Hi Guys

Hi Guys,

First the thread was too long then it was too short….trying again

Great forum and great place to buy parts. I started buying from the guys way back in 2000 when I bought my 911. Sold it a couple of years ago and paid off some of the mortgage – and even that did not make my wife happy, so she cheated on me and left. Now I am focused on my daughters my cars and my business…. Ha-ha. I think that is the right order.

Please do not shoot me down in flames as I understand the Ceramic Fuses are well liked in the US. Here down under we have a different view of these fuses and prefer the blade fuses.

I know the Porsche People have kits for converting your small bumper 911 to blade fuses.

Has anyone done or know how to convert a W201 to blade fuses? I did read that the W202 and later cars have blade fuses.

I did leave a comment on another form and that killed the thread.

I am on my 3rd W201 2.6 and love them. A little low to the ground, but they are great.

Crossing fingers this thread is not seen as the work of the devil…

D
Orange AU.

What is the reason why you don't like them?

They are actually better because you only have to take a look at it to see if it's blown. With a blade fuse you either need a tester or you have to pull it out to check it.

The original aluminum ones can corrode but you can just get new ones that don't do that. Or clean up the original ones, put some conductive grease on them and you're good to go.

Swapping a fuse box is not an easy or simple task. And knowing that most running w201's out there have other issues going on with them then if it was my car then I would focus my time and energy on something else.

Thanks for the reply.

Yes, you are correct, it is easy to see the ceramic ones are blown or not. They are hard to get here and I find that over time the contacts get worn and metal contacts fatigue and they do not seat properly. I am not getting good contacts with what I have in the vehicle.

The fact that the A/c and fan fuse keeps blowing, drew my attention to the fuses. It could be an issue with the heater fan, that I will have to investigate. But the fan/Ac fuse sit out board of the main fuse box in a small 2 fuse fuse-holder. The contacts are bad, and I thought getting a small 2 fuse holder with blade fuses would allow me to eliminate one of the possible problems.

Then my mind just took off…. I am a bit (a lot) OCD, and the blade fuses are far neater.

I am really enjoying the car. I have only had it for 5 months, having sold my first W201 2.6 15 years ago, when fitting 2 baby seats in the back was difficult. We moved on to a W123 in the form of a 280TE – that was an impressive car. But the soon to be ex-wrote it off.

You are right, there are a lot of potential things to do, as I bought a car with no service history – but it was at a good price. It really amazes me that this 1989 car that has basically been neglected with 224,000km is still running surprisingly week. I got some spark plugs from Classic MB that arrived this well. We will see what difference that makes.

Still the challenge of the blade fuses intrigues me. It would have been handy of I did not have to re-invent the wheel.

Great food for thought – thank you

D
Orange AU.

You're welcome

Also the proper non-resistor spark plugs are no longer made for this car. I have the same engine as you (3.0 version) and I have to buy new old stock plugs from ebay.

Do you have the updated camshaft in your engine? 1989 was the update year for the M103 engine and the small flange that drives the ignition rotor cracks and can sometimes break off completely on 89 and newer motors. Its a cheap small part to replace if you have the updated camshaft.

I am having trouble posting...says message too short and too long...

Sir – thank you.

Thank you - I know about the non-resister spark plugs. I got a set from Classic MB in California in MB boxes, for less than the equivalent NGK cost at the local shop.

Great information. All I can assume is I have the uprated camshaft - how to I tell? I still have a lot of work.

I am seriously thinking that my parts car has better body work than my daily driver. But until the property settlement goes through, the marital home gets sold and I move to a place with a garage, I am doing bits and spending money with the local mechanic.

D
Orange AU.

look at page 2 of this pdf:

http://www.w124performance.com/service/w124CD1/Program/Engine/103/05-2320.pdf

It gives engine number and vin number breakpoint that happened around 2/89 (Your car is 201.029)

If you have the new camshaft then I strongly suggest you replace or at least inspect the camshaft flange because mine was heavily cracked and about to break off. The good news is that it's a cheap part and easy to replace.

Check out this guys thread:
FYI Broken M103 camshaft rotor adapter distributor rotor bracket 1031580840

Sir – thank you.

OK…call me an idiot, not sure how to read the information.

I have 2 W201 engine numbers:

1989 1: 103942 22 036981 892; and

1987 2: 103942 22 010545

So, is it this small piece that holds the end of the camshaft?

What about the older car? Is it an issue?

I went to the supermarket this morning. Open the boot (I know there is rust on the RHS near bottom of rear window), and there was a piece of rust about the size of my hand on the boot/trunk floor.

Timing could not be worse. Need to sell the house give my wife money she does not deserve and move. (My wife persuaded me to buy a house with no garage – on the basis we had money to build one. Well that money that was 100% mine went on other house stuff)….


D
Orange AU.

Yes your 89 car has the new cam

Your 87 has the old cam

Actually its the chart at page 3

On the old cams these flanges are aluminum and don't break off. But you can't fit an old flange to a new camshaft.

You can see what it looks like in the link I provided and yes its bolted to the end of the camshaft.

When you order a new one make sure its for the 1990+ models

Its not expensive.

Sir – thank you.

I saw the part on Pelican Parts for USD29.25. It is not expensive.

I am getting the sense you know a lot about this M103 engine. This is good.

As I said I am slowly getting around to fixing the obvious things. Already did the water pump, pullies, belt, tensioners in the front of the engine. Plus, the A/c. Today was supposed to be the new spark plugs – but it is bucketing down rain.

Then of course the camshaft flange – that was a great tip – thank you.

Any tips on getting a bit more grunt? I did a bit of searching a while ago and there was nothing that was cheap or not custom. I am not that happy with only 122kW. But saying that it is far more fun than my old car (2005 V6 Camry 157kW and the A/c worked).

Thank you

D
Orane AU.

Australian market M103 had the most retarded timing of all of them. I have a feeling that they don't develop the same power as the US/Euro cars

Look at this chart:
http://www.w124performance.com/service/w124CD1/Program/Engine/103/15-0515.pdf

What is the situation with high octane gas down there? I've never been to Australia.

Anyway if you want more power and you have access to high octane gas then you can remove the reference resistor for the EZL ignition module and advance your timing. But be careful when doing that and always run high octane gas because these motors don't have knock sensors.

look at page 3 of this pdf. That's where it's located on your car.

http://www.w124performance.com/service/w124CD1/Program/Engine/103/15-0520.pdf

Also another tip: What are your alternator voltage regulator brushes like? The regulator with brushes is replaceable.

I've not heard of this issue before. So are you sure it's only '89-up, so there's no need to preemptively replace this part on my Dec '87 production '88 190E 2.6.

BTW I'm running 87 PON fuel in it with no resistor. As long as the engine temp is no more than about 80C and ambient no more than about 70F there's no detonation. Above those temps there is a little transient detonation if I upshift at low speed.

With the more aggressive spark advance map around town fuel mileage is around 24 MPG, and it pulls easily from about 30-35 MPH in fifth (as low as 1200). With the OE 750 ohm resistor fifth wasn't really useable below 45 MPH, and around town mileage barely 20 MPG.

So no resistor both improves fuel economy and low end torque.


Duke

Pre 89 cars don't have this issue. They have a different rotor flange that doesn't crack. The old and new type of flanges don't interchange.

As long as nobody put the upgraded cam and rocker arms in your engine (which happens on early engines) then you should be good.

Of course you will get more mileage and performance without the resistor but you have to understand the risks.

Thanks for the clarification.

Duke