Gentlemen,

I am about to replace the waterpump on my '86 300e.

I have replaced the tensioner, so I am familiar with the procedure to that point.

What is the best way to go about this and should I get any other pieces (ex.heater return line)that will be faulty or should be replaced during teardown?

Thanks in advance
JD

JD,
Here's one I really know about. Remove the tensioner, disconnect the HT lead from the coil, remove fan, fan shroud, remove serpentine belt, remove long bolts from PS pump and push it to the right out of the way. Remove upper radiator hose. Remove heater return line from the left side of the pump (Don't forget to replace that O-Ring). Just to be safe, remove the thermostat and check it. Depending on the miles, it might be a good idea to replace (Inexpensive insurance) it as well as the gasket (O-ring). Remove 4 capscrews holding pump to block. Clean mating suface on block. Reinstallation is pretty much the reverse of removal. Have a great time

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Jeff L
1987 300e
1989 300e
1987 BMW 325

[This message has been edited by jeffsr (edited 03-09-2000).]

There is bypass hose between water pump and cylinder head part number is 103 200 00 82 also replace the o ring at rear cylinder head
heter hose connector,the o ring is same size as the heater pipe to water pump.check your belt tensioner shock too.
hope this help.

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MB STARS Master Guild Technician,12 years MB tech
6 years independent shop owner

There is a secret to doing these that not many people know. You can buy a special tool from Snap-On called the FLX-13. It will get to all 3 of the 13mm bolts without taking any other part loose. You can leave the tensioner and the P/S pump in place. There are two secrets to taking it off. 1. Take off the two clamps on the small by-pass hose and slice the hose off. 2. Take out the 13mm intake bolt that is under the front side. It will be the first intake manifold bolt you can see on the bottom front. The pump will then roll out. I can do one in under an hour start to finish when I feel up to it....This is with my $40,000 worth of tools though. (And shop air for air tools)

For the o-ring that goes in the bottom use a dab of grease to hold it in place then smear a little on the block where it will slide together. Never use a sealer where there is an o-ring. Same goes for the thermostat. Replace it tooo. We have the parts!!!!

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Benzmac:
1981 280GE SWB
1987 16V
ASE CERTIFIED MASTER AUTO TECHNICIAN
SERVICE MANAGER FOR 14 BAY FACILITY
MERCEDES SPECIALIST 8 YRS
PARTNER IN MERCEDESSHOP.COM

Benzmac,

I hope the Snap-On man sends you a Christmas card each year. If he doesn't you need to call a meeting with him.

Have a great day,
Larry Bible

Hey folks, anyone know what an FLX-13 refered to in the previous posts? Cost? Thanks again........Scott

FLX13 is a tool number (like the part number, if you want to think of it that way) for this flexible extension from Snap-On tools. I don't know if you'd be able to buy this online or not from Snap-On. They may tell you to buy it from the local Snap-On distributor. Check the white or yellow pages in the phone book for Snap-On tools. You'll probably have to set a time to meet them at a shop someplace, they usually have a regular route they keep. Price I am not sure of, I'd guess 20 to 30 dollars though. the price may be available online. I'm sure the website is probably www.snapon.com not sure though. Great tools, last forever and a lifetime warranty if they don't.

Gilly

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Click here to see the items I have up for auction at EBay

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No need to purchase that tool. I used a 1/4 inch drive U-joint wrapped with electrical tape which allowed you to get at it at the proper angle. One of the most difficult fastener to remove is the top allen fastener where ther is only an inch and a half clearence. The tool wanted to "walk" out of the fastener head. I enventually got it buy using an allen socket held into the fastener head with much tensionwith a large screw driver and turning the exposed part of the allen socket with a box wrench. Good luck working space is limited.

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1990 190E 2.6
1996 Grand Voyager 3.3
1985 Mustang GT 5.0 5 SPD
1982 Suzuki GS 750T

LOL...That bolt came right out for me. Now I am battling the three hex bolts. I've been wrestling with the top rear one and it is SOME kind of tight! Haven't even touched the other two yet. Using 1/4 U-joint like here: water pump tools

I'm tempted to order up that snap-on tool about right now!

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2012 E350
2006 Callaway SC560

I just replaced mine 2 nights ago, and it wasn't that bad. Took me about 5 hours and I was taking my time. Everything on this car comes apart great! Except for the actual pump. The 2 rear bolts weren't the problem for me, neither was the top allen bolt. The tough one for me was the lower front bolt, obscured by the tensioner. I just removed the bolts from the tensioner but did not remove it completely - it was just enough to move it aside and get to that bolt. I didn't use the Snap-On FLX13, just a 13 mm socket and a combination of different length extensions, a wobble, and a U-joint. To hold bolts in the socket I used a piece of paper towel. I also removed the oil dipstick tube in order to reach the upper rear bolt with my hand and secure the socket / support the u-joint. I strongly recommend using a 6-point 13mm socket - with some of the weird angles, the socket isn't always perfectly seated and the 12 point socket might round off the bolt head. Then you'll have real problems getting it out!

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08 W251 R350
97 W210 E320
91 W124 300E
86 W126 560SEL
85 W126 380SE Silver
85 W126 380SE Cranberry
79 W123 250
78 W123 280E
75 W114 280

My brother in law is my tech at the MB dealership. He has only been doing MB's for a few years, so he hasn't seen a lot of the early 124's in there.

He said that the bottom bolts are Allens just like the top bolt. Is this true? He is a very good tech, but he has told me some things before about the early 300E that weren't exactly right. There again he admits he doesn't see many.

If they are hex bolts, I will buy the Snap On tool. It can be had online, and BTW, the exact part number is "FLXM13." I don't want to buy this tool only to find Allen bolts under there.

He was a diesel truck tech for about 25 years before going to the MB house. Yours truly is the one that got him onto MB's. After he bought a beautiful '86 300D, he started enjoying them so much he decided it might be worthwhile to work on something small.

He has an old non Snap On toolbox that is over 30 years old now, and looks terrible. They keep in a bay at the back of the shop because his toolbox is so old and ugly. But, when you open the drawers you find it packed with Snap On tools. I'm sure by todays prices there is something in the area of $40,000 worth.

In the course of this tour through the toolbox, he was showing me the handful of stuff that it takes to change all 12 spark plugs in my 203 C Class. I don't think I'm looking forward to that operation.

Have a great day,

That is what happened to me (1992 300TE, waterpump changed before by dealership in 2001). And I stripped the one on the lower right side... Fortunately it came out with a reverse drill. The FLXM13 still came handy when I installed the new 13mm hex bolts.
Regards, Bruno

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1992 300TE 160 kmiles

Benzmac, have you ever changed a water pump on a 1990 300 CE ? I found it to be a bad news replacement. Almost impossible to get to the 2 rear pump bolts. But this is from a first timer. I'm curious how much of a problem this job is for a Tech???????? And I'm sure at a steep price..

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Rich

1990 300CE
71 Chevelle SS 454

My pump had never been touched before per previous owner which I know very good, and it had 2 allen bolts top and bottom in front and 2 hex in the rear. Hope that is what your asking Larry Bible........

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Rich

1990 300CE
71 Chevelle SS 454

On my 1989 car it was four hex head 13mm.

The FLXM13 made it possible for me, although a good range of long, stubby ratchets and extension handles helped a great deal.

Just in case I was faced with allen bolts, I got some 1/4" drive allen keys and swivel end extension bars.

You can never have enough tools, but after 20 years of collecting it is finally getting easier

Good Luck, pace yourself and it is not too difficult a job.

Richard

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1989 W124 300E
1991 R129 500SL