in conclusion, I used http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W124BlowerMotor as a guide and it worked great for me...good luck....

JSlabotsky, you're a genius. You just saved me a bundle of money! My mechanic diagnosed my Blower Regulator as the problem, but when I pulled the motor, I decided to bench test it. When I found it was bad, I took it back to my mechanic (who's a great guy btw) and he confirmed. He felt bad that he misdiagnosed me, so he sold me a used motor with cages for $40 bucks. (deal) While I had everything taken apart, I cleaned the whole thing. Went back easy too.

I'm adding a couple of pictures I took with my phone... I added some arrows and text. Hopefully they'll help others.

Anyway, if you're ever in Santa Cruz, CA, let me buy you a beer!

Attached Thumbnails

       

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Kyle De Priest
2007 e320 Bluetec
2013 GLK 250 Bluetec

Thanks very much for the detailed info. A few points:
1. Before starting, press the two buttons in on the bonnet locking clips which allows the bonnet to go vertical, avoiding a banged head & makes access much easier.
2. I couldn't find my allen keys so I did not remove the wiper arm, but no problem to remover the w/s wiper assembly provided the blade is parked.
3. When removing the grill, the bottom two screws are a bit tricky to find being screwed vertically onto the chassis, whereas the others are horizontal. They are below the two big plastic screws.
4.I replaced my W124 fan from a Biehr type installation with a Bosch type fan/motor from a W 190 - No problem to fit, the blades are slightly smaller dia, and have to be tapped in to make the spacing the same,but much easier than swopping blades from the old motor. Just use a socket on the bottom end of the fan & other socket on the to end, with the fan standing vertically on the bench & tap the top socket with a hammer till the spacing is right ( 112mm inside edges or 238mm outside edges)
The airflowfrom the fan on high speed is fine, maybe slightly less than the correct fan, but fine for me. I sprayed the bearings with WD40 before re-installing.
On the Bosch Motor the brushes are accessible for replacement but on the SM motor ( MS 120-01-82) used on the Bheir fan, the motor is in two halves rivetted together, which would have to be drilled out to change the brushes.
Also the Bosch Motor is slightly smaller diameter so you need to pack some double sided foam pads around the motor body so that the clamp is tight (probably makes it run quieter)

Is there much difference from this model to a 300 SD?

The W126.120 300SD blower is under the glove box = accessed from the passenger foot area.


Blower Motor Links Page
Blower Motor Links Page

Replaced blower motor 5yr? ago. Recently again heater blower failure, found heater fuse holder over heated, melted, replaced with an inline fuse holder 25 amp. Worked for about a year, blower went out again, checked in line fuse holder all melted, fuse couldn't be removed. Subsituted a 12VDC 25 Amp. automatic circuit breaker figuring if too much resistance, curcuit breaker would overheat, open, (blower would stop) circuit would cool and breaker would close and fan would continue. Worked one day only, blower stopped, restarted, stopped and dead. Removed breaker (pried apart, found spring melted and broken). I hot wired blower lead ( battery +12V to fuse lead, blower runs) so replaced circuit breaker with a 12VDC 30Amp fuse holder and fuse. Now blower doesn't run when all reassembled, Could it be the heater blower regulator? If so how do you test it?

P.S. previous photos excellent, finely found a pictured location of heater blower regulator, I have MB CD and even it doesn't show location of regulator!!

Sounds more like the bearings are bad or the fan is dragging on the housing and causing the amps to go way up. If you had 3 speeds when the problem started, it's probably not the motor controller. I'd try to run it with the top of the housing off. If the resistance is high enough to melt fuse and circuit breaker blocks, the motor is probably getting hot enough to melt or warp the plastic squirrel cages. Just a thought. Good luck. -Reid

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Reid
Past ('59 220Sb, 2-'59 190's, '92 300D 2.5T)
Current
'04 E320 4Matic Wagon
'00 E320 4Matic Wagon

thank you to the guy that made the heater blower removal pic it was a great help thanks here it is

I replaced my regulator today with great ease thanks very much to your contribution. Another satisfied customer.

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http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...aman/Fleet.jpg

Peach Parts W124.128 User Group.

80 280SL
85 300SD
87 300TD
92 300D 2.5 Turbo
92 300TE 4Matic

First, the instructions here are great! Exceptionally helpful.

Yes, it is important to take pictures as you remove the parts especially where the windshield trim overlaps at the wiper and windshield posts. This was necessary when I reassembled the following day. Take pictures of the whole job and also the details. I used both to find my way back.

Yes, losing screws and fasteners is frustrating. After I removed the part I put the screw half back in where it came from. This kept the screw from disappearing and/or losing the fastener. I learned this after I dropped one of the fasteners under the battery tray (retrieved) and one of the screws (lost).

Removing the rubber weatherstrip/seal at the base of the windshield must be done carefully. There is an aluminum spine that will get kinked if you try to bend it back too far. My recommendation is that you put your fingers under the seal at the top and bottom and gently but firmly lift it a couple of inches or less at each of the 3 friction tabs that hold each seal. For me, this was also the hardest part to put back.

There is a band of foam weatherstripping between the centre cover and the fan housing. The original was thoroughly worn out. I replaced with adhesive backed foam seal (about 1/2" wide, 1/4" thick, about 30" long). May not be the exact material but it seemed to work.

The fan was easy to remove once I got there. Cleaning the fan was a pain and then I used wheel cleaner. This worked very well and I rinsed throughly with water to ensure that there was no residue that would harm the plastic or create noxious fumes in the cabin.

I took me awhile to do this but I was careful and was cleaning thoroughly all the way through the job. I used AutoGlym Vinyl and Rubber Conditioner which I have found to be an excellent product. Took me about 8 hours which includes the removal time, cleaning all the parts and adjacent fittings, oiling the fan motor bearings, testing the fan, cleaning the fans, running to the parts store to get the weatherstripping/foam seal and replacement screws, and reassembling.

I didn't replace the brushes as I will replace the fan motor the next time I have a problem. Nonetheless, the annoying squeak is now gone!

Cheers,
Paul

Thanks for the information. I think I can do it myself. I am excited in W124 Blower Motor removal.

anyone recall how the regulator wiring is snaked through.... i have it through the round hole....

...but there doesn't seem to be a "break" in the housing....so my housing is not taught..and the wiring is being pinched...

since the housing is not taught... i get a whistling sound through my vent...

i have the smaller rubber grommet...that should go somewhere...and provide a clean seal.

i hope this makes sense.

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1989 300ce 129k
( facelifted front,updated tail lights, lowered suspension,bilstein sports, lorinser front spoiler, MOMO steering wheel, remus exhaust,stainless steel brake lines). (Gone)

1997 s320 154k (what a ride). Sold with 179k miles. Replaced with Hyundai Equus

1994 e320 Cabriolet 108k



1972 280se 4.5 153k Owned for 12 yrs, sorry I sold it


[/SIGPIC]

I just finished doing a R/R on the regulator of my 1993 300E. While I was at it, I thought that I'd clean up the heater core since I could see the whole thing once the blower was out, especially since the regulator was out as well. After 17 years, I figured cleaning the core would improve the sometimes musty smell that would come into the cabin when on the EC vent setting.

I went to my local AutoZone and picked up a can of A/C & Heater Duct Cleaner... very glad I did. Once I sprayed it on with the straw attachment, I could see the grime between the fins just fall away. I used a clean paint brush to clean up the rest. Works and smell like a new car again.


Al

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03 CLK430 Cabrio 211K Pweter Silver/ Oyster Leather
90 300SEL 214k Pearl Black/ Alto Grey/Black Leather

Prior: 85 190E, 88 300TE, 89 300TE, 90 300E 2.6, 90 300TE, 92 300E 2.6, 91 and 93 300SL, 87 Ferrari Mondial Cabrio

These instructions to replace the blower motor are well tested, so I guess I will have the courage. I wonder how all you people got the job done in record time if you did not know if the regulator was shot or not? I hate to order one in advance, since it might be OK. I actually believe mine is shot due to excess water routing through the blower for the last six months. I guess I'll just pull it and see.....

Has the control unit on the dash ever been the cause of blower stoppage? This one has likely never been replaced it is 15 years old on a 1995 E300.

Instructions worked well. All I needed was lubrication of the bearings. A prior suggestion to use AC duct cleaner while in there was comforting. I'm not sure I have top speed available, but it is good to be blowing something.

Thanks for the detailed pictures and instructions.