Which is Simplest Way to Separate Axle from Hub? (W211 E350 4Matic) - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

EricSilver · #1 08-22-2022, 11:08 PM

I am replacing my front hub and wheel bearing (without removing spindle from car) and just need enough clearance to move the axle out and away from the hub.

Is it simpler/better to do so by:

1. Detaching the lower ball joint and dropping it out that way? (My current plan.)

2. Detaching only outer tie rod to turn the steering knuckle to push out the axle laterally?

Or should I just do both?

nulu · #2 08-25-2022, 10:59 AM

Do both its easier that way

EricSilver · #3 08-29-2022, 01:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nulu

Do both its easier that way

Thanks very much.

EricSilver · #4 09-15-2022, 01:34 PM

This is all done.

Here is how I did it, on the car, should anyone else need to do it at some point.

Parts, tools and and Sources listed at end.

YouTube videos don't embed/preview here, unfortunately, but they all work.

1. LOOSEN AXLE BOLT. REMOVE WHEEL, ROTOR, CALIPER, ABS SENSOR
* Pry Off Center Cap, Loosen Axle Bolt (XActo blade; 27mm Socket)
* Jack up Car, Set Jack Stands, Remove Wheel (17mm Socket)
* Remove Caliper Assembly & Secure (21mm Socket; Short Bungee cord)
* Remove ABS Sensor & Secure (E10 Torx Socket; Tape)
* Remove Rotor (T30 Torx Socket)
* Remove Axle Bolt (27mm Socket)

NOTES: Loosen the axle bolt with the wheel on the ground. The impact driver did it in about 2 seconds. But you can use a breaker bar just as well.

VIDEO
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wg1wc_7fYmk

2. SEPARATE TIE ROD
Separate with Ball Joint Removal Tool & Sledge 21mm Wrench; Ball Joint Tool; Sledge

NOTES: The ball joint removal tool works well. Hit the *Tool* with the hammer for best results, as it is in direct contact with the tie rod's threaded stud. While you are at it, check the condition of the tie rod. Mine was shot, as shown.

VIDEO
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DDdlRBy3ZoY

VIDEO
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0qWVRxOQlxk

3. SEPARATE BALL JOINT
Support Control Arm with Jack & Separate (22mm Wrench; Ball Joint Remover; Sledge)

NOTES: As with the tie rod, the removal tool works best when hitting it with the hammer.

4. PUSH OUT AXLE
Push axle out and secure

NOTES: My axle came out with thumb pressure. If yours is stuck, partially reinsert the axle bolt and tap with a rubber mallet or small sledge hammer. And yes, I did bend the dust shield at that crazy angle but don't recall why.

Axle freed from hub.

5. REMOVE HUB
Reconnect Ball Joint (without nut)
Extract Hub with puller Hydraulic Puller. I used a 24" Pipe placed through hub and butting against subframe for the Puller's piston to press against with the jaws grabbing the hub flange.

NOTES-1: This extraction method was not originally intended. My plan was to attach the Hydraulic Puller on the backside of the steering knuckle and push the hub out from the back. There was not, however, enough clearance in the wheel well for the tool to fit. But this method worked just fine and was more direct. I did, however, waste about 90 minutes devising it when Plan A proved unworkable.

NOTES-2: Removing the snap ring/Circlip took a while, perhaps because my snap ring plier's prongs were too narrow(?) for such a large, stiff circlip. Spraying and wiping with acetone helped a lot by degreasing and drying the ring.

NOTES-3: The axle boot was not just torn; it was separated and the inner joint slid cheerfully out of its "can," so I removed. You can see the dark cavern in the hub extraction clip. I was lucky that day; the inner joint slid through the strut without fuss. When I did the same thing when I replaced the axle a few days later, three of the six ball bearings fell out.

Set up the Hydraulic Puller

VIDEO
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FCbOQxwJUBw

Hub Out

Clean/Degrease Circlip/Snap Ring to make it easier to remove

6. REMOVE OLD BEARING & INSERT NEW
Press Out Bearing (101mm Sleeve Front; 81mm Drift Back)
Clean & Lube Steering Knuckle Bore
Position New Bearing and Press In. (83mm Drift Front. 101mm Cap Back)
INSERT NEW SNAP RING

Bearing kit bolt greased and ready

VIDEO
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4QSMir_klCk

VIDEO
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u2gMPw4aTtA

Position New Bearing Carefully

Grease Bearing and press in

VIDEO
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xvhr7fKmOI8

New Bearing in

It is critically important that you insert a new snap ring before proceeding. Write it down 10 times and perhaps even tape the new snap rig to your fender, so you cannot miss it. If you start to insert the hub without it, you will not be able to back it out without destroying the new bearing. (Ask me how I know.) I would strongly suggest having a second bearing standing by, as I did. If you don’t need it, just return it for a refund.

New Circlip In

7. INSERT NEW HUB
Lube Bearing & Hub. CAREFULLY Position Hub & Press In (77mm) Inner Race Support Drift on Back; Any snug-fitting Ram on Front

NOTES: It is even more critically important to position the hub perfectly straight before inserting it. Secure it with the ram/receiver as shown, using just enough hand tightening of the nut to hold it in place. Then rotate it. If is skewed or wobbles, straighten it until it rotates straight and true. Then you can hand tighten a little more and check again any misalignment. If all is good, begin cranking the nut with your socket wrench to drive the hub in.

Support Inner Race on back of bearing when pressing in new hub

** You MUST support the inner race on that back of the of the bearing with a drift of the same size or slightly larger. If you do not, and press in the hub in without one, you will destroy the new bearing.**

Setting up Hub to be pressed in

VIDEO
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Yokvz1ojzk

Everything Reassembled

REASSEMBLY
Disconnect Ball Joint. Lube splines. Insert Axle into Hub
Reconnect Ball Joint. (Torque: 50Nm/37ftlb + 60 degrees)
Reattach Tie Rod. (Torque: 55Nm/40.5ftlb)
Grease Axle Bolt & Insert, Pulling axle all the way into Hub.
Reattach Rotor
Reattach Caliper (115nm/85ftlb)
Reattach Wheel (100ftlb).
Lower car and Torque Axle Bolt (70nm/51.63ftlbs + 90 degrees)

PARTS

Hydraulic Puller, in center. Showing it here because there was no clear picture of it elsewhere.

Bearing from Dealer; and from SKF (Less expensive; same item)

Hub From Dealer

Axle Bolt from Dealer

Bearing Press Kit

JOB-SPECIFIC PARTS & SOURCE
Wheel Bearing - Mercedes 2203300051/SKF FW500
Mercedes Dealership ($150.00) / SKF.com ($119.00)

Wheel Hub Assembly - Mercedes 2203370045
Mercedes Dealership ($157.00)

Hub Lock Ring – Mercedes 000472-088000
Mercedes Dealership ($18.00) / SKF.com ($1.50)

Axle Assembly Bolt -- Mercedes - 016-990-13-01
Mercedes Dealership ($14.00)

JOB-SPECIFIC TOOLS & SOURCE
Bearing Removal and Installer Kit
Amazon (I used the FreeTec kit)

Hydraulic Gear Puller
Amazon(I used the NMAZA 10-ton)

Earthquake XT Cordless 1/2 Impact Driver
Harbor Freight

GENERAL TOOLS (used for)
32mm/Socket -- (FreeTec Bearing Kit Nut)
27mm Socket -- (Axle Bolt)
27mm Wrench -- (FreeTec Bearing Kit Bolt)
21mm Socket -- (Caliper Bracket Bolts)
22mm Ratcheting Wrench -- (Tie Rod Nut)
21mm Ratcheting Wrench -- (Ball Joint Nut)
19mm Socket -- (Ball Joint Remover Tool Bolt)
17mm Socket -- (Lug Bolts)
5mm Allen/Hex Wrench(es) -- (To secure Ball Joint when re-tightening nut)
E10 Torx Socket -- (ABS Sensor Bracket Bolts)
E10 Torx Box Wrench -- (Dust Shield Bolts)
T30 Torx Socket -- (Rotor Bolt)
Breaker Bar -- (If you are not using an Impact Driver)
Torque Wrench -- (For tightening bolts Properly on Reassembly)
Snap Ring Pliers -- (To remove & insert bearing snap ring/circlip)
Ball Joint Removal Tool -- (To detach Tie Rod and Ball Joint)
Rubber Mallet, Small Sledgehammer -- (To tap on ball joint removal tool to speed process)
Wheel Chocks, Floor Jack -- (To secure and lift car)
Grease; Liquimoly LM-48 -- (Bearing Kit threads; Hub & Bearing insertion)
Wire Brush/Wheel -- (De-Rusting & De-Griming rusty/grimy parts)
Gloves, Microfiber Cloths -- (General Cleanup)
Brake Parts Cleaner, Acetone -- (General Cleanup)

ESSENTIAL MEASUREMENTS
* 955 prefix items are from the FreeTek kit.

Wheel Bearing: 49mm ID. 88mm OD. 46mm Length
Bearing Removal | Receiver Rams: 955-18 (81mm) Front | 101mm + Plate Back
Bearing Insertion | Receiver Ram: 955-19 (83mm) Front | 101mm Plate, flat side on knuckle, Back
Hub Insertion | Support Ram: Any Fit Front | 955-17 (77mm) Inner Race Support