Can the Gen II W126 condenser be adapted to a GEN I system, if yes do you think it worthwhile?

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'83 SD, 2x '85 SD
You are entitled to your own opinions, you are not entitled to your own facts.

That I do not know. I'd suspect if so you'd need custom hoses at a minimum. By the time you're in that far, you'd be better off to build a parallel flow setup to compensate for the weaker performance of the Gen I A/C setup (and it goes without saying, convert to a Sanden compressor to get rid of the unpolished poo that the R4 is). The Gen II's have a vastly improved system all around.

__________________
Current stable:
1995 E320 157K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 125K (SLoL)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

Gone and wanting to forget:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™) [Definitely NOT a Benz]

Also consider tint your windshield with clear 3M ceramic tint, and also all the windows. The ceramic tint will substantially reduce interior cabin temperatures. "Normal" black window tint will not reduce the heat the same way that the more expensive ceramic tint does.

Go on youtube and search for "ceramic tint vs regular tint" you will see massive differences in temperatures with heat lamps between ceramic tint and normal (cheap) tint. And a clear ceramic tint will not change the aesthetics of your car if you don't want a totally limo look.

Disconnect everything, flush it all out, add proper amount of mineral oil, vacuum and charge. Make sure you remove the compressor, turn it over and empty any existing oil in it, put mineral oil in it and then flush/empty again then add oil before bolting it back up.

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Jim

Thanks !! shall I pour the whole 7.75 Oz to the compressor itself, or pour some in dryer or condenser ... etc after flushing

Ceramic tint makes a HUGE difference on interior temps. It was on the agenda for my 350SD before the plague happened, now put off for a while. My point to the OP is that even a completely stock car with no tint should be able to blow cold when converted to 134a.

__________________
Current stable:
1995 E320 157K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 125K (SLoL)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

Gone and wanting to forget:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™) [Definitely NOT a Benz]

Will a parallel flow aluminum condenser will boost the AC ? I will take everything a part flush and put back with fresh oil

My 1985 300D was converted to R134 several years ago. The original compressor was replaced at the time with a genuine Mercedes (Delco?) compressor. I live in Southern California. I consistently measure 45-50 degree air from all 4 vents. I also replaced the monovalve with a complete new unit at the time of the conversion to R134.

Does your system have UV dye in it? If not, it should be put in next time it's recharged. This way you'll know where it's leaking.

Yes, No leaks

If there is a tear in the rubber diaphragm within the monovalve assembly, then you will get hot coolant circulating in the heater core when you want a/c.

Parallel flow condenser will work **substantiallly** better with r134a than the original tube condenser which was designed for r12. The original r12 condensers the w123 and w126 chassis Mercedes came with will work with r134a but will have lackluster performance in hot weather. You can get universal parallel flow condensers, but you will also need to know how to make custom a/c hoses, which a good a/c shop can do. Cabin temps will be in the 40's with a parallel flow condenser and r134a.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M5lvHxCVxWg

I ordered one from here, he raised the price today !!! he said he is getting more calls about them, his name is Matthew, one kit with brackets and hoses

https://klimakit.com/product/parallel-flow-condenser-upgrade-kit-w126/

I'm not so certain you could find a better price on a universal p flow condenser. Measure clearance and then find one that will fit with the fittings in the correct place.

I don't know what the total oil capacity is on this application.

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Jim

Sure seems like a lot of money to throw after a solution that isn't the problem. These Gen II W126's blow mid 40s on a 100+ day running 134a. I don't know what you think the parallel flow condenser is going to achieve since the pushbutton unit switches off the compressor when the evaporator coil reaches 38-41˚ (42-44˚ vent temp). The Gen 1 (Pre-'86) cars are a totally different story.

I'm just waiting for the OP to come back complaining that his $300 coil and $100+ worth of R12 didn't fix his problem.

__________________
Current stable:
1995 E320 157K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 125K (SLoL)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

Gone and wanting to forget:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™) [Definitely NOT a Benz]

I have 3 spares climate controls, I plugged them before to test the system, no change at all, my compressor is running all the time I can tell from the clutch and the gas flowing on the glass sight, never seen my AC less that 53F from center vents since I bought the cars 4 years ago. its eaither full of oil or something else, even when I checked the service order from the dealership that the previous owner gave me, when he paid $4K to convert the AC to 134A at there, the note says (no leak detected, the system is holding pressure, the owner claimed the AC was blowing hot air from the center vent) after 4K and 3 months at the dealer ship as they ordered all the hoses from Germany, the note says (AC works fine, 50F is blowing from the center vents)