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  #1  
Old 08-27-2003, 10:14 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 14
Question Oily and carbonized spark-plugs

I've tried to search the forum for this exact case, but can't find my symptoms explained thoroughly.

So, I'll give it a shot

I have a MB 230 CE w124 '88 4 cyl. with a mileage of 158.000 km, or 98.000 miles.
Cylinder 1 & 2's spark-plugs gets oily (also on the threads), and after some time carbonizes and deposits build up. Cylinder 2 is most badly affected.
Cylinder 3 & 4 has its spark-plugs lightly carbonized.

What has been done the last 500 miles:
-Cylinder 2 ignition lead detected faulty and replaced (0 ohm).
-Replaced rotor and distributor.
-Measured all ignition cables.
-All spark plugs replaced.
-Replaced cyl 1 & 2 plugs once more do to build-ups.
-Replaced valve seals (on top of valve rods).
-Cylinder compression measured to 154, 167, 158 & 159 PSI indicating in fact that #2 cylinder (w/ most oil) has the highest compression.
-Oil changed at 10.000km (6.200miles) intervalls using semi-synthetic oil 10-40.

Now, I turn to you experts out there! What is wrong with my engine?

Would the GM X66 "wonder-solution" help in this case?
Some mechanic recommended some "Omega Oil Additive" that would do miracles... Any info on this?

Where could this oil be coming from?
Wouldn't the normal compression measurings indicate that the piston "seals" are tight? I guess that will prevent oil from a defective piston oil seal reaching the cylinder!?

Could oil get from any of the oil channels of the head without losing compression?

What about valve "steerings"?

And, finally, isn't this a bit early for a engine overhaul? Considering the 98.000 mileage?

Will be _very_ thankfull for any tips!!
Seems a faulty decision here might cost me som huge $$$

Anders Eklo - Norway.
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  #2  
Old 08-27-2003, 10:33 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Evansville, Indiana
Posts: 8,150
You have too much oil getting into the affected cylinders.

Could be valve guides worn -- 10,000km on semi-synthetic is probably too long, but still you shouldn't have that much trouble.

Do you drive short distances often? This can make the problem worse because you aren't burning off the oil completely -- it leaks down the valve guides when the engine is stopped.

I would also try some full synthetic oil and see what happens. It will probably burn off better and leave less residue, and may cause the valve stem seals to work better.

Otherwise, it sounds like a valve job.

Peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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  #3  
Old 08-27-2003, 10:41 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 14
Peter!
Thanks for your quick reply!

Yes, I usually drive short distances. And in winter also in cold weather (as we have some freezing winters here in Norway ).

Changing the valve guides, is that a job requiring a lot of special equipment (better left for the pros)?

Still open for any other suggestions
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  #4  
Old 08-27-2003, 10:56 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Evansville, Indiana
Posts: 8,150
Valve guide replacement will have to be done by a machine shop, I'd not try it at home.

You may need other work too -- worn valve guides usually mean worn valve since they seat off angle when the guides are worn.

Could be oil getting into the intake, too, though.

I always recommend driving a car long enough to get it completely warmed up in cold climates. I lived in Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario, Canada, so I know what you mean by cold winters!

You should only use the car if you can drive it long enough to get the interior completely warm -- this means everything else is, too. Oil won't circulate properly in a cold engine, and you get water condensing into the crankcase as well. It becomes acidic from combustion products, and corrodes things. Driving until the engine gets hot evaporates the water.

Peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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