Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog Tech Info Tech Forums
  Search our site:    
 Cart  | Project List | Order Status | Help    

Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum > Technical Information and Support > Tech Help

LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 10-03-2002, 09:01 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Puerto Rico
Posts: 103
Unhappy 83 380 SEL Brake problems, Help

Hi I have a friend who have a 83 380 SEL and have brake problems. He change the brake master cylinder, the pads are new, he also have new brake lines, but the car wont stop if you hit the brake pedal. also note that the booster if fine because the pedal feels fine. And if you hit the brake pedal hard only the front brake works and if he just brake normal the car wont stop. The pedal feels fine and do not go all the way to the floor.Thanks in advance
Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2002, 09:05 AM
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Puerto Rico
Posts: 103

Please if anyone know I need help. Thank you
Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2002, 11:16 AM
MikeTangas's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: So. Cal
Posts: 4,430
Was the master cylinder bench bled prior to installation and were the brake properly bled upon completion of master cylinder and hose replacements?

Make sure when bleeding the brakes that you keep the resevoir topped up, other wise the rear chamber will run dry and you'll do nothing but pump air to the rear brakes.
Mike Tangas
'73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP
Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72

'02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis

2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon least its a diesel

Non illegitemae carborundum.
Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2002, 12:23 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Puerto Rico
Posts: 103

The master cylinder was bleed before installation and we bleed all 4 corners. Also the car have this problem before we change the parts.
Thanks in advance
Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2002, 08:08 PM
Provo Spain?
Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 656
When you got the new MC did it come with a new gasket that goes between the booster and the MC? If it didn't did you remember to pull the old one off and install it on the pushrod?

I did that once. My brakes were worse, and my idle would go up when I pushed the brake. It took me about half an hour to figure out what the hell was going on!
1994 C 280 117.5k, White (Good as new)
1997 Toyota Camry 149k Miles (Not so pretty anymore)

1990 190e 2.6 95k (Sold-Should not have)
1981 240d Stick ??? Miles...sold
Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2002, 08:22 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Evansville, Indiana
Posts: 8,150
There are several possibilities here.

First, I would jack up one corner at a time and see if the brakes are doing anything. If you have good pedal and nothing happens at the wheels, you have either scary bad brake hoses (check for swelling) or bad calipers.

A classic "neglect" syndrome on MB brakes is to fail to replace the rotors when they get thin -- about every third pad change. This lets the backing plate on the pads hit the cross spring, and cock, since they can only move at the bottom. Eventually, they stick, and cause the calipers to overheat. This makes the brakes even worse -- no pad at all.

I cannot imagine that you got the pads in wrong on this car, so I think we can ignore that possibility.

How hard was it to move the pistons back? Very difficult, or did the just slide back with a gentle pry?

Did you clean all the rust and brake dust out of the pad slot and lubricate the back and sides of the backing plate with antiseize?

Do you have OEM pads (don't use aftermarket ones, they are endless trouble).

Did you do front and rear pads?

Are the rotors in decent shape -- that is, flat, or mostly flat, no bit waves and no evidence of the center being thinner than the outer edge?

Were the old pads touching the antirattle cross spring?

It is entirely possible that the rotors a worn in a taper if the old pads were up against the cross spring, so that the new pads are only touching at the outer edge. If this is the case, you should replace the rotors, they are too thin to machine.

I can help more with more info!

1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
Reply With Quote


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:47 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2016, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2011 Pelican Parts - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page