W124 - ball joint popped out of knuckle while changing pinch bolt - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

KJ_Ghukasian · #16 08-04-2022, 11:48 PM

Thank you again for your help. I'll try the alternate method you described.

The problem is related to the distance not closing in my opinion - this stud was already in the knuckle. As stated, I have done the LCA replacement procedure and the whole predicament is related to the later pinch bolt replacement. A simple 5 minute job that turned into this nightmare.

I could put a breaker through the spring perch, however now I have a compressor installed. Putting anything through the perch means I have to get rid of that compressor. The method you suggested is probably a better safety alternative tho.

Phillytwotank · #17 08-05-2022, 12:12 AM

Are you inside a garage? If it were me I would consider bracing something like a 4x4 to the ceiling above to prevent the whole vehicle from lifting and allowing all the force from the jacking to be transferred to closing the gap

KJ_Ghukasian · #18 08-05-2022, 12:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phillytwotank

Are you inside a garage? If it were me I would consider bracing something like a 4x4 to the ceiling above to prevent the whole vehicle from lifting and allowing all the force from the jacking to be transferred to closing the gap

Yes, I am in a garage. That's quite a brilliant idea- let's say I brace a 4x4 to the ceiling (a little tricky but doable) - what do I rest it against and how do I prevent bodywork damage? I imagine simple dampening with foam/blankets will not suffice with the forces at play.

Frank Reiner · #19 08-05-2022, 01:23 AM

KJ:
Inasmuch as the lower arm is reluctant to rise enough to allow the stud to enter the knuckle, can you arrange to lower the knuckle by loosening/unbolting the top of the strut?

Phillytwotank · #20 08-05-2022, 07:17 AM

Maybe the the top of the strut mount

Duke2.6 · #21 08-05-2022, 09:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KJ_Ghukasian

The car was resting on two jackstands, one near the jacking point and the other one underneath the LCA as close to the bushing as possible. Hence I am surprised this happened. Should have compressed the spring regardless I guess.

Are you saying there is a jackstand under the rubber jack point below the rear of the the front fender AND the control arm on each side for a total of four jackstands? If so no wonder you're having the problem.

You need the full front weight of the car on the jackstands under the control arms. Jack the front end from the center cross member and place a jackstand under each control are as far outboard as possible, then lower the front down on the stands. Now the full front weight is on the jackstands and you can separate the ball joints or remove the strut.

I've done this a couple to times, once to replace a strut early on and again to replace the strut dust boots. years later.

Duke

KJ_Ghukasian · #22 08-05-2022, 11:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Duke2.6

Are you saying there is a jackstand under the rubber jack point below the rear of the the front fender AND the control arm on each side for a total of four jackstands? If so no wonder you're having the problem.

You need the full front weight of the car on the jackstands under the control arms. Jack the front end from the center cross member and place a jackstand under each control are as far outboard as possible, then lower the front down on the stands. Now the full front weight is on the jackstands and you can separate the ball joints or remove the strut.

I've done this a couple to times, once to replace a strut early on and again to replace the strut dust boots. years later.

Duke

For clarity, the initial setup for pinch bolt change included one jackstand under the frame rail and another under the LCA, a total of two. I'll also try what you're proposing and will put two jackstand under each LCA as far out as possible.

Zulfiqar · #23 08-05-2022, 12:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KJ_Ghukasian

Further attempts to get the stud into the knuckle have been unsuccessful - I think the jackstand is not close enough to the ball joint - please see attached picture. Regardless of assumed strategy (car on jackstands + jacking up the LCA, jackstand under LCA and lowering the vehicle on the jack, all combined with diagonal jacking to shift the weight forwards), the stud does not go further into the knuckle. I have of course changed the position of the knuckle relative to the stud multiple times, even got it at the right angle, all to no avail.

I am considering two scenarios:

1) Loosen the sleeve further (I did pry it open some and cleaned out the sealant that I have applied during the previous installation) and loosen the LCA bushing bolts - I don't think they exert that much force on the assembly, but l'm theorising that this might give that small bit of upward movement I am lacking here.

2) Jack the LCA up, remove the tyre, put a jackstand much closer to the ball joint and CAREFULLY lower the jack. Obviously, I am a little hesitant about this option.^

Thank you for all the help so far, further suggestions are most appreciated.

According to this picture, you have the spindle hanging at full stroke of the strut which means it wont go further down unless you undo the strut hat from the top.

You need to also move/kick the spindle/tire assembly a bit outwards so the balljoint stud can get into its hole, as of now the wheel is sitting too inwards to the stud and is binding. use a 2x4 to move the wheel a bit outwards and upwards against the strut pressure and then reseat it on the stud, once it aligns it will slide in.

the pinch has a shim in it to prevent overtightening unless yours is missing. you never need to spread the pinch on a W124.

KJ_Ghukasian · #24 08-06-2022, 07:09 PM

Undoing the strut top worked to resolve this situation and I was able to finally wrestle the stud in - once again, many thanks to everyone for all of your great advice and help!

Sugar Bear · #25 08-06-2022, 08:03 PM

Good news...forum input (not mine btw) and your persistence won the battle!