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  #1  
Old 09-15-2002, 07:07 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2002
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Check engine light on a E320 94

Hi I have a E320 from 94 and the check engine ligth is on, I want to know how to check for the check engines codes and what the codes mean. Thank you in advance
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  #2  
Old 09-15-2002, 07:48 PM
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Location: Southern California, U.S.A.
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You have an LED display unit in your engine compartment, on the passenger side near the firewall. Press the button for 3 seconds (with the engine off and the ignition in the on position) and release. Count the number of flashes for the fault code. One blink indicates no codes present. Repeat the code retrieval by again depressing the button and count the blinks a second time. If you get the same number then there is only one code. If you get a different number of flashes, then you have more than one code. Keep repeating till all codes are read. This is indicated by the repeat of the first code received.

Here is a site which shows the fault codes and what they mean:

http://www.batauto.com/MB/

For what it's worth, there are two very common fault codes for our engine - #5 and #26.

If you are able to pull the codes, post what you get, and we might be able to help you. Both problems have relatively easy fixes.

And remember, the check engine light is only for emissions related issues.
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Paul S.

2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior.
79,200 miles.

1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron".

Last edited by suginami; 09-15-2002 at 07:53 PM.
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  #3  
Old 09-15-2002, 09:26 PM
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Thumbs up

I check the code and it is the #5 code, how can i fix that (code 5 is EGR inoperative) and also how can I reset the check engine ligth.
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  #4  
Old 09-15-2002, 11:55 PM
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It's been a while since I did it, but after you've checked the codes, wait at least two seconds, then you hold the button down for six seconds. Each code must be erased individually.

If it doesn't work, contact Arthur Dalton. He is the fault code guru.

Code #5 is probably the most common fault code on this engine. It thinks your EGR valve is stuck shut.

There was a TSB on the EGR valves, and the older valves had a tendency to stick, so it might be a good idea to install a new one.

Additionaly, the hot inlet pipe to the intake manifold gets clogged up with carbon from the egr vapors.

Stevebfl, Steve Brotherton, wrote an article that is posted on this site:

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/EngineControls

Scroll down to the end of the article. There are pictures. You clean out this egr tube with something like a speedometer cable attached to a drill motor.

I'm willing to bet this tube is completely blocked. It should be cleaned out at intervals of 60,000 miles.
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Paul S.

2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior.
79,200 miles.

1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron".
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  #5  
Old 09-16-2002, 08:02 AM
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Read this thread - no one is immune to having to clean this pipe out every now and then.

How do I fix high NOx levels.
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  #6  
Old 09-16-2002, 10:01 AM
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Location: Florida / N.H.
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<<
There was a TSB on the EGR valves, and the older valves had a tendency to stick, so it might be a good idea to install a new one.

Additionaly, the hot inlet pipe to the intake manifold gets clogged up with carbon from the egr vapors. >>

Just to add to Paul and Engs excellent info:

As both of these are troublesome CE/code #5 trippers , There is a difference in the diagnosis/complaint..

The pipe blockage decreases the egr air flow , while the egr valve [ sticking open] does not shut air flow off [mostly at idle].
One can usually tell which one [ short of pulling hand vac to egr test ] by observing the engine idle.
The egr sticking will show an intermittant rough idle...
where-as, the blockage will not show any driver complaint
except the CE lamp.
I do have the TSB info on the EGR valve change, if needed
[ email me for a jpg]
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