Johnson Controls 26R from Walmart - only 50 bucks), and the problem went away. I figure low cranking voltage affected the cold start enhancements, which are in the "E" part of the KE system.

Prior to replacing the battery I always gave the throttle a little kick once it fired, and that usually kept it from stalling or running rough for the first few seconds, but the new battery with higher cranking voltage/speed was the answer.

Duke

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