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  #1  
Old 07-08-2002, 10:48 AM
sbr
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radiator sealant

Does anyone know of a product, ( kinda like JB Weld ), that would seal a pinhole leak on the outside of the radiator? I've been quoted $200.00- 300.00 to resolder it. But I've heard of some kind of sealer that you apply on the outside that seals her up. Anyone?

sbr
'79 450SL
77,000 miles
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  #2  
Old 07-08-2002, 10:56 AM
Fimum Fit
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I have had excellent results with JBWeld

on a Toyota and several ancient Fords with metal radiator top and bottom tanks, and on an Audi with plastic. The main issue is that you need to get the metal perfectly clean and free of crud and paint or else the JBWeld will only stick as well as the crud over which you applied it. It might not be easy to fix a leak in the fins this way either, although I once succeeded on the heater core of an old Ford Tempo.
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  #3  
Old 07-08-2002, 12:12 PM
sbr
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Thanks Fimum Fit. My leak is at the top right part of the radiator, engine side, in the tiny fins. It spits out coolant onto the windshield washer tank and then puddles in the lower fender. I could clean the green stuff off ( corrosion? ) with baking soda and water using a toothbrush and then try to force the JB Weld into the fins. Might work........I've used JB Weld to fix a leak in a gas tank, worked fine.

sbr
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  #4  
Old 07-08-2002, 01:53 PM
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Location: Niceville, FL
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What's wrong with using something like Barr's Leak?
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'85 500SL (Euro) - 186,000 w/a complete restoration and engine rebuild at 154,000
'95 C280 - 174,000
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  #5  
Old 07-08-2002, 02:13 PM
Fimum Fit
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If the leak is in the fins, I would try Barr's Leaks first

(and specifically that brand) but the most important instruction on the bottle for that stuff is the warning not to overdose it. It is my opinion that most of the complaints about clogged radiators from Barr's Leaks come from people who keep adding more and more when the first dose doesn't do it, even though they warn you that if one isn't enough, you need a more extensive repair job.
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  #6  
Old 07-08-2002, 02:16 PM
sbr
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I've been told not to add stop leak products because there are small valves in the cooling system with strainers on them. I guess they could clog up. That's why I was looking for an external sealer.

sbr
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  #7  
Old 07-08-2002, 02:18 PM
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Join Date: May 2002
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It's hard to make epoxy repairs in there.
You need to get everything very clean and dry, and not damage the other (good) tubes, and access is tight. The leak may even be on a tube in an inner core, which is even harder to reach.
I have had better luck crimping off the leaky tube with needle-nose pliers. You can make multiple crimps on each side of the leak.
If it still leaks, you can cut the tube near the leak, and fold over both ends to make a very tough crimp.
Whether you use the crimp method or the epoxy, you will need to (carefully) sacrifice some of the fins in the area around the leak to gain access.
Keep in mind that one or 2 tubes and some fins is insignificant in the context of an entire radiator.
I once ran 40K additional miles on a radiator after a single 'crimp repair' with no problems. Not a bad 'life extension' for a free repair...

IMHO, those internal stop-leak products are a bad idea. A radiator that is already getting towards the end of its service life does not need additional gunk accumulating in it.
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  #8  
Old 07-11-2002, 12:28 PM
sbr
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I was looking through the yellow pages under salvage, thinking I could luck out and find a used radiator locally, yeah right. Talking to one guy who says his supplier can get me a new radiator for my '79 107 for $459.00. He didn't know the brand of it. I kind of doubt it's a Behr. Also, there's an ad in the Star for a company in Texas that sells new 107 radiators for $245.00. Has anyone had any experience with these radiators ?????

sbr
'79 450SL
77,000 miles
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  #9  
Old 07-11-2002, 12:36 PM
I told you so!
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Motor City, MI
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Have you considered going to a radiator shop that can perhaps recore your radiator?

I vote for avoiding any internal stop leak products...too many potential problems.
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  #10  
Old 07-11-2002, 01:03 PM
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If you want to continue down the used path, try http://www.uneedapart.com/

I've had some good luck with this.
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  #11  
Old 07-11-2002, 01:50 PM
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Location: S.F. Bay Area
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Radiator leak

Don't fool around with the seals, they very seldom work for long and they can gum up things like thermostats. Pull the radiator and take it down to be resoldered. The price they quoted you is probably for dissassembly, boiling it out, rodding it out (Very good thing to do!) and then resoldering the entire thing with a pressure test. Do it right, your engine is worth it.

Check back with the shop to see if all this is included in the quote. Stick with the brass radiators, they always fail gradually not disasterously like the plastic tank ones.

Ben
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  #12  
Old 07-11-2002, 02:13 PM
sbr
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Just spoke with John Olson, publisher of the SL Market Newsletter, which I subscribe to. He gave me the name of a radiator shop he has used here in Mpls. Small independent, low overhead shop, old world craftsman, who know Mercedes. Sounds like what I need. Thanks for your help.......

sbr
'79 450SL
77,000 miles
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  #13  
Old 07-12-2002, 02:11 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Northern Calif. (Fairfield Area)
Posts: 2,225
sbr,

I agree with RIDGE;do it right. Quit being so cheap. You are trying to impress everyone with a MERCEDES on a TOYOTA budget. Have the radiator repaired correctly at a fair price. I sure hope you aren't going to grind on a nice guy who probably needs the money, but will succomb to your hollow pleas for help.

Peter
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