I'm wondering the same things. I have a NOS seal and steel replacement deck lip for under the rear windshield of my 560SEC. When the time comes, it would be great if the cloudiness that has only now appeared within the last year can evaporate after removal.

Martin, I'm also wondering if combining the urethane sealant with the traditional method, or perhaps instead of (the butyl never dries and can some of that section retain water?), could provide a secondary backup in case the new seal starts to shrink in the future.

Hi DrewPT

without any experience and technical knowledge on how to seal off the delaminated areas of our shields properly in order to avoid the fogging... I think it is very difficult to do it successfully.

I am still watching the fogging go away. It takes a very long time and I wonder if it goes away entirely. I am now 6 weeks or so into it.

I will probably buying an aftermarket glass and install it myself. Buying another used glass does not make a lot of sense.
The other option is installing the old glass with the high risk or knowing that the fogging most possibly will come back.

Martin

Now a few weeks later my old glass has cleared up some more.
Check out the picture.
Did no none try to make the old glass work again by sealing the edges properly and reinstall successfully?


Meanwhile I have welded the bad rust holes and coated the new with KBS rustseal. Now I need to epoxy and paint. So I am getting closer to reinstall the glass.

Martin

Attached Thumbnails

 

I've never heard of someone re sealing the edge of the laminated glass before.

__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Well, the hypothesis is:
If the glass is clearing up (moisture between the 2 glass sheets due to the de-lamination) and the moisture can be kept out of the 2 glass sheets permanently by sealing the edge or entry point of the moisture properly (by a proper glass sealer, for instance) then it should keep the moisture and fogging out of the glass.

The real problem is the removal of the moisture/condensation which is present between the glass layers now. Short of putting it in a vacuum chamber/bag I don't see how you can eliminate it completely. Sitting it in the sun wont remove it and actually might be causing further separation. Boston isn't exactly renowned for its dry climate and low humidity.

Good luck.

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― Brian P. Cleary, You Oughta Know By Now

Thanks Mike,
I know this solution (using the old glass and keep the moisture out of it) is far fetched.
Would you just buy an aftermarket replacement glass and get it over with?
If yes, would you have a company install it....with the risk that they just glue it in the frame and not per MB specs with the stay soft sealer?

Or would you install it yourself? ( I think I can do it).

Best, Martin

It all depends on the result you are trying for. Are you restoring the car for concourse purposes, making it a daily driver or what?

If the fogging annoys you or is obstructing your vision then I'd replace it with new. If it is merely an annoyance on a daily driver then I'd have the glass company re-install it (or do it yourself) using the gasket and sealant which you have already purchased.

Swing by your local MB Indy or dealer and ask them who does their glass work if you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself. It is not a super tough job but it can be tricky for just one person the first time you do it.

You've already got the gasket so even if the existing glass cracks you are one step ahead of the game should you have to buy new glass.

__________________
“Whatever story you're telling, it will be more interesting if, at the end you add, "and then everything burst into flames.”
― Brian P. Cleary, You Oughta Know By Now

Thanks Mike,

That window is not a concourse renovation. The 500SEL is a good daily driver. It is in good or even nice shape except for the rear (that window and the trunk lid).
So I just want to get the rear window right.
I'd reinstall the old rear window myself per MB instructions and I'll get a helper.

and before installing I'd probably try to seal around the bottom edges with a 3M product in order to avoid fogging, after the fogging has mostly gone away?

https://www.amazon.com/3M-08693-Urethane-Windshield-Cartridge/dp/B000RW1XCK

Best, Martin

Martin, that looks like a good product with solid reviews on Amazon. I look forward to seeing how it works out for you.

Since it's an adhesive, are you sure it will fully cover the edges of the glass where the moisture has entered? I just wonder if windshield chip repair fluid (maybe it's a sort if epoxy) would be an ideal sealant before the 3M urethane adhesive is applied.

I don't think that windshield chip repair will do the trick because the delaminated ares may move way too much. I think it needs to be a very flexible material and it must stay flexible and seal. Maybe silicone would do this.
I am not sure which product might be best in order to keep moisture out permanently

Martin

I think silicone, while flexible, might reject or be incompatible with the urethane sealant, thus leaving a gap between the two products, and the silicone will eventually fail.

I wonder if a two-part epoxy would be flexible enough? Kent has one on his site that he uses for sealing fuel line joints.

Otherwise, maybe the urethane sealant itself is enough. Another though I have is Miracle Paint, also a urethane product which is flexible. Maybe lightly sand the edges first, which will give it more bite.

I once had that the rear screen fitted after paintwork job. Garage did not seal the rubber with sealant, resulting in milky lower corners and a leak in the trunk after a year.
Had the screen removed and refitted at a reputable glass shop, with sealant all round the rubber lips, as indicated by MB workshop manual. The milky corners cleared up after a while, with slight stain to the glass but not that serious.
You need to keep the moisture or water away from under the rubber lips.

I have a second generation rear windshield in my 1985 w126 body right now. Other than fixing the delamination issue they are identical right down to the connectors for the defrost circuit.

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Of interest to those of us who have/are facing this problem, check out Impalaman's Garage on YouTube--his latest videos are dealing with the rear windshield replacement/rust on his 1984 300SD. He just carefully cut out the existing seal and safely removed the windshield (brightwork came out with it), and found the usual rust (plus relatively fresh metal/paintwork on top of it, indicating an existing shortcut job he'll end up correcting). It will be interesting to see what adhesive he uses with the seal, and any other methods.