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#1
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Slick 50 Synthetic Oil
Guys,
Anyone got any info on this oil? It looks like it's made by Quaker State, which isn't normally available in the UK, so we know nothing about it... Just seen this in my local parts place. SAE 5-40. API grade SH £14.99 for 4 litres, that's bloody cheap for a Fully Synthetic Oil. Could it be recommendable?
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Paul Gibbons '93 320CE '73 Jensen Interceptor (Resting) Giant Full Sus Mountain Bike |
#2
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I personally wouldn't use anything with the Slick 50 name.
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Ali Al-Chalabi 2001 CLK55 1999 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2002 Harley-Davidson Fatboy Merlin Extralight w/ Campy Record |
#3
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Slick 50 is nothing more than a scam. They have been accused and convicted in the USA for false advertizing, unprovable claims, deceiving the public with their marketing campains.
Save your hard earned pounds. JackD |
#4
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I agree, these guys are nothing but scam artists. Even the name sounds like something from a used car dealership
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88 300E 03 911 C4S 2008 Triumph Speed Triple My pics --> www.BrettAdamsDesign.com |
#5
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Slick 50 is a brand owned by Quaker State, which was acquired by Pennzoil several years ago.
Their original Slick 50 now also comes with 4 bottle of Quaker State dino oil (High Performance mark) and sells for $12. They also have the new Slick 50 Synchrotron that supposedly uses a synthetic oil as a carrier for their so-called PTFE suspensions. Teflon requires a temperature of 800 degrees Celcius in order to stick to a metal surface. If your car's cylinder head somehow reaches that temperature, that's its doomsday already. Teflon PTFE (-CF2CF2-) n (Polytetrafluoroethylene) is a polymer and it can block good oil filter element, causing oil starvation to your engine. If you want the best oil for your engine, use "pure" synthetic oil. Instead of buying $20 Slick 50 Synchrotron (one quart) and $5 for extra 5 dino quarts (6 quarts total), you can just buy 6 quarts of Mobil 1 or Valvoline SynPower synthetic oil for the same price. Eric |
#6
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Eric
Good advice! Haasman
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'03 E320 Wagon-Sold '95 E320 Wagon-Went to Ex '93 190E 2.6-Wrecked '91 300E-Went to Ex '65 911 Coupe (#302580) |
#7
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I second the vote for Mobil 1.
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Rick '85 380 SL (sold) '85 Carrera Flatnose '71 280 SL Signal Red/Cognac |
#8
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Teflon is made by Dupont. Dupont's engineers said that Teflon was never meant to be used in an internal combustion engine. The one of the many claims of Slick 50 is that it puts a "protective coating" on all metal parts. Let's think about this. Your engine has many small oil passages that are designed and drilled to be 'X' big. Now you go and add this "protective coating" you now have made that oil passage a little smaller. If the engine engneers wanted the passages to be that small, they would of made them that small.
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1999 MB SL500 (110,000 mi) 2004 Volvo V70 2.5T (220,000 mi) 2014 Tesla Model S 85 (136,000 mi) MBCA member |
#9
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Just use a major brand of oil, use the correct api and visc., change it at the appropriate internvel, if your engine should overheat, change the oil, there is nothing magical about keeping two metal surfaces from touching each other
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#10
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5W-40 oil is "probably" at least...
...partially synthetic, but probably 100%.
PaulG: I'd be a little concerned with the fact that it is API SH vs. an SJ or SL formulation, does your C-class call for an SH? Actually the oil could have Slick Willy himself's picture on the label and that wouldn't really affect what was actually in the bottle
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'91 420 SEL @ 199K, '92 SVX @ 181K, '93 SC400 @ 86K, '93 Kaw ZX-11 @ 30K, '87 F250 @ 181K , 2001 Valkyrie Interstate @ 6K, Y2K Honda NightHawk 250 with 1.5K, '88 420SEL I.@ 179K & the 2nd latest, an '88 420SEL II.@ 210K runnin' parts car, '85 F150 300/NP435 |
#11
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Slick 50 is actually a quart of Quakermistake, whoops I meant Quakerstate oil with the Teflon in it. As everyone knows, you should avoid mixing different brands of oil. Well unless you're doing an oil change using Quakerstate oil, you will be mixing oils.
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1999 MB SL500 (110,000 mi) 2004 Volvo V70 2.5T (220,000 mi) 2014 Tesla Model S 85 (136,000 mi) MBCA member |
#12
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Quote:
A few years ago while reading the accident reports in the back of Flying magazine, I came across an inflight engine failure. Inspection of the engine revealed that an oil passage was clogged with PFTE ("teflon"). The clogging occurred at the intersection of two passages, gun drilled normal to each other. Fluid currents had caused the PFTE to pile up in the corner finally restricting the passage to the point where a bearing seized due to lack of adequate oil flow. I made some inquiries, but was unable to find any FAA directives on the use of PFTE. PFTE is a stringy solid. The strings are too small to be trapped by the filter, but they can clog small passages. Bottom line is that PFTE is pure snake oil as an engine oil additive and should be avoided!!! As far as what oil to use in your car - look at your owners manual! Buy the required API spec or the latest iteration (currently SL for spark igntion engines) in a viscosity range that is suitable for the range of temperatures that your car will see on cold starts for the period the oil will be in the engine. Brand name is unimportant other than your faith that the brand is actually blended to meet the API spec. I am relatively confident that name brand oils are properly blended, and that probably applies to house brands too, so the issue comes down to price. Duke |
#13
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The choice of engine oil is similar to the choice of beer. Everyone has its favorite and will swear it is the best. But bottom line, any major brand meeting manufacturer's recommendation is acceptable. All can be mixed without any problem.
Some will want some fancy imported beer, some will swear by expensive synthetic oil with tons of additives. I've seen fairly new engines with major mechanical failures happening with high prices synthetics, and very old engines surviving over 300,000mi with cheap dinooil. I've also seen the reverse. Whatever fits your comfort level and wallet is OK, as long as manufacturer's recommendations are followed. JackD |
#14
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Good posts, JackD, Duke, Jack Baker, et.al. ...
I've seen too many oil threads where people explain in excruciating detail on which oil is best and how to use it. It's similar to listening to Frasier and Niles Crane discuss the nuances of whatever they're critiqueing.
It sometimes goes too far. I pity the newbies who post here looking for basic general direction on how to do-it-yourself with the oil changes. We need more common sense answers like yours to these oil questions.
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95 E320 Cabriolet, 159K |
#15
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Me again (the Thread-starter)
Thanks for all the advice, but what I didn't make clear is that this oil doesn't contain any PTFE at all, it is a 100% synthetic oil which has the Slick 50 brand name because "Quaker State" doesn't mean anything here. I guess what I'm trying to say is "if you were offered 4 litres of Quaker State synthetic oil (API SH) for £15 when Mobil 1 is about twice that, would it be a bargain?"
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Paul Gibbons '93 320CE '73 Jensen Interceptor (Resting) Giant Full Sus Mountain Bike |
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