I will be rebuilding my 300D engine over the next few months (another thread) and in the meantime I want to keep the rust to a minimum on the exposed parts - crank, cam, block, etc... Any good ideas to keep this stuff from rusting while it is sitting in the garage/shed? It will be under roof but in the humid environment rust still kinda develops. Right now I am just keeping a good, thick layer of grease on all of it.
tia

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Jim

Cast iron is the worst for rust.... worse than steel.

As you dismantle your engine, try moving some of the parts - like crank and cam - into the basement. Other than that, keep the parts wet with oil, grease, or whatever it takes, and try not to let the project sit too long unattended.

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95 E320 Cabriolet, 159K

Assuming you can't find anything in an auto parts store that appeals to you, try a sporting goods store that sells rifles. Look for gun lube, grease, etc. Blued firearms love to corrode, and more than a few companies make products designed to combat this situation.

P.S. Attics are usually drier than basements. Move the light pieces upstairs.

Thanks - I will check the gun supply store.
I'd have to dig a hole to put them in the basement .

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Jim

I'm guessing that if you spray them with used engine oil (not diesel's maybe...) they wouldn't rust at all. Just make sure to wipe them clean before reinstalling.

good luck with that engine

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2008 BMW 335i Coupe

Coat with a lubricant and wrap in Saran Wrap. Interestingly enough, the initial use of Saran Wrap was to prevent rust on guns shipped overseas during WW II. The air/moisture barrier strength of Saran Wrap is outstanding.

Make sure that you get the "original" Saran Wrap and not any of the "cling" wraps. Saran wrap is made of a distinct resin, versus most wraps which are polyethylene. From a barrier protection standpoint, Saran Wrap is a safe door and other wraps are a screen door.

BTW, I used to work for Dow, but no longer......Saran is the best stuff out there for air/moisture protection.

JCD

Jcd has it right in my opinion.
What I've done in the past (with similar storage options) is to spray the day-lights out of everything with a rust preventative (I like LPS 2, or if you don't mind the mess LPS 3) then I cover the entire assembly with a plastic bag/s.
Thsi has worked for me, my $0.02

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1992 500SEL 25K
1995 E320 40K
1995 SL600 120K
2002 JX8 Sport 43K
2005 Volvo S40 95K
2006 Isuzu NPR 304K (Frankencamper)
2007 Crown Victoria 150K
2014 Smart Electric 20K

Just to reinforce. Saran Wrap.....original....is the best. Bags and most wraps are made of Polyethylene, which does not have the same air/moisture barrier properties. Saran is REALLY better.

Jim

If it were me, I'd look go to a local shop I know that rebuilds diesel engines and axles for tractor trailers. Last time I was there, they had an amazing array of lubricants in their showroom. These guys really knew their stuff and were very helpful. Check your yellow pages -- there's probably a similar shop in your area.

Jeff Pierce

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Jeff Pierce

Current Vehicles:
'92 Mercedes 190E/2.3 (247K miles/my daily driver)
'93 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon (263K miles/a family truckster with spunk)
'99 Kawasaki Concours
Gravely 8120
Previous Vehicles:
'85 Jeep CJ-7 w/ Fisher plow (226K miles)'93 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon
'53 Willys-Overland Pickup
'85 Honda 750F Interceptor
'93 Nissan Quest
'89 Toyota Camry Wagon
'89 Dodge Raider
'81 Honda CB 750F Super Sport
'88 Toyota Celica
'95 Toyota Tacoma
'74 Honda CB 550F

Here in the UK we have various brands of Wax based sprays.
Maybe U can find Dinitrol or Rocol in the US ?
These are translucent wax aerosol sprays intended for just the application you require. They can be removed with normal solvents, even gas if you must !
Failing that try your local Aeroparts supplier , they are always preserving parts from the elements.

L8r

wd40 or chain lube should do the trick

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http://www.maxhydraulics.com
zeb..........
http://www.lo-rdz.co.uk/store/forum_sig.gif

Zeb,

We meet again !

Based on my experience WD40 is no good for long term protection and whilst chain lube will protect , it is V messy to handle and expensive.

Check this link for rust inhibitors (with full product description): http://www.lubeplanet.com

Also, why don't you buy an electrical dehumidifier (where I live you can buy one for approx. $200). You could have it working (automatically) say 5 hours per day. Since these appliances can actually control humidity levels it will, for sure, be useful later somewhere inside your house (that's the way I justified its acquisition to my wife, while I was really worried with humidity levels on my garage)