Yes, watch it while cranking.

__________________
"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer

Ok, got it! Thank you for clearing that up. Stay tune.

I finally got that new CKP (crank position sensor) removed and replaced with the original CKP. The new CKP is too wide in diameter to fit in the hole. It was a struggle to removed it. On the original CKP, testing on the crankshaft position sensor using multimeter position at 2000 ohms (resistance) shows 828 ohms. Is that an acceptable range for the CKP? When I tried to start, on the rpm in the instrument cluster panel, I noticed the needle wiggles a bit on the 0 rpm. Does that mean the CKP is working? I suspect the issue is fuel delivery system failure.



I rechecked the electrical/power connections to the fuel pump relay. The pump relay showed 85, 30, 87 and 86. Using the light tester connecting clamp to battery terminal post positve, 85 and 87 connector holes were light up with the igntion turned off (no lights on the instrument cluster panel). Moving to battery terminal post negative only 30 showed up lighted. Neither battery positve or negative terminal post on the 86 connector hole did not light up. Does that mean the fuel pump relay connector is working?

Any comments, feedback/advice is greatly appreciated. Stay tune for further updates.

dm,

I THINK that means the CPS is working and I THINK you could jumper pins 30 and 87 to jumper/bypass the relay and see if it starts.

Good luck!!!

__________________
"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer

Update:

I put a cut up coat hanger wire (resistance tested good) bypass fuel pump relay on pins 30 and 87 holes/connectors. See the picture.

With the ignition turned on, I checked the two wires connectors to both fuel pumps to determine if there is any voltage going through using multimeter. Nothing shows up. However, checking the resistance on both fuel pumps (electrical 2 wires connected to the fuel pumps) with igntion on, it showed at 2000 ohms, 005 resistance at the front and the rear fuel pump by the fuel tank shows at 2000 ohms, 006 resistance.

I, then, proceeded to ignition start and the next thing happened was the wire on the bypass fuel pump smoking. Also, smoke coming out of the 30 amp thin fuse box (see picture) and under the fusebox near the oil filter. A little electrical fire started and I put out the electrical fire under the fusebox with water. I checked and rechecked to make sure the fusebox area is clear of any smoke/fire and elsewhere. Wow, that is something!!!

Any chance of the issue above repairable? I have another identical 1994 E320 wagon without the ASR. I can swap parts that needs to be replace to make my 1994 Mercedes wagon working again. I first need to know what to do next. Did anyone out there have this similar experience? If so, how did you repaired/fixed this problem? This current issue is way way out of my league of knowledge to fix/repair. Comments, advice/feedback is greatly appreciated.

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Sorry to hear this. Look for signs of a short circuit e.g., chewed wiring particularly near the fuse box . Has the car been sitting outdoors for extended periods?

Good luck!!!

__________________
"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer

Hi Sugar Bear, yes, the car has been sitting outdoors for years. There are rabbits, squirells on my property. Possibly some animals were under the car and chewing the wires. I am thinking about short circuit, too, somewhere. How to remove that fuse box so I can look over/under the wiring. I tried to research for fusebox removal from the car so I can inspect all the wiring near the left driver side under the hood. Are there any removal instructions for the fusebox and others as well that are connected with the wiring. Graphic pictures will definitely help. These wiring diagrams that I had seen does not really help.

Sugar Bear, I sent you a PM. Did you get it?

At this point, it seems to me I have to do more research/troubleshooting on the electrical wires/fire issues under the fusebox area. I did some research and so far, I have not been able to find anything related to the issue. How to repair and/or replace electrical wires, etc., to make the mercedes to run again. How to remove the parts located near that location and/or is it possible to repair? Once I am able to resolve these problems (that is a big IF) and if all goes well and the engine crank but not start without any electrical issues/fires, then I will do the engine compression test. I should have done an engine compression test prior to the current issue. I do have another 1994 Mercedes E320 wagon parts and could do a swap, if needed.

I am debating myself whether to continue working on this mercedes wagon or to give it all up and sell/trade both 1994 Mercedes E320 wagons. In fact, both wagons are now in the classified ads section For Sale/Wanted/Trade/Giveaway:

https://www.benzworld.org/threads/trade-i-am-parting-2-1994-mercedes-e320-wagons.3108002/


Any comments/advice/feedback is greatly appreciated. Thanks to all for reading and posting comments on this thread.

Today, I sold both 1994 Mercedes E320 wagons. It has been an interesting and challenging experiences with these two wagons. I am grateful to all who posted theirs comments and sharing their knowledge throughout the entire time I spent here on this forum.