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Testing for Bad Steering Gear
After replacing just about everything in the front end of my 190e I'm having a fairly difficult time tracking down a wander at highway speed. One thing I've noticed is that my steering wheel doesn't really seem to return to center very well if at all. I've heard this can be caused by overtightening the steering box and when I went to try and loosen it I found the locknut seized. If I turn the wheel 180 degrees while stopped and start driving it'll correct to about 50-60 degrees of center. I have just about 1 inch of play in the wheel but it is fairly heavy to turn as well.
Is there anyway to determine the gear is bad before I drop $300 on a new one? I believe my wander is due to the steering wheel not wanting to center and following any imperfections in the road. Alignment was done and caster is 10.2 both sides. I've replaced the following: LCAs w/ ball joints, entire tie rods, center link, idler arm bushings, steering damper, springs and struts are also new. Am I missing anything else? |
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Interested to see what everyones input is, I am preparing to do the same overhaul of my 190e. My car has excessive play in the steering, but I've always attributed that to very worn tie rods, center link, idler arm and damper on top of the pump being very audible at low speeds.
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1" of play or less is normal for steering systems using pitman-arm drag links. The heaviness and reluctance to self-center suggest that someone has adjusted the box to an excessive degree. Spray a good penetrating oil on the locknut and give it some time to work its magic. There's a balance between enough resistance in the box and being too loose or too tight. The box adjustment will NOT remove slop in the steering wheel.
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Current stable: 1995 E320 149K (Nancy) 1983 500SL 120K (SLoL) Black Sheep: 1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™) Gone but not forgotten: 1986 300SDL (RIP) 1991 350SD 1991 560SEL 1990 560SEL 1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!) |
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My 300SDL was grossly overtightened when I got it, took two hands to park! I backed it off and it was fine. You don't really have anything to lose by trying. If the box is junk, it's junk. If you back it off and everything is fine, that's $300 and several hours of your life you didn't have to spend on it. Just don't go down the rabbit hole of trying to eliminate slop in the wheel, if you have 1" of play, leave well enough alone - the rebuilt/new box will too.
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Current stable: 1995 E320 149K (Nancy) 1983 500SL 120K (SLoL) Black Sheep: 1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™) Gone but not forgotten: 1986 300SDL (RIP) 1991 350SD 1991 560SEL 1990 560SEL 1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!) |
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I did notice that the freeplay is in the coupler. I could move it back and forth by hand while under the car with absolutely nothing happening internal to the box. Is that the normal freeplay? |
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The adjustment to the steering box is to help preload the sector gear to prevent excessive wandering and weaving due to the box being too loose and input slop from the steering wheel. When the box is adjusted too tight, you wind up with a different kind of wander/weave due to the box just staying wherever you turned it instead of self-centering and following the road contour. As I said, there's a fine line between too loose and too tight. Too loose is definitely better and safer than too tight.
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Current stable: 1995 E320 149K (Nancy) 1983 500SL 120K (SLoL) Black Sheep: 1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™) Gone but not forgotten: 1986 300SDL (RIP) 1991 350SD 1991 560SEL 1990 560SEL 1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!) |
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Just be happy you are not driving a 6.9, not possible to adjust the box in situ, you have to remove it and do it on the bench.
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I disagree that 1" is the best you can do on free play at the steering wheel. You can pretty much get it to zero without binding if you are careful on the adjustment in my experience. I have done this successfully with boxes with over 300K on them. Also I believe the OP mentioned finding play in the coupler...to me that means play between the steering shaft and the connection at the steering gear, which would indicate a worn or possibly loose coupler.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
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Grabbing a 19mm crowfoot this afternoon and trying the lock nut again. Can anyone think of any causes for non-centering that wouldn't involve the steering box? I know lower ball joints are usually to blame but those were replaced with my LCAs. I don't mind spending the money on a rebuilt gear box, if that would solve the issue. |
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as for the play, if it is not loose between the shaft and coupler and it is as you say at the coupler then it must be play in the connection of the coupler to the steering box.
__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
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Just to chime in, came across this in the online manual, apparently the maximum amount of play should be no more than approximately 25mm (.98 inches). Not sure if that is a unrealistic range but thought I would post the link. https://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/11832/Resources/201Create/PDF/10011.pdf
Last edited by Babybenz91; 07-22-2020 at 01:23 PM. |
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