Sixto,

Exactly what rod are you talking about? Is that the rod that goes from the knob down to the actuator... or is there another? I doubt it's the one I'm thinking of, as I'm sure you would have noticed the knob pull right out of the door.

Let me know.. .trying to track down a similar issue.

Thanks!

__________________
Willy

'94 E420 White

Mods
-------
Berg Werks Keyless Entry
Buzzer replaced with Chime
Dash Light Upgrade
Burlwood/Leather shift knob
Alpine CDA-9815 Head Unit
2002/2003 16" C Class 7-Spoke Wheels
Updated "Chip" to fix Code 19 problem

Willy,

The rod that was broken is item 14 in the last diagram in this thread. It has grooves at the bottom end which are clasped by the working end of the vacuum actuator. It has a hook at the top end which goes through a clevis at the bottom end of the rod that goes up to the lock button. Both rods meet at a bell crank that has another rod that goes to the lock mechanism.

I hope you have small hands and skinny arms if it's the lower rod that's broken in your car. If it's the top rod, it's a much easier job. If it's the rod that goes to the lock mechanism, I can't help you.

Sixto
95 S420
91 300SE
87 300SDL
83 300SD

OK, maybe I'm misunderstanding. I thought that #14 was the rod that connects the door lock knob to the actuator... is it not? At least that's what it shows on my parts sheet for my 94 E420.


And ... oh yea... I've been in the door once to check out the situation... it is TIGHT working room.

__________________
Willy

'94 E420 White

Mods
-------
Berg Werks Keyless Entry
Buzzer replaced with Chime
Dash Light Upgrade
Burlwood/Leather shift knob
Alpine CDA-9815 Head Unit
2002/2003 16" C Class 7-Spoke Wheels
Updated "Chip" to fix Code 19 problem

thread and while I read your explanation, I said to myself . . . it's the rod"!

Same thing happened to me last year: symptoms were identical. Interesting that rod breaks so easily. I think it was $1.39 and had to get the part from the MB dealer.

Well, look at it this way: we both learned how to remove the door. My coupe seems like it was easier but probably not much.

__________________
Regards . . . . JimF
-------------------
'94 S500 Cpe

Visit my Mercedes Web Page

Willy, I notice you have an E420 which is probably has a different lock mechanism from the S420. In the S420 the rod form the actuator is linked to the rod to the door lock button by they're separate pieces.

Jim, did you have to replace the rod blindly or does the coupe door allow you to see what you're doing? At least removing the actuator is a blind task in the sedan.

Sixto
95 S420
91 300SE
87 300SDL
83 300SD

same as yours: have to work partially blind. The door mechanical bracing doesn't give a lot of room.

To remove the door, I have one of those 'forked' tools: it does a great job of releasing the plastic snappers. The door comes right off. Mine has the hidden screw covered by felt in the door pocket: took a while to find that little goody!

__________________
Regards . . . . JimF
-------------------
'94 S500 Cpe

Visit my Mercedes Web Page

I'm glad they designed the door panel such that misdirected attempts to pry it off result in breaking the plastic retainers instead of tearing the slot in the door panel. A very welcome touch after the floppy door panels in just about every other car I've owned.

Sixto
95 S420
91 300SE
87 300SDL
83 300SD

Thanks for the information Sixto. I am having the same problem. Just ordered the rod to have before I tear into the door.

__________________
1995 S-350
370K + SOLD
1952 220B Cabriolet
39K kilometers + SOLD
1998 E300D
310K +
2012 E350 BlueTec
120K

I have a 1996 S420 and the drivers door will lock with switch and with remote, but will not unlock and the key in the door wont lock or unlock any door.

Now that i have the door panel off when i unlock the door i can hear a hissing sound which means i assume that I have vacuum door locks? and there is a leak there?

that sound right?

Brian

The locking tabs on the 2 piece vacuum pod are probably broken and the two halves have seperated causing a vacuum leak. The diaphragm usually doesn't rupture. This has happened to my wifes '95 S350. The job is doable but the working space is really cramped.

__________________
Joe Tripp
Mercedes Club member since '76
Continuous Mercedes ownership since '64.
'93 300SD 111,000 miles. Now has '99 E300 engine.
'94 S350 77,000 miles
'95 S350 148,000 miles.
'96 S420 159,000 miles.With '99 606 Diesel. Sold
'99 S600 one of 14 imported. Sold.
'89 Bentley 8 40,000 mi. Sold

what parts are needed and how/where can i verify that is in fact the issue and what do i look for? is it the white pod right under the door lock?

and would that have anything to do with using the key to lock and unlock? only the driver side has a key whole to enter a actual key...

it doesnt do anything when i turn it either way?

is there only 1 hose that locks and unlocks or is there a lock hose and unlock hose?

they did separate, and i was able to fix it...and was also able to fix the key issue, all good now!

thanks!

Apart from buying a whole door seat switch for $500 from Benz, is there another way I can obtain the missing two white rotating clips that secure the seat switch at the rear edge? Otherwise I'm reinventing the wheel by attaching it and gluing something from the inside of the door panel (no I don't ever want to remove it again)....You'd think Benz would sell these clips....Ebay units are all broken off. Does anyone know if the mirror electric cable unplugs somewhere inside the door panel? I need to install this backwards as well by connecting to the mirror first and then plugging it in last inside the door panel.

Update: Got a new wood piece from wreckers with good rotating clips, installed working great. Seems they went away from Zebrano wood with introduction of burl wood in 96 but same stain colour so not noticeable.