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  #16  
Old 09-04-2002, 09:54 AM
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Regular

For what it's worth, I have always run regular, wether it was in my 1988 mustang 5.0 or my 1989 nissan sentra. Of course I had the inevitable guilt attack and tried premium in the stang, no difference.

My Nissan has 180,000 miles (just turned yesterday) and runs as well today as when it was new. The motor has never been opened.

As I read through this post I saw little evidence that regular adversly effects my vehicle.

As I understand, techs please help, the computer will take care of adjusting fuel, air mixture to compensate and manage the performance of the motor.

I did read where regular can negatively impact the cat-converter?

As I think most agree the most important additive you can put in your car is clean oil every 3 months or 3000 miles (not sure why 3 months?)

Thanks,
Joel
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  #17  
Old 09-04-2002, 11:50 AM
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I have 3 MBs that require premium (for that matter, the modified VW engine drinks the same).

If that's what is labeled on the gas filler lid, so be it.

While the benefits of premium may fall along the lines of "snake oil", I'd rather just follow the manufacturer's recommendation and do such. The expense is justifiable for peace of mind, and a lot cheaper than whatever potential damage to engine components that can result otherwise, theoretical or not.

It's amazing how many here will gripe about why our cars require fuel that costs 30 cents or more per gallon than the regular stuff (at least in the US), but don't flinch at spending $$$ getting euro lights, pricey rims and tires, stereo upgrades, etc. etc.
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  #18  
Old 09-04-2002, 01:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by G-Benz
...It's amazing how many here will gripe about why our cars require fuel that costs 30 cents or more per gallon than the regular stuff (at least in the US), but don't flinch at spending $$$ getting euro lights, pricey rims and tires, stereo upgrades, etc. etc.
well put.
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  #19  
Old 09-04-2002, 04:20 PM
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I do flinch and therefore don't buy pricey rims, euro lights, tires, stereos, etc...

I am at piece of mind knowing that my autos are more than capable running on a lower octane without any damage whatsoever to any components.

That's not to say that there are some crappy blends without any detergents. Do your due-diligence.

BTW:

The auto companies spend lots of $$$ to get .25 - .5 mpg more out of a car. By requiring the buyer to use high octane is a freebie for them.
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'05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles
'86 300SDL - 360,000 miles
'85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold)
'89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold)
'85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold)
'98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold)
'75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold)
'83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-(
'61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes
2004 Papillon (Oliver)
2005 Tzitzu (Griffon)
2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba)

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  #20  
Old 09-05-2002, 10:21 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Dallas
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Here is car and drivers review on the issue:

http://www.caranddriver.com/xp/Caranddriver/features/2001/november/200111_feature_gasoline.xml?keywords=octane
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  #21  
Old 09-05-2002, 10:56 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2002
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Thanks for the link. I value only hard data... not testimonials.

I used to have a 57 Chevy with an L-6 engine. At the base of the distributor was an an adjustment for octane. You could move the distributor until the pointer was at the octane you were using at the time. Basically it was just a gauge that allowed you to advance or retard the ignition timing.
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  #22  
Old 09-05-2002, 11:02 AM
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<>

I have a 190SL that has a knob on the dash that turns the dist from in the cabin.
The manual says to go up a 15 degree grade in top gear and adjust back from 'Pinking" !!!!

PINKING - gotta Love it,,,
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  #23  
Old 09-05-2002, 02:49 PM
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Pinking! LMAO!!

Quote from the Car and Driver article:

"Cheapskates burning regular in cars designed to run on premium fuel can expect to trim performance by about the same percent they save at the pump. If the car is sufficiently new and sophisticated, it may not suffer any ill effects, but all such skinflints should be ready to switch back to premium at the first sign of knock or other drivability woes. "


...
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  #24  
Old 09-05-2002, 03:22 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 57
Don't buy a 40K car if you can't afford to spend an extra 20 cents a gallon on running it. As a fraction of the repair costs on an MB, it is insignificant anyway, right?

A mechanic I know (he has had an MB shop for 30 years in NY) swears by premium fuel - says if you open up an engine past 200K miles, the difference is very clear. Apart from the slight loss in performance and mpg, which evens out some of the price gap anyway.

Aviation fuel is 120 octane sometimes - heck, they could save a lot if they switched to 87!!
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  #25  
Old 09-05-2002, 05:57 PM
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If I determine that the rediculous amount that is charged for premium at the pumps does not make up for the increase in fuel economy, why am I called a skinflint or cheapskate?

I'll save my money, and buy a detergent every once and a while. To no ill effect on the engine or components.

Aviation fuel is 100 low lead and there are conversion that can be made for using auto gas.
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Michael LaFleur

'05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles
'86 300SDL - 360,000 miles
'85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold)
'89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold)
'85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold)
'98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold)
'75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold)
'83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-(
'61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes
2004 Papillon (Oliver)
2005 Tzitzu (Griffon)
2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba)

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  #26  
Old 09-06-2002, 03:52 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 57
My previous ride was a 92 Taurus SHO. I tried regular for 2 tanks early on. No pinging, but there was a noticeable performance hit. Not huge, but noticeable.

My car ownership mantra has always been "buy the best you can afford". (say 3 times in crossed-leg Yoga position for effect) It has never let me down - yet.

Brian
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