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  #1  
Old 10-27-2002, 10:13 AM
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Location: SW Chicago Suburbs, IL
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How Can I Fix This Oil Leak? Pix Attached

My 87 300SDL is leaking oil from the plug in the attached pic. I was thinking it may have something to do with the timing chain tensioner, so I haven't messed with it yet.

Is this something that has a seal or can I just take a socket and tighten it?

It is dripping about 6-8 drops on the garage floor each night.

Thanks!



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Lance Allison
Lance@LanceAllison.com

Sold: 1987 MB 300SDL, 320k miles, Astral Silver, Blue Leather, all books and records from day one.

Totalled: 1998 VW Jetta TDI, 488k miles, Classic Green/Gray Leather, loaded, E-Codes, "Slightly" modded, "Slightly" faster than stock, arrived 11/07/1997.

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  #2  
Old 10-27-2002, 02:08 PM
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That is the chain tensioner, and probably the o-ring seal is shot. I don't know how to replace this one, I'm not sure if it is a ratcheting type or not. Some of the "real" techs can help.

Should be a simple R&R.

Makes me think I need to check mine -- too much oil on the engine last oil change, all from that area.

Peter
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  #3  
Old 10-28-2002, 08:35 AM
it leaks, its german
 
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The simplist fix would be replace the tensioner and seal. (603's of certian era's had t-chain issues as well)



Joe
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  #4  
Old 10-28-2002, 05:40 PM
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The chain and tensioner are about 70k old. What would be the easiest way of changing this tensioner? Any tips...how about special tools?
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Lance Allison
Lance@LanceAllison.com

Sold: 1987 MB 300SDL, 320k miles, Astral Silver, Blue Leather, all books and records from day one.

Totalled: 1998 VW Jetta TDI, 488k miles, Classic Green/Gray Leather, loaded, E-Codes, "Slightly" modded, "Slightly" faster than stock, arrived 11/07/1997.

MBCA Member, Chicago Region
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  #5  
Old 10-28-2002, 07:22 PM
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No need to replace the tensioner Lance. Replacing the seals will fix the leak. By the way, they're not o-rings. They're aluminum and various sizes of this type seal can be found elsewhere on the vehicle ( transmission cooler lines, torque converter drain plug ). I believe there is even an old service bulletin pertaining to this problem. Good luck
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  #6  
Old 10-28-2002, 08:35 PM
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A new tensioner is less than $45 from FastLane and I believe it comes with new seals -- aluminum crush seals as ILUVMILS stated. I don't know if you just pop it in or if you have to prime it in SAE 10W oil as it says in the manual.

I don't see the seals listed in FastLane so give Phil a call.

Sixto
91 300SE
87 300SDL
83 300SD
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  #7  
Old 10-28-2002, 09:37 PM
fredddd
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oil leak

Have a leak in the same area on my 380SL. Thought it was coming from my oil temp. sender next to the tensioner[that's dry] because the ceramic end was loose. I replaced it, but oil still comes from the same area. Neither the old or the new one had a gasket. Is this the way it should be?
Thanks.Don
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  #8  
Old 10-29-2002, 04:08 PM
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Come to think of it there are two sealing rings; one between the tensioner and the cylinder head and one between the sealing plug and the body of the tensioner (between the small hex and the big hex).

If the leak at the head interface, then replace that seal. You'll have to prime the tensioner as described in the shop manual before it goes back in the head.

If the leak is between the small hex and big hex, the tensioner will have to come apart. I wouldn't do it in-situ because there are spring loaded parts waiting to get lost behind the sealing plug. The manual says nothing about taking the tensioner apart other than that one of the internal components was upgraded in late 87.

Sixto
91 300SE
87 300SDL
83 300SD
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