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  #1  
Old 10-28-2002, 10:47 PM
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Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 161
300E Serp. Belt Tensioner (tensioner idea)

A few months ago I posted a theory about how to adjust the tensioner when removing the tensioner, (but not replacing it),as you might do when doing a new water pump or othe front engine repairs.

I decided that since the tensioner arrow did not come back fully to the end of the scale during removal I should mark that spot and re-assemble it starting at that point. Several people said that it would not work since the "book" MBCD says to start at one end of the scale and tighten to the end.

To make a long story shorter, It is working just fine... My theory of tension has worked out very good so far, 4K miles. No signs of any belt slippage with or without AC or steering loadings, etc.
If you are going to do your WP or dissemble the front cover and are planning to re-use your belt tensioner assembly you might want to re-read the posts I put up about how to tension the used units so as not to over-tighten them and shorten their life or other bearings, (Alt. and idler pulley and Water Pump, etc.)
If you use the standard instructions for installing a new tensioner you may have the whole thing under too much tension.

Admittedly a few months does not fully prove out a theory, but I did promise to report back to the group --- since several folks said I was in error.

Thanks for this great resource!

DanielW
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  #2  
Old 11-26-2002, 06:20 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Warminster, PA
Posts: 24
Noise from the fan, pulleys, or tensioner.

I am trying to do a search on your advise on how to tighten re-used tensioner or pulley and I can't find it. I have a noise coming from the front of the car, also the fan hits one of the lower pulleys under the power pump pulley.. not sure if that is the idler pulley. Right now I am not sure but the follwoing seem to be the candidate..fan clutch, idler pulley, and the belt tensioner. Also I noticed a play on my fan from side to sideis this normal? Need help on this.
Thanks in advance

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Edgar
Warminster, PA
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  #3  
Old 11-26-2002, 07:37 PM
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Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 161
Search on "DanielW"

Perhaps the easiest way to re-find these posts is to search on my screen name "DanielW". That should pull up my recent posts I believe the tensioner idea is one of the first entries which will come up.

As to the fan rubbing the tensioner pulley (the one directly under the Water Pump pulley), I think there are two possible reasons which might allow these parts to touch. 1. the fan clutch has a lot of play in it, and must be replaced. 2. the belt tensioner is shot and must be replaced. The tensioner is a rubber bushing which is twisted to provide belt tension. Over time and heat they break down and must be replaced. One reason they break is that the shock or shock bushings go bad first and this allows too much movement for the tensioner unit to absorb.

Dissembly will allow you to diagnose the situation. Start with drain and remove the radiator. Then, with a suitable tool remove, (search under fan clutch or water pump), the fan clutch, and belt. At that point you should be able to see what is broken, and can order the needed parts. Fastlane here has good prices if you are going to DIY.

E-Mail me back if you need additional help. The search function may help with other Questions from this vast archive of helpful MB owners.

Luck to you,
DanielW
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  #4  
Old 12-02-2002, 01:36 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Warminster, PA
Posts: 24
Dan - On my 1990 300E, on removing the belt when I loosen up the 19mm tension bolt is it counterclockwise or clockwise, same question with the 13 mm tensioner. thanks I think the problem that I have is the bearing bracket and the guide pulley on the bearing bracket, I used a stethoscope and they were making grinding noise. thanks
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Warminster, PA
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  #5  
Old 12-02-2002, 03:34 PM
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Mass
Posts: 1,127
edmar,
The fan clutch has a bearing pressed into it. If that is worn out, there would be noise and play at the fan.

Best of luck.
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1986 300E 5-Speed 240k mi.
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  #6  
Old 12-02-2002, 05:05 PM
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The 19mm and 13mm are loosened in a counter-clockwise direction. The directions in the 103 engine manual say to loosen the 19mm about 1/2 a turn. I personally feel that you need to back it off a bit more in order to get the 13mm to do it's job in tightening the belt. I also believe that by not loosening the 19mm sufficiently, you increase the risk of striping the 13mm when tightening it down. It's easy to do this anyway, so go easy when snugging down the 13mm.

My 2 cents.
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  #7  
Old 12-02-2002, 05:43 PM
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Location: Surrey, Uk
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You won't strip it, the rod just breaks (bitter experience!)
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'08 Chrysler 300CRD (MB OM 642 engine)
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  #8  
Old 12-02-2002, 05:49 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Warminster, PA
Posts: 24
0-rings on the bearing bracket bolts??

I just took off the bearing bracket for my 90 300E, I noticed that all of them have o-rings except for the one that is on the lower right side-facing it when removing it (which is hook to some sort of a bracket maybe for tensioner). Am I right or I might have dropped the o-ring in between that bracket and the engine. Can anybody help me on this one, because if I dropped it, hopefully it should be someplace under the car, which is seating outside while waiting for the parts from fastlane.
Thanks for all the replies..
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Warminster, PA
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  #9  
Old 12-03-2002, 06:33 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Warminster, PA
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Talking Finally done with the problem!

I successfully replaced the bearing bracket and guide pulley on same bracket today took me an hour and 20 min to do it. Noticed that however I loosen the 13mm belt tensioner it didn't give the slack that I need to fit the belt but by tagging and pulling from the the top I was able to get it done. My old bearing brackets was really in bad shape that the bearings was already out when I pulled that bracket out. Boy does that 300E hums right now! Thanks for all your help.
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