85 380sl burned out 4 of the 8 rear bulbs now no signals,emergency flashers, antena doesn't rise or interior lights. Fuse is not blown. Is it the flasher relay or regulator over charging and blowing the bulbs and relay. Has anyone been here before?

Sometimes they corrode if they are original aluminum fuses. Just rotate them or upgrade to copper (check fuses 12 and 13)

check your running voltage or just buy one of those cheap cig lighter volt meters/usb

once you check this stuff do this:

remove the red hazard switch plug (you have to remove the center wood piece) and with a multimeter check for voltage at the terminals 30 and 15 of the plug for the switch and report back (30 should be live at all times and 15 should have power with the key turned)

page 30 has the turn signal/flasher diagram:

https://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/11883/PROGRAM/ETM/83etm.pdf

good luck

Thanks for the feed back, The Voltage on #30 is zero with key on or off . #15 gave me 12.04 V with key on. with engine running Voltage out of the alternator is 13.85

now that's interesting.


We will have to check 2 things:

1. Why there's no voltage at #30 (hazards won't work with no voltage at #30)

2. With voltage at #15 your turn signals should work yet they don't.


let's start with no voltage at #30:

#30 gets it's voltage directly from the fuse 12. Get a multimeter and with one end on ground (or battery negative) and with a positive lead check for voltage on BOTH sides of the fuse 12.

if you're getting voltage on both sides of fuse 12 then do this:

disconnect the battery and set your multimeter to checking continuity setting. With a long wire you will need to connect one end to #30 of the hazard plug and the other end of the meter to fuse 12. This will check for a possible break in the wire/fusebox.


Now lets see why your turn signals don't work despite having voltage at #15:

Check simple stuff like bulbs first.

Check for continuity on the hazard switch (not the plug) between terminals 49 and 15. In off position there should be continuity.

Connect the hazard switch plug back together and everything.

you can check if the voltage makes it to the flasher relay plug terminal #3 but I think that on your car the relay is behind the instrument cluster.



You can further study the diagram to check the hazard switch itself and follow all the safety rules when working on an electrical system.

Your running voltage is good you can also check it at high rpm.

ok No power at both ends of fuse 12. no continuity on hazard switch between 15 and 49.
When headlights are on fuse 12 is hot.
I think without continuity in the hazard switch 12 doesnt get hot.
I think I need a new hazard switch and go from there

That's weird. check if you have voltage at connector C105

page 2:

https://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/11883/PROGRAM/ETM/83etmComp.pdf


if you don't have continuity with the switch on or off then you need a new switch.

fuse 12 should have battery voltage regardless of the hazard switch. Even if you remove the switch completely the fuse 12 should have voltage

You may also have a weak ground somewhere:


https://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/11883/PROGRAM/Chassis/54-100.pdf