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  #16  
Old 01-26-2003, 02:16 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 571
Chuck asked if the plugs were wet - that would be my first check. Are they?

If not I'd wonder if the control plunger in the new-to-you fuel dist. wasn't opening. If it doesn't rise, fuel doesn't flow to the injectors.
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  #17  
Old 01-26-2003, 02:36 PM
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Join Date: May 2000
Posts: 376
J.

As Mike stated, did you check and compare the plunger height on the `new` distibutor versus the old one? If they are off just a bit the air flow meter`s resting height might need to be reset.

Have you tried slightly depressing the air flow meter sensor plate while cranking to see if it starts?

Check the spark plugs. If their wet/soaked. The car will not start.


Tinker
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  #18  
Old 01-26-2003, 05:48 PM
J.HIDALGO's Avatar
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Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: Jax, FL
Posts: 1,785
Talking I am back!

I am done!
The car started and the rough idle is gone. Steve B. was right, as usual!:p
I did what Andy suggested. I tried so many times that my battery went dead. I had to jump start the car and, at the same time, try to adjust the fuel distributor outside my garage with a few neighbors and all the kids in the neighborhood around the house(pictured that!):p
My son was on one vehicle increasing rpm's, my wife in the MB trying to start the car and me messing with the adjusting screw. Until finally, it started with a big cloud of dark smoke. It was so much that my wife came out of the car thinking the car was on fire. I guess it was all the carburator cleaner and raw gas from the intake. Once it started, I just adjusted the lambda as per Steve's article around 45-47% duty cycle(which was the best setup for my car). It was way off but, it has been working fine so far.
A few observations I found along the way.
1. Cylinder #4 has an air leak (found it, with carb spray). I will change in the near future.
2. I need a new fuel pump relay, I glued the pin to the base temporarily since it is still making contact. The inside of the relay looks corroted at the pin sides.
3. I may need a new battery, since mine is weak now.
4. I did saw off the top of the adjusting screw.About 1/2 cm.
5. My economy gauge leaning about 1/4 to the right at idle before. Now, it is stuck to the left.
Note: I just read this so the plunger heigh was about the same as the old one. I did not check the spark plugs before.
I hope this help somebody else in my same situation.
Thanks to everybody that suggested solutions!
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  #19  
Old 01-26-2003, 09:30 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Orlando, FL
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Where can I find Steve's lambda article and can someone please explain the "cracking" of the distributor nuts and injectors...what it does and how do to it? Thanks!
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904 Midnight Blue, Gray Velour
Dad bought it new, now I own it.

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  #20  
Old 01-26-2003, 10:06 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 571
DIY section at this site has Steve Brotherton's elect. engine control article. Here's a direct pointer:

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/EngineControls
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  #21  
Old 01-27-2003, 04:18 PM
J.HIDALGO's Avatar
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Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: Jax, FL
Posts: 1,785
"cracking" means...

to loosen the nuts/bolts just enough to get a "control" leak. It is used to confirm if you have flow coming from the fuel distributor (in this case). Be very careful with gas in the engine compartment!
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