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  #16  
Old 01-22-2003, 04:21 PM
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You have three coil wires and three high tension leads that piggy-back to the next cylinder. So each coil wire is responsible for firing two cylinders.

The coil wires are made of solid copper and virtually never wear out. I don't remember how much they are off-hand, but I'm sure they are over $200 for a set.

The coil wire ends (or boots or connectors) are about $7 to $10 each, depending on where you buy them.

95% of all missing or misfire problems on M104 engines are due to a bad connection on these resistor boots.
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2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior.
79,200 miles.

1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron".
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  #17  
Old 01-22-2003, 04:22 PM
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I forgot to say that I wouldn't recommend replacing the coil wires because they just don't wear out.

If you do, only buy original MB wires with the star logo on it because they are made of solid copper.

Aftermarket wires, even Bosch, are much cheaper but are not worth it as they are made of a copper / silicone blend and will wear out.

You get what you pay for.
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Paul S.

2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior.
79,200 miles.

1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron".
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  #18  
Old 01-22-2003, 05:44 PM
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So..is the resistor end part of a new plug wire? or is it a separate item?

Thanks.
I need
the spark plugs
the new spark plug wires
new resistor ends?
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  #19  
Old 01-22-2003, 05:48 PM
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Resistor ends screw off and on the end of the plug wire. They are what attach to the spark plug to the spark plug wire. They are about the size of a small tube of toothpaste. Get the plugs while you are at it. No "R" in the part number of the plug. Means resistor. Will burn up the wire ends from too much heat.
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  #20  
Old 01-22-2003, 06:22 PM
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You are calling them spark plug wires, but they are technically coil wires.

I wouldn't recommend replacing them, but you can if it makes you feel better.

Remember, it's not the coil wire that goes bad, but the connection with the resistor end.
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Paul S.

2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior.
79,200 miles.

1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron".
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  #21  
Old 01-22-2003, 07:02 PM
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guys..really...thanks a lot.
So since the car just had a new service..I will go ahead and get new resistor ends and new spark plugs as stated...
I will post when after I do that...
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  #22  
Old 01-28-2003, 04:42 PM
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I was about to buy the resistor ends when I was thrown a curve ball. How many do I need? point is there are six cylinders but there are three coil wires and three plug wires?
ANy ideas?
thanks.
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  #23  
Old 01-28-2003, 05:16 PM
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There will be three of each type, six total. One type for right under each of the three coils, and one type for the ends that attach to the longer wire.

If you're buying at the dealer like I did, they will understand.
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  #24  
Old 01-28-2003, 05:44 PM
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Exactly. There are three coil wires and three "high tension lead" wires, so there are six resistor ends - three for the coil wires and three for the other wires. They are two different types and they are priced differently.
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2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior.
79,200 miles.

1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron".
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  #25  
Old 01-28-2003, 06:35 PM
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The main fail part on these ignitions is the little spring connector between the resistor and the spark plug tower. This connector spring is part of the resistor boot under each coil. The resistor itself and the top coil connector are usually fine. But the bottom connecting spring fatigues from both the heat that is trapped at the plug BC this cavity is encased by the coil and it is simply a compression contact. Not the best electrical connection, but BC the coil is on top , that is the design they used.
Once the spring looses its tension , the connection becomes weak [ as it is simply a compression contact].
Results are mis-fire at that plug, plus a possible mis-fire at the
other plug due to this being a series coil circuit. [ If the spark jumps to ground at this weak connection, the other plug will fire, however]
The other 3 resistors do not have this problem as they have a snap connector at both the plug end and the coil end and the plug cavities are open to some cooling.

So , mostly. you can rectify the mis-fire conditions on these by simply replacing the resistor boot connector under each coil.
About $7 ea..........
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  #26  
Old 04-01-2003, 02:44 PM
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Did the problem went away after you replace the part ?? I have pretty much the same problem but it just happen once a while. I can put my on "P" or "N" and the surging will be gone, question is how that got to do with the spark-wires if it's bad, the engine should have rought idle and mis-fire all the time right ??

Good day.
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  #27  
Old 04-01-2003, 04:21 PM
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Kenny:

It may not seem intuitive, but it works. My car only "lurched" under load. Never any perceptible difference at idle in P or N. Change out your plugs with Bosch F8DC4 only and replace your resistor ends.
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  #28  
Old 04-01-2003, 04:30 PM
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Thanks...the problem is gone. I had the plugs and wires replaced.
it cured the problem. I tried doing it myself but it was too much hassle..so Ifound a mechanic to do it.

make sure you have the correct parts..
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  #29  
Old 08-31-2003, 05:56 PM
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Just want to make sure that I'm going for the correct parts.

Are the part numbers 000 159 36 42 (about $11) and 000 156 71 10 (about $18) ??

Thank you.

Allan
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