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#16
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Didn’t want to start a new thread, so I will ask here and I may post over in diesel section as well.
Does anyone know the distance between the lower radiator support and the front sway bar on the 95 E320? I would use my 87 wagon as reference but not sure if there is a difference between diesel and gasser. If no one knows off the top of their head, where would one find this information? Wanted to pull the radiator support back to as close as original position before replacing oil pan. Other than changing motor mounts, anything else I should “do while I’m in there” when replacing oil pan? Thanks. -Scott
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2022 FORD F-150 Lariat 1987 300TD 2007 GL 320 CDI 2002 ML 320 1985 300TD 1995 E320 (sold) 1991 500SL (parted out) 1995 E300D (RIP) 1991 300D (RIP) 1995 E320 Wagon (sold) 1992 300TE (sold) 1988 300CE (sold) 1994 E320 (sold) 1995 E300D (sold) 1978 300D (RIP) 1987 260E (sold) 1992 400E (parted out) 1989 300E (parted out) Last edited by sfsegui; 01-25-2020 at 05:55 PM. |
#17
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What a great deal!
I would also be wondering about hidden engine damage if the engine was not shut off immediately after the pan crack incident, but cant really know without tearing into it, same with the tranny. But since it ran well during the test drive, it looks to be worth taking a chance for the cost of an oil pan and fluids? |
#18
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sfsegui, why not just position the radiator so it has the same gap top-to-bottom from the fan. I recall seeing a picture where the shroud ring appeared to be missing. Best to get a replacement if that's the case.
If you lower the right rear window, when you turn the ignition key you should hear the fuel pump running before turning the key to the start position. If not, you should check the fuel pump relay.
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Fred Hoelzle |
#19
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Got the radiator support pulled back NEAR its original position, I believe. Used a come along and the ball hitch on my wagon and pulled left side about 2 inches and right side about an inch. Looks to be equal clearance all around, no interference from any pulleys, and replacement shroud fits with no fan contact.
Pulled car back in garage (car starts quickly and idles beautifully), drained oil, and put up on ramps. Oil was showing a little low on dipstick but my duct tape/JB Weld fix had surprisingly kept most of oil in pan with only 1 1/2 to 2 liters having leaked out over the past few days. Removed front sway bar to gain a little more room to access oil pan. Called it a day (actually wife called it a day for me). Hopefully will have pan off with replacement installed by beginning of next week. Will update as progress is made.
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2022 FORD F-150 Lariat 1987 300TD 2007 GL 320 CDI 2002 ML 320 1985 300TD 1995 E320 (sold) 1991 500SL (parted out) 1995 E300D (RIP) 1991 300D (RIP) 1995 E320 Wagon (sold) 1992 300TE (sold) 1988 300CE (sold) 1994 E320 (sold) 1995 E300D (sold) 1978 300D (RIP) 1987 260E (sold) 1992 400E (parted out) 1989 300E (parted out) |
#20
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I would really try to save that one if possible as a driver. Looks way too nice to scrap.
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#21
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UPDATE
Got cracked pan removed and new pan installed.
What a bear of a job. I bit the bullet and bought the Harbor Freight 1 town engine hoist. Still took me better part of 2 days to remove and replace oil pan. Had the engine lifted higher, much higher than I expected, almost to an uncomfortable height. Was still incredibly tight. I haven’t dropped that many f-bombs in years! Went ahead and replaced motor mounts while I was in there. Got everything buttoned up and started her up. Idle smoother than I could’ve imagined. Went out for a quick test drive. All going well, no strange sounds or smells. At a stoplight a few minutes into drive and notice oil pressure at 1.5 while idling. Goes back up to around 2.5 while driving but slowly begins to drop. Even under moderate acceleration is still dropping. A few miles later has dropped to 0. No strange sounds or smells. Get home a few minutes later and pop hood while still running. Notice a burning smell, when open the hood a small plume of smoke is coming from the rear of engine between rear and firewall. No leaks underneath. Open oil filler cap to make sure oil is being pumped through engine and oil is splashing all over, that makes me feel a little better about oil pressure. Hoping this is just a faulty oil pressure sender. Am I correct in thinking most likely faulty oil pressure sender since i can see oil splashing around under filler cap??? If I had damaged oil pump during removal/installation of pan, what would symptoms be?? The smoke is my main concern currently. I could have easily damaged something when I lifted the engine as high as I did. Any thoughts on where to look and what to look for?? Once again, thanks for all support and suggestions. -Scott
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2022 FORD F-150 Lariat 1987 300TD 2007 GL 320 CDI 2002 ML 320 1985 300TD 1995 E320 (sold) 1991 500SL (parted out) 1995 E300D (RIP) 1991 300D (RIP) 1995 E320 Wagon (sold) 1992 300TE (sold) 1988 300CE (sold) 1994 E320 (sold) 1995 E300D (sold) 1978 300D (RIP) 1987 260E (sold) 1992 400E (parted out) 1989 300E (parted out) |
#22
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Sounds like the sender. That is also a pain to change. Find someone with really small hands and arms to help. Smoke is most likely from a oil leak or a leaky hose on the smog pump
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1993 e300 1995 e320 1994 e320 2006 s500 4matic 2004 Jeep wj overland 2001 Ducati 748 2004 Honda shadow aero |
#23
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Bad Lower Harness??
After another short drive last night, oil light on and off and still 0 oil pressure after warm up. (Oil is just between min and max on dipstick)No smoke however. Started thinking about the smoke and the oil light/pressure issue.
Looked back through records and no mention of lower harness being addressed. I obviously jostled/moved the lower harness around with removal of oil pan. Went back under car and could clearly see insulation has deteriorated on the lower harness. I believe my smoke issue was either dropped/spilled oil on exhaust or wiring harness rubbing against something. From my research, seems the lower harness is NLA, but looks like there are a few new ones still being sold on eBay and from my research, this isn’t a difficult re-wire.
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2022 FORD F-150 Lariat 1987 300TD 2007 GL 320 CDI 2002 ML 320 1985 300TD 1995 E320 (sold) 1991 500SL (parted out) 1995 E300D (RIP) 1991 300D (RIP) 1995 E320 Wagon (sold) 1992 300TE (sold) 1988 300CE (sold) 1994 E320 (sold) 1995 E300D (sold) 1978 300D (RIP) 1987 260E (sold) 1992 400E (parted out) 1989 300E (parted out) |
#24
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Quote:
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1993 e300 1995 e320 1994 e320 2006 s500 4matic 2004 Jeep wj overland 2001 Ducati 748 2004 Honda shadow aero |
#25
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just in case: it's a low oil level light, these cars don't have a traditional "oil light" Quote:
I would either fix the sender/wiring or rent a mechanical oil pressure gauge from autozone. ASAP If it truly is low pressure then my bet would be a stuck oil pressure relief valve. What I don't like about M103/M104 is that to get to it you have to remove the entire oil pan. |
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