Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Tech Help

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 07-05-2003, 11:20 AM
atikovi
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Where to buy Ingersoll-Rand air tools cheap?

Decided to invest in compressed air and want to find the best prices for some I-R tools. I checked around on line and the best I've found so far for a #2135 1/2 inch impact wrench and a #1103 air ratchet are $210 (with free shipping) and $117 respectively. Anyone suggest a place with a better price?

Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 07-05-2003, 12:08 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Suburban NYC
Posts: 57
Air Tools

Believe it or not, Wal-Mart sells air tools. Not Ingersoll-Rand to be sure, but some cheapie gerenic (Chinese) brand. Depending on how often you are going to use them, these may do the job...for a short time.
Or try Auto Zone for better (?) quality.
__________________
Stage Wizards Lighting and sound designer
1981 SD 328,000
1985 300TD, 266,000
1984 300 TD, 267,000
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 07-05-2003, 02:11 PM
jbaj007's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Santa Monica, CA
Posts: 2,053
Check here (not your specific model, but look for it here): http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Category.taf?CategoryID=321&pricetype=
__________________
The Golden Rule

1984 300SD (bought new, sold it in 1988, bought it back 13 yrs. later)
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 07-06-2003, 12:06 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: oregon
Posts: 2,013
unless you are a full time mechanic using air tools every day the discount store air tools in general are very good,and may well be one of the best buys of anything I can think of, but do not buy an inexpensive paint gun.......
William Rogers......
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 12-31-2004, 05:18 PM
Super Moderator
 
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Falls Church, VA
Posts: 5,318
Sorry to wake the thread up!

I am probably going to do a head r/r and a short block replacement in the next 30 days. Can you safely use an impact wrench to break the head bolts loose? I am thinking about the warning to only use the special sockets, but not even Snap-On makes a 10mm hex bit socket for impact wrench use. Would a 1/2" drive hex bit socket work?
__________________
Chuck Taylor
Falls Church VA
'66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 12-31-2004, 09:24 PM
afmcorp's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: NW Indiana LaPorte
Posts: 571
chuck what i do when i don't have the right hex wrench socket is i use a 10mm hex L wrench then use a 10mm socket. this way you make it, it then comes apart and the limit of size is almost endless. if you experience frequent dropping out of the hex wrench use one of those little magnet inserts this seems to help me.

this method does require keeping a "cheap" set of metric hex wrenches around but you can buy them for 4 or 5 bucks and the last time i bought a factory hex wrench socket from sears it was 10 bucks. so for 5 bucks you can make a whole bunch of sockets.
__________________
Thanks Much!
Craig

1972 350sl Red/Blk 117k
1988 420sel charcoal/Blk 140k
1987 420sel gold/tan 128k
See My Cars at:http://mysite.verizon.net/res0aytj/index.html

Pound it to fit then Paint it to match!

There is only First Place and Varying degrees of last!

Old age and deceit will overcome Youth and Enthusiasm every time!

Putting the square peg in the round hole is not hard... IF you do it fast enough!

Old enough to know better but stupid enough to do it anyway!
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 12-31-2004, 09:44 PM
afmcorp's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: NW Indiana LaPorte
Posts: 571
cheap IR air tools don't really exist. their quality line is very expensive as you can see. but try J & L Industrial Supply. i buy much of my machine shop supplies from them. they have an 800 - 521 - 9520. you can pay with a CC. go to their web site and look because they always have specials going in their red zone and IR shows up every so often.

but i would agree with the other gentleman that suggested using a lower cost brand [i would recommend LOWES because they will always be around] they are easy to find so if something does go wrong they will always be there. and unless you are going to be using these tools every day, day in day out it [as we do] it would seem more economical to use the xtra money and buy a wider range of tools.

at any rate j&l has a lot to offer. and just as a side note. we use right angle air sanders for detail work. after wearing out several "cheap ones" i bought an IR for like 6 times more $. well guess what.... yep snapped the front collet area right off. so i'm back to the cheap stuff!

i think their site is www.jlindustrial.com

tks
__________________
Thanks Much!
Craig

1972 350sl Red/Blk 117k
1988 420sel charcoal/Blk 140k
1987 420sel gold/tan 128k
See My Cars at:http://mysite.verizon.net/res0aytj/index.html

Pound it to fit then Paint it to match!

There is only First Place and Varying degrees of last!

Old age and deceit will overcome Youth and Enthusiasm every time!

Putting the square peg in the round hole is not hard... IF you do it fast enough!

Old enough to know better but stupid enough to do it anyway!
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 01-01-2005, 01:09 AM
wbain5280's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Northern Va.
Posts: 3,386
Quote:
Originally Posted by ctaylor738
I am probably going to do a head r/r and a short block replacement in the next 30 days. Can you safely use an impact wrench to break the head bolts loose? I am thinking about the warning to only use the special sockets, but not even Snap-On makes a 10mm hex bit socket for impact wrench use. Would a 1/2" drive hex bit socket work?
I wouldn't mind helping out, as long as it's not 30 degrees out.

How about using a breaker bar to loosen the bolts?
__________________
Regards

Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 01-01-2005, 04:03 AM
Saint's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 119
Hey there. I repair air tools for a living, but they are predominantly aerospace tools. They cost a whole lot of money, and fall under the economical to fix category.

Automotive air tools, by and large, are throw away tools. When they break, you toss them...but if you buy good ones, they can last you a really long time.

The best place to buy air tools is ebay, but this is a double edged sword. It is great for me because I pick up high quality tools pretty cheap, but they are often in need of some repair or other. Of course, you can always send me what you bought, and I can get it going for you.

I have some recommendations for you, and will give some notes as to why.

3/4 inch impact with 3/4 to 1/2 socket adapter. I prefer Chicago Pneumatic. This tool is a monster and will generate enough torque to remove near anything you can throw at it. Even the cheapys have a heavy hit. Great for removing overtight old lug nuts, rusted and larger nuts and bolts. NEVER use it to install.

1/2 impact. IR has a model 231, which I think is just about the best overall impact period. Not too expensive, kicks like a mule, and lasts. I have two in the shop, one extended, both have gone for years without needing any servicing.

3/8 impact. Personally, I use a very old IR, but any old unit will do here. 3/8 impact make excellent assy tools as they do not generate too much torque.

3/8 butterfly impact. I have one, rarely use it. It is supposed to get in those tight spots, but I find using wobble extentions works better overall. Also, I hate the trigger systems on these, as you cant help but activate the tool when you are just trying to get in position.

3/8 ratchet. To me, only one choice here. CP again, model 830...the one with the black plastic type handle. Great tool. If you can pick up a 7830, all the better.

1/4 ratchet. Again, only one choice here. CP again, model 826...the one with the black plastic type handle. BTW...sometimes these handles are in green, or blue.

A note about Chicago Pneumatic tools. When the model number is 3 digits, like 830, it means automotive line. When the number is 4 digits, like 7830, it means the industrial line. There is supposed to be a quality difference...not sure about that..might be...but you will see an amazing price difference. A tool like the rivet compression squeezer is often referred to as the "351", but it is technically a 0351, hence its 2500+ price tag. Back to the list....

Small die grinders...gotta have em. There is only one name in grinders....DOTCO....DOTCO...DOTCO. Do an ebay search on DOTCO and see what happens. There are two tools which you must have.

The 90 degree 10L1201B36. Make sure it is 10L and NOT 12L. You do NOT want that ergo garbage. Make sure it is 1201 and NOT 1200. 1201 is 20000 rpm, while 1200 is 12000 rpm. The 12000 rpm takes a finer gear and does not have the life span of the 20000. If you need this slower more torque speed for the sanding belt attachment, then you have no choice. Make sure you get the special head gear grease with injector, and this tool will last forever. THIS IS SPECIAL GREASE...DO NOT USE ANY OLD GREASE!!!!!Caveat...I have purchased many of these on ebay, and most required new gears at about 80 a set. Make the seller promise that there is no gear chatter. I sell these rebuilt for 165 dollars, but you can find them brand new on ebay for less. Go new if at all possible...and it will most likely come with the special grease.

The straight die grinder. My personal favorite is the 10L2000C01. The 10L2500C01 is a bit longer, and will give you a bit more torque, but it will also require a bit more air too. I think the 10L2000C01 is the perfect in the middle tool. It is bigger than the 10L1000, and smaller than the 10L2500C01, while giving you a nice amount of torque for its size. If you cant find a 10L2000, then go with the 10L2500. The smaller 10L1000 is really more of a deburring tool.

Air drill....go with the older Sioux 1450HP, 1452HP, or 1454HP. These tools were discontinued for the ergo garbage line, and might be a bit tough to find. They are the best IMHO air drill out there.

You can pm me if you need anything else. Its late right now, and I am sure I have forgotten something or another. I hope this info helps someone.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 01-01-2005, 09:16 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 51
I've mentioned this before in another post, but it bears repeating. I bought all of my air tools at local pawn shops. This is a very common item to find in a pawn shop. You can find some great bargains if you just look. IMO, air tools last virtually forever if they are good quality name brands. The cheap Taiwan stuff is to be avoided at all costs--even the stuff that has an American name. Anyone who tells you that Harbor freight stuff is any good is a dreamer. Why would you bother with that crap when you can find a used IR or Chicago Pneumatics for the same price or even less? I just bought a Chicago Pneumatics 1" impact gun for $85.00 at a pawn shop. It has more torque (and quality) than I will ever need and will be 'working" long after I am gone. I just don't see why anyone would want a new "cheap" tool, when a quality American used tool is available. Oh yeah, I expect to hear from the harbor freight addicts who say " I get a free replacement if it ever breaks". Great, you go get your free replacement--I don't need the guarantee, since quality air tools don't break.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 01-02-2005, 12:20 AM
brabus's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Dallas, Texas
Posts: 338
I have worked on diesels professionally for several years. First of all I would like to discredit what many of the previous members have recommended. There is tons of difference between a bargin priced air tool and an IR or otherwise respectable brand. Its better to get a used good brand than a new piece of junk. Remember that you can always buy a rebuild kit for a major brand air tool, so don’t be afraid to get a heavily warn snap-on or IR air tool. Ebay and pawn shops are a great place to find used quality air tools.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 01-02-2005, 06:11 AM
tvpierce's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Portland, ME
Posts: 612
The best value (not cheapest -- but best VALUE) I found on an impact driver was a Husky at Home Depot (believe it or not!). $99 for what is a very good quality tool w/ 500 lb/ft of torque. It's the same driver that Sears sells for $120 as a Craftsman, but it has a lifetime warrantee if you buy it at HD (only one year at Sears). I believe IR is the manufacturer.

HD, Sears, Wal-Mart, etc. all sell cheap crap in the $30-$60 range. They are cheaper, but they are a terrible value. You will be replacing these in the near future. At which time, you'll have spent more money than if you had bought the Husky.

Just my 2 cents... arguably worth that.

Jeff Pierce
__________________
Jeff Pierce

Current Vehicles:
'92 Mercedes 190E/2.3 (247K miles/my daily driver)
'93 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon (263K miles/a family truckster with spunk)
'99 Kawasaki Concours
Gravely 8120
Previous Vehicles:
'85 Jeep CJ-7 w/ Fisher plow (226K miles)'93 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon
'53 Willys-Overland Pickup
'85 Honda 750F Interceptor
'93 Nissan Quest
'89 Toyota Camry Wagon
'89 Dodge Raider
'81 Honda CB 750F Super Sport
'88 Toyota Celica
'95 Toyota Tacoma
'74 Honda CB 550F
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 01-02-2005, 09:18 AM
MikeTangas's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: So. Cal
Posts: 4,430
I have a Black and Decker 1/2 impact that I bought in 1978 for $50. Looks like hell after 26 years but still works great.
__________________
Mike Tangas
'73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP
Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72

'02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis

2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon TDI...at least its a diesel

Non illegitemae carborundum.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 01-02-2005, 04:49 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Matthews, NC
Posts: 1,356
Well, I have a different opion. In my shop I have a Snap-On 600ft\pn 1/2 in air wrench. It is used maybe 1 or 2 times a month. Day to day (all day) I use a cheap 1/2 in 200 ft/pn wrench I get at Northern Hydrolics for $19.99 on sale. Regular price is only $29.99. It is much lighter so is easer to use, is powerful enough for most anything we do, and is cheap. They will last about a year, then I throw it away ang buy another. The Snap-On is heavy, Has more power than is normally needed and cost somewhere around $300 (I forget the exact amount). For $300 I can buy 15 of the cheap ones and they will last me about 15 years. The same applies to my 3/8 air wrench and 3/8 in air ratchet and 1/4 in air ratchet. Die grinders are the cheap ones also. Air hammers are a completely different story. Get a good one.

__________________
84 500 SEL (307,xxx miles)
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:31 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page