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#1
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Alittle bit different 300 Evap question
Hey guys its been a while,
Well the Evap went, I found it w/ my leak detecter (ohh and it was blowing oil through the vents at me ) The hour estimate in the book reads out at 14.1, and I went on our ALLDATA machine to check out the replacement procedure, pretty vague. After checking out some of the posts I still have one or two questions. Mainly how much of the dash do I have to take out? I removed the climate control/console area and cluster for a better look (this is my 2nd car, I'm not in a hurry) and It looks like maybe it will have to come out through the top, making total dash removal necessary? other than that, I plan to order the actuators, because I know 2 are bad for sure (that tapping noise was driving me nuts) and I have access to both 12 and 134 recovery machines Gonna replace the expansion valve because I noticed some odd pressures last time I had gauges on it, and of course the drier... Any other advice would be appreciated Jason McNeese 86 300E |
#2
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The WHOLE dash has to come out!
Replace ALL the actuators while you are there. It think there are 6-8 of them, total. Believe me, you don't want to do this again!
Buy the evaporator with the copper lines. They last longer. Change the expansion valve and the receiver/dryer also. As far as the R12 or r134. You will find different views on that point. Personally, I changed mine to r134. No problems so far. It has been a couple of years since. Bottom line, it is YOUR choice. Good luck!
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J.H. '86 300E |
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Thx J.H.
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#4
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The ENTIRE dash board, steering wheel, center console, front carpet, outside windshield wiper mechanism comes out to do the job. The evap is behid the heater box - so the heater box must come out to do the job. As mentioned, replace all the vacuum actuators at the same time. I have seen my mechanic do many of these, and he can do it one "long" day if left alone. Unlike some, he puts all the parts back.
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Brian Toscano |
#5
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Thx, Does the blower motor have to come out too?
It seems like I have everything loose from the dash, but its still anchored near the windshield |
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I took it out!
Somebody said it does not have to come out but, for me, it was a lot easier to take it out. As a matter of fact, I took the whole "black box" out. The evaporator and the heater core are inside this box.
I did not have to take the steering wheel out. I just worked around it. One more thing, you can buy the rubber replacements for the actuators for aournd $5 instead of the whole thing from George Murphy. Do a search under his name. Good luck!
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J.H. '86 300E |
#7
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I lay the colums in floor on 124 cars and pull the wheels on 140's. The entire dash pads has to come out, along with the other stuff mentioned further up. Go ahead and replce the foam looking evap drains while your looking at 'em. (had 2 140's, 3 126's and a couple 124's with weird electrical gremlins from wet floors due to bad drains)
I'd do all the elements. ACM makes the best fitting core I've seen and most have a expansion valve already attached. Just dont do what I did one day and decide the lines at the valve dont need tightening. Joe
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Project Smoker, '87 603 powered wagon Hauler, 96 CTD can you say torque? Toy 73 Cougar xr7 convertible Acme Automotive Inc. Raleigh NC 919-881-0364 |
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