I didn't think the subframe bushings were hard at all. Installation and extraction of the mounts is a challenge if its the first time you've done something like it. You'll need to rig up bolts with nuts and washers OR pay for dealer tools $525-$690. The only things you'll need to disconnect are the rubber on the back of the exhaust and the drain tube that goes thru the subframe. The mounts themselves are sold as:
front kit including hardware $116 list (for diesel, gas probably similar)
rear - need two ($24/ea) and hardware kit (for new washers, bolts) $8
The dealer shop time is 2 hrs rear, 8 hrs front on the bushings. I'm curious what your independent will charge.

Brian

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Brian Toscano

I experienced what sounds like the same problem on my 1986 300E. As a simple test I sprayed some CRC or WD40 into the joint. This cured the problem for a day or two. When thr CRC dried up the problem returned. Replacing the lower joints cured the problem.

TCG

the rear torsion bar links do not show wear even when they start to "clunk". i just replaced mine because of the clunk but some looseness i thought came from the front disappeared as well. its a $10 part and takes less than an hour to replace.

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joE
1993 300e-2.8 - gone now <sigh>
"Do not adjust your mind, it's reality that's malfunctioning"
http://banners.wunderground.com/bann...L/Key_West.gif

Whoa -- I followed your advice and thoroughly soaked the ball joints with WD40. The car drove beautifully. I'm calling my mechanic tomorrow to schedule getting the ball joints replaced. It's amazing what a difference the WD40 made.

Thanks,
Mike

Quick question -- do I need to get the alignment done (again) after the ball joints are replaced?

Yes, at least have it checked anytime the suspension is touched.

-brian

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Brian Toscano

Now this is really frustrating. I had the car (1993 300E) at the mechanic today to get the ball joints replaced. It didn't happen. I got a call from him that the ball joints the parts supplier sent were nothing like the ball joints on the car. He called a couple other parts suppliers, and a couple other mechanics he knows/trusts (including one at a Mercedes-Benz dealer) and, as far as he could tell, the ball joints aren't replacable without replacing the entire lower control arm. And with what it would cost, he advised against doing it.

Does this sound right?

-Mike

Sheesh! Take it someplace else. The ball joints are DEFINITELY replaceable.

-brian

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Brian Toscano

Any suggestions for where I should take the car? I'm in the Seattle area.

Check with your local dealer. Don't risk an unknown independant to do the work correctly - you may not know right away if what they did was good or not. Been there, done that. In my case, it would have been MUCH cheaper and eaiser in the LONG RUN to pay the dealer who diagnosed the problem - but at that time, it was my first visit with my first MB and I did not know if they were trying to rip me off.

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Brian Toscano

I've been doing some searching and I'm having the same problem. I replaced the power steering pump, replaced tie rods, damper, drag link, rebuilt the idler arm, and everything else but the damn lower ball joints. I don't have any leaks and the power steering pump has fluid with no bubbles or whining. I've got about 300K miles on the odometer.

Other than the lower ball joints and the steering box adjustment (CW to loosen), is there any other possible causes to steering resistance? I have to turn the wheel just to staighten out the vehicle when exiting a turn.

I have a 1990 300D W124.128.
Thanks!

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James
Jet Engine Design Engineer with a car problem
(I just wish it was curable!)

1990 300D 294K miles
1987 Vette 101K miles (4+3)
2003 HD Electra Glide 65K miles
1992 Ford F150 300 I6
2000 Suzuki TL1000R Human Missle Machine!

Bump -- I am having the same problem. Have you had any luck sorting this out? Thanks!

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1992 300D 2.5T
1980 Euro 300D (sadly, sold)
1998 Jetta TDI, 132K "Rudy"
1974 Triumph TR6
1999 Saab 9-5 wagon (wife's)

wow, lots of parts replaced. If all the steering and suspension are verified good then have an alignment shop check the chassis alignment. Over the life of the car, it may have been hit or hit a curb or big pot hole to miss-aligned the mounts to the chassis.

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'88 300TE, 175k, black RENNTech 3.6L Recaro C's AMG 1 SOLD
'92 500E, 110k, Spruce green, stock SOLD
'94 E320 Cabriolet, 130k, E500 wheels, Emerald green SOLD
'94 E320 Cabriolet, 110k, black, stock, SOLD
'88 300TE, 229k, dark grey, SOLD
'90 300CE, 212k, white, new paint, SOLD
'91 300E, 209k, white, rebuilt head SOLD
'74 914-6, grey, 2.7L 325hp twin turbo Audi conversion

You could look online-

Ball joints for some models are replaceable- some are welded in. With the age, your not saving much doing bushings + ball joints at a shop versus installing new lower control arms. If the ball joint is replaceable-dealership will have them in-stock and last times I got them-much cheaper than buying aftermarket.

Benzs ride quality and handling depends a lot on rubber. Experience can judge bushing with a prybar + how centered they are on the shaft/bolt. But expect degredation starts around 7-8 years on rubber parts.
Alignment requires a spreader bar on the W124 chassis. It pushes the wheels apart like driving down the highway. You'll need to find a shop which has one or the dealership. Even with that, there is a huge range of "in spec" which don't handle or drive well. Spec range is large and it takes some experience with these cars to get them right... mine needs more toe-in.
Michael