560SEL chain rail replacement

[Thomaspin]

I did this job over the Thanksgiving weekend - two pleasant afternoons and one morning, including making the turkey.

As it's something many will want to do at 100,000 miles, I took some pictures of the process which you can see at:

http://www.pindelski.com/cars/W126/W126_chain_rails/W126_chain_rails.html

Enjoy!

[Mike Murrell]

Thomas:

Outstanding!

Thanks for taking time to provide us with this information. No doubt it will serve others.

[suginami]

Man, the pictures and the explanation are beyond outstanding.

Your page needs to be posted on the D.I.Y. link on the home page.

Bravo!

Nice work! Yes, definetely needs to be in the DIY section.

[S Car Go]

Excellent work!

EXCELLENT JOB - YOU HAVE GIVEN ME THE FIRE TO DO MINE (Have been too chicken until now). One verification though - you said the LHS cam has to be rotated a "few degrees" using the 2 nibs and an adjustable wrench. I know a pix is worth a thousand words and I will probably know what you mean when I get to that point. But to clarify - are you meaning that there is two flats on the end of the LHS cam shaft that will allow it to be rotated with a wrench and that the cam shaft will be off because of timing chain stretch and with the new glides installed the cam will have to be rotated for the key of the cam gear to engage? Please advise
thanks
Maurice

[Thomaspin]

Maurice -

You will see the 'nibs' (two metal protrusions, rough cast) around the center of each camshaft and, yes, the camshaft has to be rotated a tad owing to the changes brought on by the new tensioners and rails. We're talking 2 or 3 degrees of cam gear rotation here - much less than one tooth and you can only replace the gear one way with the cut-out aligned with the Woodruff key.

Frankly, any way that allows you to grab hold of the camshaft to rotate it without damaging any machined surfaces will work.

The snag here is that there is very little clearance between the camshaft and the cam oiler tube that runs the length of the cam shaft. The tube is monted on the cam towers (you can see it in my pictures) using those foul plastic pieces which turn brittle and snap when you pry them off. The cam oiler tube is very fragile (thin section alloy).

You may like to procure a cam oiler kit and replace the plastic parts while you are in there - it's a cheap kit and removing the oiler tube will greatly enhance your access to the cam for rotation purposes. I did this when I replaced the fuel injectors - doumented elsewhere on this list. The old plastic oiler mounts break and are tough to get out, so set some time aside to do the job right.

Hope that helps.

Got It!!! Thank you very much
Maurice

[Kebowers]

I was impressed by the internal cleanliness of the engine. Please share your oil used, changing habits, etc. All 100K mile engines should be so clean!

[mbz1]

I would have put in a new chain in this car... I have seen a couple of them come apart!! just think a 100.000 miles, how many times that chain has been around and around, its just not worth having to spend $3000 over a $60.00 chain...


Robert's mercedes benz service

Russellville AR.

[andy day]

Brilliant ! What a thoroughly first class, professional presentation that is . . Well done and give yourself a big pat on the back. Thanks for taking the time to share . . .!

[Thomaspin]

Kebowers -

Nothing special to keep the engine clean. Four factors worth mentioning:

1 - Digital pictures tend to glamorize
2 - The car has spent all its life in the benign climate of California
3 - I hand wash it twice a month and always give the engine a swipe while I'm at it
4 - I removed the worn clearcoat on the air cleaner (NevrDull + elbow grease) and recoated it with clear engine enamel and a new label at 90,000 miles.

All of these conspire to make it look better than it really is.

Everyone:

If anyone wants a ZIP file of the annotated pictrures to permit better quality prints to be made (assuming you contemplate doing this job) please email me and I will send the file by return.