I'm doing this job over the Thanksgiving weekend, so as to have lots of time for the inevitable stuck bolt, stripped thread, or what have you.

I have read much on this board about the job, especially Mike Tangas's excellent contribution as part of his 560SEL project.

I recognize that the alternator, power steering pump and distributor have to be removed, and have fashioned a pivot pin puller from a piece of brass tubing and a 50mm M6 bolt.

While I'm in there I will check on the chain stretch (hopefully it's not too much at 100,000 miles) and will also replace the chain tensioner.

Are there any other things to think about before diving in?

I did take the precaution of purchasing new valve cover washers (these crush when the bolt is tightened and I prefer not to reuse them). The valve cover seals are new.

If there's any interest I will be glad to post pictures of the process.

Go ahead and replace the chain while you are there, cheap insurance.

Also make sure to use OEM chain guides, about $3-4 each. they won't break like the cheaper $1-2 aftermarket guides and leave you with a left head valve job.

That is how I got my 380SE, customer came in and had the guides and chain replaced at another shop. they used the cheapo guides and it only lasted about a year before the exaust valves on the left side were bent.

Anyway I bought the car for a grand, did the valve job, both sides, new guides.

Rebuilt the tranny, and overhauled the famous W126 front suspension and she drives like a dream.