1986 190E 2.3 won't start

[leeb]

I have a 1986 190E 2.3 that doesn't start. The cold start valve gets fuel, it will start for a second but nothing after that. I removed the fuel lines from the top of the fuel distributor and see that nothing is coming out. I depress the plunger while cranking to see if any difference.....nothing comes out. What controls the release of fuel out of the FD? Is it the EHA ? Should some fuel be coming out at all.? I have replaced the fuel pump, (with a used one- seems to have sufficient pressure be really can't tell) and fuel filter.

[xp190]

There should be fuel pressure in the fuel distributor at all times as well as the fuel injector lines. Make sure that when you turn on the ignition you hear the fuel pump turn on for a second and then turn off. You can also disconnect the fuel like coming from the fuel pump to the FD and turn on the ignition, make sure the line is secured in a bucket or some sort of container to catch gas, to see if any comes out. If you hear the fuel pump turn on, but nothing comes out, check for pinched fuel lines.

Once you have fuel at the FD, let us know and we will go from there.

xp

[leeb]

There seems to be plenty of pressure. If a crack the connection at the inlet or at the outlet for the cold start injector, it squirts alot. The fuel pump is coming on. I released all pressure by diconnecting the line at the FD and then reconnected to see if pressure would be back and it was. It just doesn't come out the inector lines at the top of the FD with the lines off.

[haasman]

leeb

This is very interesting to me in that when I first considered the "project car" 190E it was running VERY poorly.

A mechanic friend recommended bleeding the injection lines at the FD, something that I had never had hear of doing before. He was right, I bled each several times until all the vile, disgusting stuff stopped coming out. The car ran quite well after that.

I then learned of the "double-dose" of Techron: Two bottles of fuel injector cleaner in less than a full tank of fuel. I ran the engine up and down in RPM for several minutes. I then heard a very weird muffled "thwup" kind of sound and since the engine purrs. Incredible.

OK, long-shot: Maybe using a very intensified dose of injection cleaner in the fuel with some way to allow the fuel to mix and circulate could dissolve the crude in the FD. Or at least enough to allow the lines at the FD to be bled.

I know, it’s a long short but costs a lot less than a new FD.

Keep us posted,

Haasman

[Mel Weaver]

Quick question! My '85 190E seems to run rough when tank under 1/4 full(I know better)
Last week in the heat I left it running for about 20 minutes-the car idled terribly, had NO power. I dumped injecter cleaner in, drove 1 mile to gas station/service station. Threw in some gas, asked mechanic what he thought.
This is where it gets good- "You're running on 3 cylinders-new distributor-bring it in tomorrow". O.K., I drive home..performance is getting better and better, 10 miles later it's back where it was originally!
Any ideas?
She's been fine since-unless I get below 1/4 tank. I'll try double dose soon.
Any ideas about warm temp erratic idle? When warm and just started the rpms go up and down from about 7 to about 15-this cycles about 4 times before it levels off.
Sorry! Not so quick after all. Just a comment on injecter cleaner magic !!
-Mel

[kjsabat]

You need to check OVP relay. It has a fuse on the top. If the fuse is blown, you will have problem starting up your engine. If the fuse is blown replace it and start the engine. If it blows again, repair short circuit. If the fuse is good you need to test the OVP relay. Disconnect plug from the ECU. Switch-on ignition, test voltage from plug term #1 to ground, it should be a battery voltage. If there is a battery voltage your OVP relay is good. Your problem is somewhre else and you will need to perform other test in order to troubleshoot your problem. If there is not a battery voltage, unplug OVP relay. Jump connector terminal 1 & 2. Test voltage on term # 1 of ECU plug, there should be battery voltage, if not repair open circuit. If you get a battery voltage at ECU plug term#1, test voltage at terminanls 5 & 6 on plug of OVP relay. If there is not battery voltage present, repair open circuit. In case when you will have battery voltage on terms 5 & 6 you will need to replace OVP relay.