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  #1  
Old 11-13-2002, 12:52 AM
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560SEL rear links???

This evening I had to make an aggressive stop on the highway. Just as the car came to a halt there was a very loud clunk, accompanied by the sensation of somethin shifting. First thought was that the bowling balls in the trunk had slid forward and hit the rear seat back.

Upon arriving at home I checked the trunk, everything was in place. Next I began looking underneath with the flashlight. To my surprise I found, what I think is the rear link, loose from the rightside caliper carrier.



Close up


I looked in FastLane but was unable to locate the part. Looking in the manual, it refers to the tube as a "bolt". Do the replacement links have this "bolt". Can anyone provide the part number so I can search PartsShop? I need to try and locate the parts ASAP, will be doing both sides.

Looks like a straight forward job. I should be able to borrow the puller to remove the bolt from the sub frame and the end cap of the caliper carrier appears to come off. Any hidden surprises?
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'73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP
Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72

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  #2  
Old 11-13-2002, 03:32 PM
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The 1986 thru 1988 560SEL's have torque equalizing brake links like yours. No big deal on replacement.
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  #3  
Old 11-13-2002, 04:05 PM
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Thanks Doc, the job looks straight forward enough. I talked with Phil early this morning and we found the part in the line drawings - thanks yet again Phil. Have a replacement ordered already.
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Mike Tangas
'73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP
Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72

'02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis

2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon TDI...at least its a diesel

Non illegitemae carborundum.
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  #4  
Old 11-15-2002, 03:17 AM
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Another question...

The part arrived today. Genuine MB in the box. The part has a red splash on one side, I assume this is a locator mark. Which side should the red paint splash go to, inside or outside (or does it matter)?

Looking more at the job in the manual, it appears the size of the MB removal/install tool predicates removal of the axle shaft and brakes. I'm thinking of a somewhat smaller press, a 3/8" or 1/2" bolt or allthread backed by a stout washer and socket. Looks like I should be able to accomplish without total disassembly. Any thoughts?
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Mike Tangas
'73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP
Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72

'02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis

2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon TDI...at least its a diesel

Non illegitemae carborundum.
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  #5  
Old 11-15-2002, 08:45 AM
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Did you unbolt the piece that clamps around the bolt (tube)? If not, I would be real interested in knowing what else was loose enough for that guy to come out. I was just in that area on my '87 SEL; had to replace a noisy axle shaft on the left side. I suspect you could rig up some sort of press with bolts/sockets/pipe/washers. Not a lot of room, but properly jacked up you might be able to get to it. I would remove the caliper and rotor. Just tie the caliper up to the spring. Please keep us posted on htis project. Now you have me worried about mine.
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  #6  
Old 11-15-2002, 10:42 PM
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No joy...yet.

Have the car on stands, which gives a little more room to work. Spent about two hours trying different set ups, with no luck budging the lower link bolt.

I did determine why the upper end came loose from the caliper carrier. Someone has been here before and the top bolt of the carrier end cap was loose, backed out about 1/8" (now that I know the cause, I can see the separation in the close up pic). I suspect it was loosened during a prior brake job as these two bolts hold down the brake line clamp. I don't think you have to worry BobK, just check those end cap bolts.

No more working tonight, it's dark and I'm frustrated.
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Mike Tangas
'73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP
Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72

'02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis

2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon TDI...at least its a diesel

Non illegitemae carborundum.
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  #7  
Old 11-16-2002, 06:53 PM
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Well, I tried again today to get the lower bolt pressed out of the trailing arm. No go. I sat back and studied on the suspension for a while and decided to pull the caliper and the carrier end cap. When I did, I found out why the top bolt was backed out. The damn bolt had been stripped and the outer 1/4" of thread in the carrier was toast. With the end cap not being firmly snugged, it allowed the upper link bolt to work out with the levering action of the suspension. Now I found the cause, plus I found the caliper bolts weren't tight either.

Studied on the carrier for a bit and decided to chance a repair. An 8mm botttoming tap and a 8 x 40 replacement bolt were purchased (the original bolt is 8 x 35), opted for the extra 5mm of bolt to purchase good threads. Very careful work with the bottoming tap allowed me to restore the first 1/4" of thread and clean up the rest. Slow tedious work, but I saved myself from having to replace the caliper carrier.

After cleaning up the threads I turned my attention back to the link. I decided since I can't remove it I would try to use it. The upper link bolt had worked out approximately1/4" to 3/8". The bolt is mounted in rubber, encased in the link. I liberally coated the bolt with silicon and used a two jaw puller to press the bolt back in to it's proper depth. Once the bolt was returned to it's depth it lined up perfectly with the caliper carrier.

With everything lined up I started to install the end cap. I think I know how the bolt got stripped in the first place. The end cap does not set against the flats until fully tightened. What I suspect is that on a prior brake job, the caliper was removed and the brake line was unbolted from the end cap. This opened the end cap and on reassembly, care was not taken to ensure both bolts had a good bite and were tightened evenly. This allowed one bolt to strip and it probably appeared the end cap would hold. Over time the levering action twisted the bolt in the caliper carrier bore enough to back it out of the bore. For the week prior to the separation, I noticed a barely audible noise coming from the rear when stopping in reverse. The sound is hard to describe in words, but sounded like something small shifting in the trunk. The noise was most likely the link bolt working in the bore.

Everything is now back together and working properly. No noise when stopping in reverse. I drove into town and back by the route with the most stops, just to give the suspension a workout. Arriving back home I checked and there was no movement of the link bolt. I think it is going to hold. I still have the new link and will retain it in the parts bin. I also have a call in to the dealer, they are checking availability of the proper MB install/removal tool. I think this is gonna be an expensive tool if it is still available. Will need to have it when I do change the link.
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Mike Tangas
'73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP
Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72

'02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis

2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon TDI...at least its a diesel

Non illegitemae carborundum.
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