I hope you are joking.
[I was]

Ok, I conceed, it was lame joke...

__________________
1986 300E 5-Speed 240k mi.

If you have used both, then yeah, thats probably fine.

But ok, so vacula sucks, well does it suck good, if it does, then Maybe Ill get that one.

It seems like the motive mighty bleeder is for someone that uses it a couple time in the product's lifetime.

I want something that I can use once a week or more.

"man, my hoover sucks so good it can pick up a bowling ball" Add some details you jokes will make more sense. I thought you were joking anyway.

Thanks,

__________________
Current Stable:
1994 S500 v140, 210k miles, white with grey.

Former Mercedes in the Stable:
1983 300CD Turbo diesel 515k mi sold (rumor has it, that it has 750k miles on it now)
1984 300CD Turbo Diesel 150 k mi sold
1982 300D Turbo Diesel 225 sold
1987 300D Turbo Diesel 255k mi sold
1988 300 CE AMG Hammer 15k mi sold
1986 "300E" Amg Hammer 88k mi sold (it was really a 200, not even an E (124.020)
1992 500E 156k mi sold
etc.

To be more specific:

I tried a hand actuated Mighty Vac, and it was too slow for efficient bleeding, and does not stand upright on its own. At least on the one I had, the reservoir was too small to do a whole system flush, and I overfilled it once by mistake. Once it got brake fluid in the mechanism, it never operated properly again.
Perhaps they have other models, but I gave up on them.

It was this 'SilverLine' model (like $80-90):
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&pwst=1&rls=com.microsoft:en-us&q=Mityvac+SilverLine&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&biw=1280&bih=863&wrapid=tlif131290923826510&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=isch&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi

Now looking around, I see they are also marketing a big vacuum transfer pump with the Mighty-Vac label on it. You will see this same unit with like 50 other brand names on it.
I have one that was packaged as an oil extractor (same, but no bleeder fittings). I have the manual one (not the pneumatic).
It sucked oil pretty well, but a 2-foot drop (empty, in its box) shattered the base, and split the container open. I was the clutz, but that seemed pretty weak to me. Never tried it for brakes because I have the Vacula. But hey, the pneumatic one has a different base under the container. Certainly cheaper than the Vacula, holds 6.5 liters, and can be used for other purposes.

http://www.google.com/search?um=1&hl=en&rls=com.microsoft:en-us&biw=1280&bih=863&tbm=isch&btnG=Search&oq=Mityvac+Fluid+Evacuator+&aq=f&aqi=&q=Mityvac%20Fluid%20Evacuator

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1986 300E 5-Speed 240k mi.

csnow

did you guys notice at 6.5 liters it will not hold a 4.2 or 5.6 litre motor. both these use 8 litre of oil.

i bought one that uses shop air from MSC. their ad said it held 5.5 gallons. when it came in it only held 5.5 litre. had to send it back. my liquid vac has a bad diaphram and cannot hold a vacuum so i'm looking for something right now.

can you tell me where you saw these 2 liquid extractors?

tks
craig

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Thanks Much!
Craig

1972 350sl Red/Blk 117k
1988 420sel charcoal/Blk 140k
1987 420sel gold/tan 128k
See My Cars at:http://mysite.verizon.net/res0aytj/index.html

Pound it to fit then Paint it to match!

There is only First Place and Varying degrees of last!

Old age and deceit will overcome Youth and Enthusiasm every time!

Putting the square peg in the round hole is not hard... IF you do it fast enough!

Old enough to know better but stupid enough to do it anyway!

From brakes to oil:

I got those images from http://tooldesk.com

No direct links. Search for mityvac.

This is not any sort of endorsement of this vendor, since I was just 'borrowing' pictures from them.
BTW, I noticed the pneumatic one has an 8.8 liter capacity.

There are a gazillion vendors for these things.
Harborfreight also carries some models on these.
They also have a 6.25 GALLON pneumatic extraction device for $130, but it looks like the actual 'fine print' capacity is 4.25 gallons:

http://www.harborfreight.com/6-1-4-quarter-gallon-oil-extractor-46149.html

__________________
1986 300E 5-Speed 240k mi.

Or if you're tired of hooking up special equipment, you can use this approach. I'll never go back.

http://www.speedbleeder.com/

Speedbleeders, I tried once, I did not like them.

I want to buy a brake bleeder for less than $500, but more than $200-300 that will do domestics and import cars including MB, BMW, VW/AUDI.

ANY new ideas

__________________
Current Stable:
1994 S500 v140, 210k miles, white with grey.

Former Mercedes in the Stable:
1983 300CD Turbo diesel 515k mi sold (rumor has it, that it has 750k miles on it now)
1984 300CD Turbo Diesel 150 k mi sold
1982 300D Turbo Diesel 225 sold
1987 300D Turbo Diesel 255k mi sold
1988 300 CE AMG Hammer 15k mi sold
1986 "300E" Amg Hammer 88k mi sold (it was really a 200, not even an E (124.020)
1992 500E 156k mi sold
etc.

I'm surprised nobody has mentioned the Speedi-Bleed pressure bleeder (which is NOT the same as Speed Bleeder). Using vacuum to pull fluid through is a bad idea as you almost always get air leakage around the bleeder screw nipples, and the resulting bubbles are a nuisance because you don't know if the lines are clear yet. MB dealers use a pressure bleeder. It works great, although when done you need to remove a little fluid from the reservoir with a turkey baster or something. Make sure you replace the rubber "buttons" on the m/c reservoir before starting or you could end up with a real mess if the old ones are cracked. I love mine, I'm annoyed that I used my MityVac for so many years - the Speedi-Bleed is much superior. You can still get the kit for German cars here for $40:

http://www.falcotools.com/


HTH,

__________________
Dave
Boise, ID
Check out my website photos, documents, and movies!

I still would recommend looking at the Motive Power Bleeder. Mine seems exceptionally well made. I don't see why it wouldn't last for hundreds of uses. $50 is a small investment -- so if it doesn't meet your expectations, you don't have much into it. I think you'll be pleasantly surprized.

Jeff Pierce

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Jeff Pierce

Current Vehicles:
'92 Mercedes 190E/2.3 (247K miles/my daily driver)
'93 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon (263K miles/a family truckster with spunk)
'99 Kawasaki Concours
Gravely 8120
Previous Vehicles:
'85 Jeep CJ-7 w/ Fisher plow (226K miles)'93 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon
'53 Willys-Overland Pickup
'85 Honda 750F Interceptor
'93 Nissan Quest
'89 Toyota Camry Wagon
'89 Dodge Raider
'81 Honda CB 750F Super Sport
'88 Toyota Celica
'95 Toyota Tacoma
'74 Honda CB 550F

The big advantage to the 'pull' (vacuum) method is that it fits any sort of car, truck, or equipment that you may need to bleed without reservoir adaptors and such.

My vacuum device has outlasted the ownership of so many disparate vehicles, that I find this to be an important consideration.

Any air that comes in around the bleeder valve is outside(and remains outside) the hydraulic system, so it is not really a problem.

This can make it difficult to distinquish between air that was in the system vs. air that came in around the bleeder.
A little silicone grease on the bleeder threads will prevent this.

__________________
1986 300E 5-Speed 240k mi.

Some cars with ABS can NOT be bled with the vaccum method, and require pressure to bleed properly. I believe this applies to all Mercedes with ABS. There are valves in the system that require pressure to move fluid through them, vacuum won't do it. It does work on most older cars though. I used the vacuum method for years, but after trying the pressure method, I'll never go back. It's that much better. For you guys who like to make stuff instead of buy it, here's some DIY bleeder articles that simulate the Speedi-Bleed kit:

http://p-car.com/diy/bleeder/

http://www.glue.umd.edu/~singletn/web/pages/bleeder.pdf


HTH,

__________________
Dave
Boise, ID
Check out my website photos, documents, and movies!

Bought a Vacula years ago and found it to be a PITA to use. I found another system made by Gravity. It was cheap and has worked well on all model cars that I have worked with so far.

Peter

__________________
Auto Zentral Ltd.

Ok, I really need to buy one soon. Like this week. Any more ideas?

__________________
Current Stable:
1994 S500 v140, 210k miles, white with grey.

Former Mercedes in the Stable:
1983 300CD Turbo diesel 515k mi sold (rumor has it, that it has 750k miles on it now)
1984 300CD Turbo Diesel 150 k mi sold
1982 300D Turbo Diesel 225 sold
1987 300D Turbo Diesel 255k mi sold
1988 300 CE AMG Hammer 15k mi sold
1986 "300E" Amg Hammer 88k mi sold (it was really a 200, not even an E (124.020)
1992 500E 156k mi sold
etc.

I don't know if it was this forum or another, but somebody mentioned bleeding without speedibleeders simply by running a hose from bleeder to jar, then cracking open the bleeder and pumping away at the brake pedal. Before, I used to use the two-man method, but now I've started using this one-man method and it works just fine for me. There's not a whole lot of slurp-back using this method.

__________________
95 E320 Cabriolet, 159K

Been there.
This actually works, at least on any car I have tried it on. Not by the book, but hey, in a pinch... Each time you let go of the pedal, some fluid/air goes back in, but not as much as came out on the previous stroke.

Just takes more strokes to get it done.

Best if you can use your hands to push pedal, or otherwise contort yourself in such a way that you can see when the air bubbles stop coming out upon depression. Also helps to crack the valve open as slightly as possible, so somewhat less comes back when pedal is released. (Crude check valve!)

Not absolutely sure this would reliably get all the air after 'upstream' work, like an MC replace, but works fine for 'wheel-side' components.

__________________
1986 300E 5-Speed 240k mi.