Repair Tips, Short-Cuts - Page 6 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

rndutch · #76 02-17-2004, 01:16 PM

Cruise Control on your older (80's) MB not working? Check all of your lamps first. If any are open (not working), replace them. The Cruise Control ground uses the lighting electrical ground. A burnt-out bulb will open the circuit and disable the Cruise Control (learned from the school of hard knocks - and a good MB tech)...Dutch

KermitF · #77 05-05-2004, 12:16 PM

KermitF
Junior Member

Registered: Mar 2004
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 3
Helpful hints
Hi guys,

Over the past month I have installed rear shocks, front struts (incl. boots, bump stops, mounts) drag link, both tie rod assemblies and (3 of 4) new brake lines on my 171K mi. 1990 300E. I used info from Stu Ritter's Mercedes Bible, Haynes UK manual, MB CDs, and this forum. Finished up yesterday and car got aligned at local MB dealer today. Drives superbly now. During this exercise, I learned a bit, including some things I have not seen/heard before that might be worth sharing.

Here goes:

1. When replacing rear shocks, you must remove trunk panels. This is a perfect time to clean out your wheel well drains. Mine had the accumulation of 14 years of pine straw/gravel/paper clips.
I thought I did a good job cleaning these from under car with ice pick and vacuum cleaner, but not even close. The great thing about cleaning when replacing shocks is that it is a hassle to remove/re-intall those panels.

2. On rear shocks, none of the instructions I read talked about removing sway bar link, but this did make removal and install of shock go easier (with, of course, lower suspension arm supported from underneath). I also replaced the one-time nuts I removed from the sway bar link, as I am very cautious re. suspension. I had already installed sway bar bushings and connecting links, and that was too bad, as this would have been the better time to do them.

3. Pep Boys rents a GREAT front end tool kit. $106 US, refundable when tools returned. Perfect (small) tie rod end puller for use on 124s. Really high quality tools, better than the Auto Zone tools I also use. You will love this set.

4. Tie rod studs are hollowed at top for hex sockets/allen wrench. Never read this anywhere and learned only after becoming exasperated with inner tie rod re-install. Once you know this bit of engineering genius, tie rod work becomes too easy. This may be a feature of all tie rods and I simply did not know this as this was my first trial by fire, but I never read this anywhere in any instructions. Had I done my front struts first - where reference is made in the instructions - I might have guessed tie rod ends used same principle. Anyway, this was a great revelation.

5. Replaced 3 of 4 brake lines with new (stock rubber) lines, did yearly fluid replacement (used Valvoline DOT 4 synthetic), and difference is very noticeable. Brakes felt good previously; they feel great now. BTW, left rear upper fitting would not budge despite liquid wrench, vise grip use, light tapping with hammer. I scarred the nut a bit, but decided to stop - and live with old line - until I could figure a way to remove it without trashing fittings/line completely. Any suggestions would be most appreciated.

If I think of any more, I will add.

Thanks to fellow forum members for the great info available here. Would have never been able to accomplish this without the knowledge I have gained here.

KermitF · #78 05-10-2004, 12:54 PM

A couple of other tips from my recently completed front end work.

1. You can torque your drag link retaining nuts from below with a crows foot on the end of your torque wrench

2. When removing front struts, your instruction will tel you to put a wire through your steering knuckle to keep it from falling. Bear in mind the it is youe entire brake disc assembly (a minor detail that the instructions do not advise first-timers of) that you will be supporting with your wire ... so use something heavy enough to spport this assembly.

haasman · #79 10-08-2004, 12:25 AM

Changing a 124 belt:

According to PSFred-

Quote:

With the fan off this is easy -- loosen 19mm bolt right beside the PS pump pulley, crank the tensioner down, slip belt off.

With the fan on this is almost impossible.

Fan is easy, too. Unclip shroud and pull up, then lean back over the fan. Bend a 45 degree elbow on the the end of a piece of coat hanger wire. Slip down between the "bumps" on the fan bearing, insert 8mm Allen into the center bolt on the visco clutch, turn until you get the wire into one of the holes on the clutch, loosen bolt. Remove bolt and fan, then shroud. Makes the job so much easier.

haasman · #80 11-08-2004, 01:14 AM

-put the dust boots on first: When replacing the front shocks and there is a dust boot at the top, often it comes off. It is easier to get it back on before installing the new shock then after.

-put a little lube paste on tab from the hub that goes into the shock. It makes the insertion much easier.

Haasman

Jeff Hartmann · #81 11-08-2004, 09:58 AM

Mercedes Mechanic beat me to the grinding compound in a worn phillips head screw to get a better grip. An aircraft mech ( they remove a lot of phillips screws ) taught me to break loose a stubborn screw by tightening to break it loose, this saves a sharp edge to back out the screw. Use a screwdriver bit on a 1/4" speed handle for better push and leverage.

Also, to avoid losing a finger or arc welding your twisto-flex, remove watches and rings before working on batteries or anything electrical.

haasman · #82 02-09-2005, 01:56 AM

To keep track of oil/filter changes as well as ATF/filter changes I made two stickers for each of my car's driver's door jams: oil/filter and ATF/filter.

I then make separate lables that go beside each of the above with just date and miles. I fold one end of the sticker onto inself to make it easy to remove at the next service.

Haasman

300holst · #83 02-09-2005, 01:17 PM

What a great thread! I'm always learning something from these. Here are a couple of things to add:

1. I found the ACC sensor up by the dome light, or wherever, tends to get coated with fine lint or dust and then doesn't react to temperature changes very fast. Use a spray electronics cleaner, marked safe for plastics, with the tube on the nozzle. Spray up into the grill over the sensor, let dry. Now your ACC will work much better.

2. Most Bosch relays develop fine stress cracks in the printed circuit soldering. Learn to solder then resolder these relays to make them as good as new, or better. Save big $$$.

EDIT: I spoke a bit too soon when I implied all relays can be opened up. The OVP on my car is not a Bosch and its base is crimped on. Maybe it could be opened but I think it would be damaged too much. It is marked "Made in Hungary". The fuel system relay isn't marked and is sealed with a soft rubbery material. I haven't tried to open this one but it looks like a possibility. You'd have to reseal to keep moisture out. I don't like the way MBZ has placed these relays and the computers where moisture can be a problem. I notice the shop has coated the relay pins with grease to prevent corrosion, a good practice.

haasman · #84 02-09-2005, 02:02 PM

Regarding the sensor up by the dome light, I have found putting a vacuum hose on it periodically does help removing the accumulated dust.

Haasman

lee polowczuk · #85 02-09-2005, 03:04 PM

This thread should be a "sticky"

haasman · #86 02-11-2005, 03:24 PM

With the old 190e several of the doors need a second attempt in closing. It seems over a period of time more effort (greater slam) is needed.

I mistakenly thought it was an improper location of the striker plate in the door jam.

An MBZ tech recommended cleaning the latch mechanism in the door that latches to the striker plate. His experience was that over the years, dirt and dried lubricant makes it reluctant to catch.

I removed the latch assembly through the inside of the door (after taking the door panel off) and thoroughly cleaned it. I then lubed all working surfaces and reinstalled.

The door now closes with a satisfying "factory new" thunk sound.

Haasman

Keep those tips, tricks and suggestions coming.

r_p_ryan · #87 05-05-2005, 11:27 PM

The fan blade on the M103 has an irregular spacing of the blades. Find the section that is much wider than the others and the cap is a lot easier to get off. Check out the pics about half way down in this article:
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/M103TimingCoverReseal

unkl300d · #88 05-06-2005, 01:25 AM

To replace the W123 door striker plate (and perhaps valid for other models)

Note that the plate with the threaded holes floats behind the door frame(jam). Not accessible if it drops down.
SO, get yourself a coathanger and cut three or four 7" straight pieces. Enough for each screw hole.

Bend a slight/shallow hook on one end. This acts as a catch and aligner, just in case.

Take one retaining screw out and insert the wire in far enough so that it stays in place. The shallow hooked end goes into the body and the straight end out toward you. The idea is to progressively do this same action with each screw removal in order to keep the internal threaded bracket aligned and where it is supposed to be. If it drops down I have no idea how you can get it back.

Slide out the faulty striker plate out over the straight wire ends.
Keep your wires steady to make sure that bracket does not fall down !

Do everything carefully in order to not loose your bracket!

Slide new striker over the wires via screw openings and begin re-assembly carefully removing one wire and attaching the screw into retaining bracket.
Use the hooked wire to position this floating bracket to screw threaded shaft. Screw in one at top and one at bottom.
Continue with the rest and don't overtighten because you want to align the new striker to the dirt shadow outline of the old one. (So don't clean the door frame after removing the old striker.)

Well this is how I did it.

Fun thread

THANKS

pmckechnie · #89 05-07-2005, 08:35 AM

Yesterday while cleaning the interior of my 91 300D using Lemon Pledge (don't laugh) and walking back inside with the pledge in my hand I sprayed some on my fog light lenses which are original with 300K miles of sand pits. Guess what, it took most of the fine pits and cracks out of the lenses. I'm sure it won't last very long, but makes them look much better. It will become part of my weekly cleanup routine.
By the way, you should try the Pledge on the dash and wood trim and what ever you are cleaning. It works great.

haasman · #90 05-07-2005, 11:43 AM

Plastic light covers that are clouded and pitted can often be refreshed by using a high quality fine automotive paint polish.

Haasman