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#1
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Rebuilding 300E suspension
I am slowly replacing worn suspension components on my '86 300E. So far I have done front struts, rear shocks, diff. mounts, thrust arms, idler arm bushings, sway bar bushings, and steering damper. Here's what I am faced with now. My mechanic has given a list of what he thinks should be replaced. All prices are parts and labor:
center drag link - $145 both tie rods - $165 complete control arm with new bushings and ball joints - $713 alignment of course - $100 Right ball joint and tie rod both have torn boots, so I'm in at least that far. This would be my first "big" repair and am trying not to get queasy. Any thoughts? Do these prices seem reasonable? Blake '86 300E 256K |
#2
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$713 sounds high for a control arm rebuild or replacement, unless that includes both sides, in which case it's a good deal.
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1986 300E 5-Speed 240k mi. |
#3
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Blake,
I'm not sure if you replaced the struts and shocks or if it sounds that way in your post via words. However, If you have enough mechanical ability to replace those, the center link or drag link as some call and the tie rods should be no match. It is a fairly easy job. you will just need to rent the tool. Good luck
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Brandon 2008 S550 1957 Dodge D100 1967 VW Microbus 21 Window 2001 Suburban 2004 Beach cruiser bicycle -----------------GO DUKE!----------------- "It cannot be emphasized too strongly or too often that this great nation was founded not by religionists, but by Christians; not on religion, but on the Gospel of Jesus Christ. For that reason alone, people of other faiths have been afforded freedom of worship here." Patrick Henry 1776 |
#4
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Yes, the $713 is for both sides. I did the front struts and rear shocks, they were not hard at all.
Is the tool I would need a generic tie rod separator for the drag link and tie rods? Thanks for the replies. Blake '86 300E 256K |
#5
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A generic tie rod separator will work for all of the balljoints in the rack.
I really do not like the 'pickle fork' type because they do so much damage, but I suppose that is ok if they are being replaced. The '2-arm puller' type of separator is very effective, and does no damage to the boots. This rack bits are a good DIY project. Try to get the alignment close enough to drive to the alignment shop by marking everything before disassembly. The Control arm rebuilds are a bit more involved. I have participated in rebuilding 6 of them this year, and now have the process down to a science, but I would not classify this as an easy job.
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1986 300E 5-Speed 240k mi. |
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