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w124 rear differential mount hack
Hi all,
Thought I'd share a hack that I learned about with other makes that has been used on my w124 300td and could apply to other models as well. Disclaimer: I advocate proper repairs most always, but at times, if you are in a pinch, or just want to delay a real PIA repair, a hack can come in handy. Having done diff bushings before on this car, and as most, found it a real PIA, I had little desire to face this again after finding some missing rubber chunks in my current rear bushings. I decided to inject an expoxy compound into the voids to restore firmness, and after a month so far, am quite pleased with the results. No more clunking in the rear. I used jb weld clear 2 part epoxy with the self mixing injection nozzle for ease of application. Depending on how much you need, you may need to create a damn with masking tape to keep the epoxy in place. Thejb weld is fast set, 5min, so works pretty well and is compact enough to do this job. Other alternatives include, injectable rubber, silicone and similar compounds, most will depend on ease of access, drying time, flexibility and application methods with injection being the best. The jb weld is available at most big box stores. This method is used in several Japanese cars, where the diff bushing, mount, is not considered a maintenance part an requires the purchase of a new and expensive subframe assembly. Thus the idea was born and successfully employed on thousands of cars. I plan to continue with this as needed until I ever need to drop the subframe to do a bunch of things at the same time and replace the diff bushings then. I'll report back with more long term results. Hope this is of value to some of you.
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Stable Mates: 1987 300TD 310K mi (Hans) 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee OM642 165k mi (Benzrokee) |
#2
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87TD thank you ,, this is well worth thinking about and looking in to this type of repair .
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Two Part polyurethane liquid is a good product too. Reynolds Advanced Materials has tons of different hardness and applications. I used it for my subframe bushings on my 450slc drift car. I went too soft though. Great for street but slightly to rubbery. I think I used 60 shore. You can get it from energy suspension as well in 80 and 90 shore I believe.
Sent from my SM-J737A using Tapatalk
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WARNING!!! VINTAGE MERCEDES MAY MULTIPLY UNCONTROLABLY!!! I have tons of Sl/Slc parts w108 w111 w126 and more. E-mail me with needs BirchsgarageMB@gmail.com |
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several options exist
Thanks for the additional information, glad to see others find a benefit in this. I must say, I prefer the 15minute fix to the 15 hr one. Especially if it lasts.
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Stable Mates: 1987 300TD 310K mi (Hans) 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee OM642 165k mi (Benzrokee) |
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Quote:
I am also facing this job and would prefer a short term fix until I can pull and rebuild the entire rear suspension. Thank you!!
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Current Fleet: ‘97 S320 Black LWB - Sold ‘85 300TD - Sold #wagonlifeordie ‘79 300SD - Sold ‘84 300D Anthracite Grey Metallic - Sold ‘80 300D 100k mi - Sold ‘77 280E Gold - Sold |
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@acb70
Thanks for the long term close the loop reminder. Well it's been 4 plus years and about 10k miles since I did this and still haven't had to go back to mess with it. Probably the reason I forgot to report back here So far it has worked well. Should I need to go back and touch up at some point, I'll stick with the same approach. |
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Quote:
Thank you for following up.
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Current Fleet: ‘97 S320 Black LWB - Sold ‘85 300TD - Sold #wagonlifeordie ‘79 300SD - Sold ‘84 300D Anthracite Grey Metallic - Sold ‘80 300D 100k mi - Sold ‘77 280E Gold - Sold |
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