Unless you are having 100 degree days, 55-60 in LO blow is rather poor.

Check your evaporator temp. It should beclose to 5 deg C.

__________________
Steve Brotherton
Continental Imports
Gainesville FL
Bosch Master, ASE Master, L1
33 years MB technician

Hi Steve,
The evaporator temp is listed on this post as being "04" on the climate control's diagnostics - I dont have a "04" ... it goes from "03" to "05". I assumed that evaporator temp on my car is "05" which after checking it a few minutes ago is 87 degrees F (30.5 degrees C) with the engine running a couple of minutes.

Sounds like there is still a problem ... so much for that dealerships honesty or knowledge. They supposedly hooked it up to their diagnostic devices and found "nothing" wrong with it. Back to the drawing board ... a different shop/dealership.

It is generally kind of humid in northern Va this time of year - today is no different but we haven't hit a 100 degree day yet - weve been close with 95 degree days with high humidity but that's about it - it has been a cooler than normal, very wet summer so far.

I have included the rest of the numbers spewed out by the ECC diagnostics to see if you see anything else wrong if you wouldn't mind taking a look ...

01 96 degrees F
02 85 degrees F
03 64 - 66 degrees F
05 87 degrees F
06 95
07 14.3
08 127
09 35
10 495
20 00
21 07.0
22 000
23 000
40 03
41 03
42 02
44 6-C
50 62 degrees F
51 58 degrees F
52 35 degrees F
54 OFF

Thanks Steve!

__________________
1998 Black/Black C280 Sport w/ 81,000 miles

My 98 C280 was fine before I took it to get routine maintenance at a dealership (FSS flight came on) ... thats what is bothering me.

I got it back with two new problems - the check engine light came on after fueling it up and the ac was blowing 100% hot air until I pulled the codes and deleted them. The air feels colder but not as cold as before ... I think I need to get a second opinion

__________________
1998 Black/Black C280 Sport w/ 81,000 miles

The intermittent error codes I got from my 95 C280 are:

22, 62, 60, 80, 82

Can anyone tell me what they mean? Thanks.

Anyone please? Thanks.

OK, I looked the numbers up for you, but let use this as an example of the value of such. The info I used: the DM, diagnostic manual is available along with a sea of information for 18 dollars a day at www.startekinfo.com . Just in case you are interested you couldn't pay me 18 dollars to look this up, so if you wish to follow up these codes one must have the rest of the DM.

22 - Evap temp sensor B10/6
62 - AC comp clutch short or open
60 - AC comp clutch something else
80 - switchover valve y11/3 int fault
82 - switchover valve y11/3 short or open

Unless I had a sympton that any of the above explains I would ignore them. Except for the evap temp sensor the rest are common reoccuring codes on most any service short test. i clear cars with no complaints at service with those codes 3-4 times a week. don't get carried away. I attribute many such codes to voltage drops, mostly at starting with weak batteries.

__________________
Steve Brotherton
Continental Imports
Gainesville FL
Bosch Master, ASE Master, L1
33 years MB technician

Thanks very much.

I have a c220 that is doing the same thing but it is hardly even blowing air out whats with that?

My 97 C280's AC had the same problem. I replaced evaporator temp. sensor, located above gas pedal. My AC works like new now. When it was bad the code 5 showed intermittently between CLS and 144. The good one showed 34F. In my opinion, you just go ahead to shoot evaporator temp. sensor. It will cost you $40s online part store, $70s in dealer part.

I wish it were that simple... My sensor shows normal temp 33-35F. I suspect a condenser sensor, if there is one. Or pressure sensor. Does anyone know if there are sensors on the compressor itself??? I notieced that my coolant pump, which is right above it, was slowly leaking for a long time. Could some sensor on the compressor have rusted?

1997 C280 and here's what I got by following the steps in this thread...car "off", ignition "on" :

1. - 84 degrees F
2. - 87 degrees F
3. - 78 degrees F
5. - 78 degrees F
6. - 89 degrees F
7. - 6 degrees 3
8. -84 degrees F
9. - 33 degrees F
10. -12*5
20. - 000
21. - 000
22. - 000
23. - 000
24. - 12*3
40. -03
42.- 02
43. - 6C
50. - 77 degrees F
51. - 65 degrees F
52. - 50 degrees F
54. - OFF

continuous codes - none - end
intermittent codes - 41.6, 41.7, 41.9, 42.1 - end


I will go out here in a second and clear the intermittent codes and see what happens but I'm guessing it's the evap sensor and low refrigerant, right?

somebody PLEASE answer this for me so I can stop sweating on my leather seats..I'm in Texas for crying out loud.

any info is appreciated.

It could be condenser airflow. Check for an operational mechanical fan clutch (if equipped) and electric fan. If those are good, check for debris in the air path through the condenser and radiator.

Be sure that the temperature is set to LO when you measure the vents (set it before entering diagnostic mode). Otherwise you may be getting some reheating of the air.

Educate me -- tell me how you deduce this from my symptoms. I'm just trying to follow along. Seems to me...the pressure would get higher at 3k RPM not lower.

__________________
1994 C280, dark green metallic
105k miles

1991 190E 2.6, Black
191,500 miles
(sold to another forum member)

2003 Chevy Tahoe LT, Redfire Metallic
105k miles

1989 Mustang GT Cobra Convertible
43k miles

23-28 with the compressor off is illogical. Compare this to the actual high-side pressure. You may have a bad pressure sensor.

Or you have a severely overcharged system which also has a restriction at the condenser or dryer. This will cause the pressure to drop when the compressor engages. But it will also likely blow off refrigerant from the compressor pop-off valve.

Without knowing the pressure at the high-side service port, you are guessing.

This is a 1997 W210 E320.
I have #7 reading as 00 ( I think refrig. press.) with engine on or off. Compressor will not turn on. If there was a leak in the evaporator (like my W124) wouldn't the pressure read at last 1 bar, atmosphere?
I'm hoping that the sensor has failed.....anyway to test it?
Also noticed that #10 (fan voltage ?) reading changes as the fan speed selector is changed to hight setting butthe fan speed doesn't change from low, or about 2.3 V.
Does this mean the fan speed resistor is OK or not OK ?
Also, where can I get a list of what all the other readouts refer to and the normal range for each for this car?
There seem to be differences between car models for the same year.
Nice having all the numbers but if I can't relate them to anything it's still all a mystery.
I have alldatadiy but they don't even describe the test proceedure.
Thanks