I use Xenon HID bulbs in my 400SE and have not seen any problems at all, it looks good and see more clear.

hey guys i have a 93 400e and i got those bulbs (xenon) made they created a lot of problem sfor me after 3 weeks now io lost rt side bulb harness (had to buy a connector from NAPA)to fix teh problem as soon as i took those bulbs off i have no problems what so ever
hell with that light i would reather drive a car worry free
yes if u can also upgrade ur harnesses ( which is quite costly) u ll face no problems
hope i helped in anyway
mani

If your bulb exceeds the OE wattage, you could be in for problems related to your wiring harness, and I wouldn't do it.

BTW, a 100W bulb cannot "really" be 80W. Wattage is a physical measure, and is not a measure of output, which is actually measured in lumens.

Now, look at compact flouro-lights. They are rated for a much lower wattage than standard light bulbs, but are rated for the same lumens at a much lower consumption.

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John Shellenberg
1998 C230 "Black Betty" 240K

http://img31.exs.cx/img31/4050/tophat6.gif

I've had these bulbs for over a year and they still light up bright as when i got them brand new. The problem started occuring 2 months ago.... And 2 weeks ago was the 7th time the problem occured again.
The sign on my dash cluster says "Low Batt. Charge"... the dealership changed the alternator 3 times, the first one i had to pay for and the 2nd and third was covered by warranty.

Well, do you guys know any bulb brands that gives a more brighter/whitish look without going over 55watts? I don't like the stock bulbs which gives a yellowish look.

Try this-

Head lights for Mercedes Benz- discussion

and ....I think these represent a great value for the money. Especially since they come with a $10 rebate for a pair. Typically found in chain auto stores.

http://www.sylvania.com/auto/silverstar.htm

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Haasman

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'03 E320 Wagon-Sold
'95 E320 Wagon-Went to Ex
'93 190E 2.6-Wrecked
'91 300E-Went to Ex
'65 911 Coupe (#302580)

I think that there are a few of you here that need to get a book and learn about Ohms Law and a few other electrical principles.

Power (Wattage) = I (current in Amps) X E (Voltage). If you put in bulbs that consume more Power, the Voltage remains virtually the same, so the Current(Amps) will increase. Connectors, wiring, relays, sockets and all electrical components are selected and installed in your car with a rated Current(Amperage) in mind. If you increase this current, these electrical components will not be capable of dealing with the added current.

If the Current increases too much, heat is generated wherever the most resistance in the circuit exists. This is usually at a connector, relay contact, switch, etc.

When you make modifications to a car, you are always doing so at your own risk. When the car is under warranty, you are transferring that risk unfairly to the business that, in good faith, agreed to warrant the product at their expense. Some modifications have no ill effect, others do.

If you are not totally knowledgable regarding any possible ill effects that may be caused by a modification, it is not fair to impose this risk on the entity that is providing the free warranty service. This is just common human decency. If it turns out that the modification causes expense to the warranting entity, paying for that repair would be the decent thing to do.

When I first got out of the Army in 1971, I worked for a short time at a Dodge Truck shop. This was in the days of the Chrysler 50,000 mile drivetrain warranties. It amazed me to see how many trucks came in with 49,000 miles on the odometer, and completely WORN OUT! Some of them didn't even have enough pride to reconnect the speedometer cable themselves before they drove it into the shop expecting a new engine or transmission for free.

I have heard the term "Consumer Protection." What about protection FROM the consumer? Any transaction is a two way street and deserves fairness from both parties.

My $0.02,