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  #1  
Old 09-09-2002, 05:53 PM
clamman1021
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380 SE- difficult/no start, then dies

I have read through many threads and tried replacing fuel pump relay, OV relay....neither worked.

I hear the buzz of the fuelpump at start. I believe it is an electrical problem...any suggestions?

Thanks.
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  #2  
Old 09-12-2002, 10:10 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Alaska
Posts: 10
380 se no start

Mine just quit after start up while warming up .
Wife said it sounded as if it ran out of fuel
had fuel, tried a few more times no fire just cranks.
Checked spark from coil nothing
changed ignition module brought everything back to life.

This is a common problem as I hear with this car 380se.
Check at a salvage yard for a used one $40-$70

That was my problem.
Hope it doesn't take away from the joy of the MB
__________________
83 300 tdt wagon 230,000 mi
85 380 se 31,000 mi
85300 tdt wagon 90,000 mi
84 380 sl 57,000 mi
84 380 se 41,000 mi

sportkar1@hotmail.com
Fairbanks, Alaska
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  #3  
Old 09-12-2002, 10:23 PM
clamman1021
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Thanks, Sportkar....I am going to replace the coil first...and then,if that is not it...I will try to locate a used ignition module.

I appreciate your help and enjoy my 380SE...when it is working!!
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  #4  
Old 09-13-2002, 12:53 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Alaska
Posts: 10
380 se won't start

My coil was not getting the signal because the module was bad. My coil was good.
I would try the module first and a used one or if you know a shop where you could borrow one to try and also first check continuity on the green wire to the distributor before you go to the module, these go bad and make sure you have good connections,check coil wire also.

These are few things you should check and they will help narrow down the
problem.

Good luck.
__________________
83 300 tdt wagon 230,000 mi
85 380 se 31,000 mi
85300 tdt wagon 90,000 mi
84 380 sl 57,000 mi
84 380 se 41,000 mi

sportkar1@hotmail.com
Fairbanks, Alaska
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  #5  
Old 09-13-2002, 04:25 PM
clamman1021
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Posts: n/a
I just ordered an ICU- $240- and I will replace coil and ICU tomorrow. Thanks for your help!
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  #6  
Old 09-17-2002, 11:03 PM
clamman1021
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Posts: n/a
Wehrle ICU vs. Bosch ICU

Wow! The physical difference in these two units is amazing! Does anyone know if the replacement Wehrle is any better than the OEM Bosch part???

Guess I 'll find out!
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  #7  
Old 09-18-2002, 05:24 PM
clamman1021
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Posts: n/a
DEPRESSED FROM BUYING PARTS WITHOUT A CURE!

Well, after a new: 1) fuel filter; 2) plugs; 3) distributor and rotor; 4) OVP relay; 5) FuelPump Relay; 6) Coil; and 7) Ignition Control Unit....my car has now been towed for the second time in two months to the garage.

I am learning to hate Mercedes and thinking that my Chevy Pickup is the only way to go!

I give up!
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  #8  
Old 09-19-2002, 08:53 AM
Moderator
 
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Gainesville FL
Posts: 6,844
There are many techniques to fixing cars. Your technique s**ks.

I need to be harsh because I see this so often. You seek help to guess at what is your problem. If this has to be your technique of choice then I can be of no help.

If you wish a scientific approach there are many, but the first requirement is to find out what is missing! Is your problem fuel? Or is it ignition? Since you don't have the proper equipment (ignition scope/fuel pressure gauge) you will have to be creative.

You might take an old spark plug and widen the gap and hook a plug wire to it laying it on the metal of the engine while someone cranks the car. You will get a qualitative NOT quantitative answer.

To guess at fuel pressure I would suggest pulling one injector attached to its pipe and bypass the fuel pump relay and depress the airflow plate. The injector should throw an appropriate stream of fuel regulated by how far you have depressed the airflow plate.



****NOTE**** doing this test fills the intake with fuel SO the test should only be done briefly**********Note fire hazard also.
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Steve Brotherton
Continental Imports
Gainesville FL
Bosch Master, ASE Master, L1
33 years MB technician
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