190e -84 2.0l runs bad and stalls when warm - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Fistekake · #1 02-25-2020, 04:41 PM

Hi, so i got a 190e from -84 with a annoying issue. The car starts up fine and runs fine but after it gets warm ( usually 5-10 minutes) it starts stalling and will not respond at all. If you give it too much gas it just dies and it will have a hard time starting again, you can manage to move if you slip on the clutch with little gas but even then when i put in the third gear its too much and it dies. I basically can't drive it all. Sometimes it backfires if you force it gas. I can hear the fuel pump go off when i turn the ignition. I really wouldn't like to spend too much money on it buying parts until i find whats wrong so i was hoping you guys could have an idea. Thanks in advance!

Ferdman · #2 02-28-2020, 06:16 AM

If you are unfamiliar with MB vehicles and are not a longtime DIY'er, recommend that you take your 190E to an independent tech who is familiar with that vintage MB vehicle. You want to avoid throwing parts at the problem. Better to have an accurate diagnosis performed by a professional.

Fistekake · #3 02-28-2020, 09:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ferdman

If you are unfamiliar with MB vehicles and are not a longtime DIY'er, recommend that you take your 190E to an independent tech who is familiar with that vintage MB vehicle. You want to avoid throwing parts at the problem. Better to have an accurate diagnosis performed by a professional.

I have very little experience with MB vehicles indeed. I was just hoping that maybe someone have had a similar problem and a possible solution before i'll leave it to someone else. But i understand it may not be so easy to point out just like that. I might add that if you stop the car for about 30 seconds to a minute after it stalls it will fire up and run fine again for a couple of hundred feet until it stalls again, like if something was getting hot?

sm. pelle · #4 03-02-2020, 10:22 PM

From beans its distributor issue, might be just full of moisture, next spark wires.
Wouldnt hurt to change all+spark plugs.

JSCC · #5 03-03-2020, 02:39 PM

I had a similar issue on my 300SEL. Eventually found out I had two issues.
1. Bosch distributor cap was cracked.
2. Ignition Control Module. When the car and ICM gets hot, it would cut out. Same symptoms as you describe. Try an ice-pack on the iCM when the car cuts out, and if it starts and idles fine, that is your issue. Instead of a new one, I got a used one off eBay. Still running fine after a year!

Good luck! It took me and my mechanic about four months to sort it out..

pawoSD · #6 03-04-2020, 08:30 PM

I used to have a M102 engine in my 190, that engine drove me crazy with its idle/throttle issues. Even a German shop I took it too couldn't get it running right, most likely was a worn fuel distributor + other issues.

End solution? Swapped it with an OM601 diesel. Car became 100% reliable for the 5.5+ years I drove it after that....not to mention 35% better mpg. Only drawback was having 50 less horsepower.

Interestingly enough my M116 v8 was perfectly reliable for the 55,000+ miles and 7+ years I had it after I replaced all the rubber boots/grommets/hoses on the engine to stop vacuum leaks. And it had the same type of fuel system. (CIS-E)

Fistekake · #7 03-05-2020, 12:17 AM

Thanks, new distribitutor cap, plugs and wires. Same result, i have a new ignition coil, rotor and some other stuff on the way. Also could the fuel filter act up and give these sympthoms? I shall try to put ice on the ICM next also.

optimusprime · #8 03-06-2020, 07:02 AM

Get every part in the ht system replaced before you go messing with the injectiion side . Are all the fuses in good condition .Another is the fuel pump relay if it stops again remove it and hard wire the relay and pop it back in .There are numbers on the base of the relay on some you hard wire 7 and 8 but yours might be different .

pawoSD · #9 03-10-2020, 09:50 PM

The CIS-E engines are also SUPER sensitive to vacuum leaks. Every single piece of rubber on the engine must be in good shape. All vacuum line connections, gaskets, seals, etc. Intake gasket/boot under the air cleaner, the smog pump hoses/lines, even the o-ring on the dipstick for engine oil can leak vacuum!