Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help

Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Tech Help

Closed Thread
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 09-08-1999, 03:20 PM
Posts: n/a
Can I use a floor jack & wheel stands to jack up my '91 300 TE 4-matic for tire rotation, or do I need to use the jack provided with the car?

If I can use a floor jack, where can the jack be safely placed? Does it need rubber contact point to avoid metal to metal contact?

Lastly, what are the torque specs for the lug nuts?

Many thanks for the on-going and excellent services this board provides!


Old 09-08-1999, 03:36 PM
Rick Miley's Avatar
Spark Free
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: Land O Lakes, FL
Posts: 3,086
I use the floor jack on one end and put it under the rubber pad just under the jack tube. Then use the factory jack in the other end. No messing with stands that way. Sorry, can't help with torque specs.

Rick Miley
Tampa, FL
99 E300DT
86 190E
87 300E

Old 09-08-1999, 04:03 PM
Michael's Avatar
Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: Boston, USA
Posts: 2,700
Lug nut torque is 80-85 ft/lbs.

As regards rotating, I do it the exact same way!

Best regards, Michael
'92 500E
'88 300TE
Old 09-08-1999, 06:40 PM
Posts: n/a
As far as rotating, I have been told by more than one tire shop that the old warning about rotating radial tires; that is only go front to back, never cross, is no longer valid, and many tire manufacturers now recommend rotating as follows (for a rear drive car):

Drive wheels straight forward, non-drive wheels cross, and back (e.g. right rear goes to right front, right front goes to left rear, left rear goes to left front, left front goes to right rear.)

Anyone else heard this, or doing this? I have been doing rotations this way for several years with no apparent detrimental effect.
Old 09-09-1999, 10:29 PM
Posts: n/a
Many thanks for all this excellent feedback!


Old 09-10-1999, 12:25 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: Tampa, Florida, USA
Posts: 214
If you have directional tread on the tires, you probably don't want to swap them from one side of the car to the other. If you do, your tread will be facing the wrong way.

On many tires it doesn't matter, but some tires (especially high-performance and Aqua-tred type tires, the tires are only supposed to rotate a certain direction. You can probably look on the sidewall of the tire for an arrow marked "Rotation direction" or something like that.

Of course, you could always remove the tires from the wheels and re-mount them facing the other way, but that seems like a lot of work Just rotate front-to-back if you have unidirectional treaded tires.

- Nathan
'83 240D

Old 09-10-1999, 10:33 PM
Posts: n/a
TIMBRU99, most of the time a rotate tires the same way, but I always balance at least the two going onto the front, they are usually way off. I always try to put the best tires on the front. I have found that the front tires wear faster than the rear and that the left side tires wear faster than the right. I the customer won't buy new tires the worst goes on the left rear.

Old 09-11-1999, 01:32 PM
Posts: n/a
The 4-matics are notoriously hard on tires, and MB recommends rotating front to back, or is it (back to front ;-)) every 3K miles. Since the tires are directional it would really be a lot of work to remove them from the wheels. My MB Dealer/shop will do a rotate & balance for me for about $65 (tax included) (which I'd have done at the 3K mile oil & filter change), but I thought I'd try to do it my-self to save the $$. If after rotating, the car feels like it wants to have the tires re-balanced, I'd have the rotate & balance done by the dealer/shop thereafter.

It would suck if the car needs to have it's tires re-balanced every 3K miles as the maintenance cost for doing this over 20K miles would just about equal the cost of the tires. In fact, it would be only slightly less to do the maintenance than to put the tires on, leave them on and replace them every 20K miles. So I'm hoping to not have to re-balance more than every 6K to 9K miles. Does anyone think this an unreasonable expectation?

As an aside, I bought the tires (Michelin Pilot XGT V4s, I think), at Discount tire where they did the initial mount and balance, and then took the car to the dealer/shop for a 4-wheel alignment. Afterward, the car developed a terrible shimmy at speeds over about 45mph. I took the car back to the tire store where they supposedly, rebalanced the tires, but made for little improvement. After that I took them to the dealer/shop where they re-did the balance job and all has been fine since.

Closed Thread


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
"Alternator" 115 Amp Bosch AL129X works in 123s! 81Wagon Diesel Discussion 353 05-17-2020 09:19 PM
rotate your rings? rickg Off-Topic Discussion 3 05-12-2004 12:41 PM
How to rotate the steering wheel of a diesel car without starting it? ericnguyen Diesel Discussion 3 03-24-2003 08:13 PM
How to rotate the steering wheel of a diesel car without starting it? ericnguyen Tech Help 1 03-24-2003 01:00 AM
Rear tires wearing out Tolahouse Mercedes-Benz Wheels & Tires 8 11-09-2001 04:06 PM

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:33 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2018 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page