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  #1  
Old 08-31-2003, 09:53 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 26
Talking w210 problem with starting

I have a 99 E320 with 54k. New battery. It does not start on the first attempt sometimes. I turn the key, no sounds, it acts like it has a dead battery. It does this may be every few weeks. Usually, when it does this I can get it to start on the second or third try. Couple of days ago it would not start at all. Had to call the road side assistance. The technician tryed for four or five times and could not get it started. He had to jump start the car. He told me it has to be an electrical problem. I took it to the dealership and they did an electrical check and they said that they could not find any problems and told me to bring it back when it does this again. It did it again today and it is getting very annoying. Does anybody else has this problem? Any suggestions?

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  #2  
Old 09-01-2003, 02:00 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Richardson, TX
Posts: 92
When you can't get it to start, does jump-starting it always work, or was it just a coincedence for the roadside tech?

I'm by no means an expert, but here are some things that I have read about in the forum that have caused intermittent starting problems. Search for these items.

neutral safety switch
crankshaft position sensor
knock sensor
fuel pump relay

Good luck. Post the results when you get it solved.
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  #3  
Old 09-01-2003, 02:33 PM
haibert88
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you should not jump start

you should not jump start your car. you have commited a wrong doing, much like rape. you have raped the car's insides, specifically the electronics.

you must face time behind bars.
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  #4  
Old 09-01-2003, 08:14 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 26
Thanks for your reply. The technician did the jump starting as the last resort. Is it possible that there might be a problem with the electronic key?
I am not too happy with the service department. From what they told me they work on a "flat rate", They get paid for half an hour by Mercedes to diagnose the problem. They connect the car to the computer and if they don't get any error codes, they assume there is no problem. would any of the things that you mentioned show an error code?
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  #5  
Old 09-02-2003, 10:21 AM
MrCjames's Avatar
California Dreaming
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 599
No-Start basics

Hi

A couple of tests can be performed to ensure you have current carrying capacity through the negative circuit of the system. The time involved to perform these tests should be < 30 minutes. If you have a digital multi-meter you can perform the tests. You may need to perform the same tests on the positive side but we’ll focus on the negative side for now.

1. Voltage drop test between battery negative post and the body ground. Pick a location other than the cable anchor point.
Meter--positive lead to post, negative lead to body

2. Voltage drop test between the battery negative post and the engine ground. The lifting eye on the front of engine is good.
Meter--positive lead to post, negative lead to engine.

Criteria:

Fuel Pump(s) disabled
Starter motor operating/demand

Test Results:

< 500mV

Keep us informed!


positive lead to post positive lead to post
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  #6  
Old 09-02-2003, 10:31 AM
DR.DIESEL's Avatar
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Puget Sound, Washington St.
Posts: 522
I would be willing to bet there is a fault with the "start authorization" of the EIS ignition switch. Do you have a different
Key? If so, try using it for a while and see if the problem goes away. When the dealer checked the car, did they find any DAS
codes stored in the system?
Some times the transponder chip in the key will give you real grief and then work all of a sudden.


The L5 crank position sensor is known to cause issues with starting or lack there of. The connector can get moisture in them
and cause trouble. The flywheels also need special grease in some cases with starting issues.
The starter will nick the ring gear on start attempt and cause it to vibrate, these vibrations are picked up by the crank sensor and
recognized as about 14-1500 rpm. this causes the starter to cancel. Usually, the tach will jump or bilp when this happens.

Good Luck and sorry your dealer has issues.
DR.D
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  #7  
Old 09-02-2003, 11:54 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Houston
Posts: 131
start problem

I have had problems starting occasionally, and noticed that when it happened, I was parked on incline with the front nose up. (once I even changed to nose down and it started). Now I am careful to park nose down. Anyone with similar experience?
__________________
RH

16 GLC300
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  #8  
Old 11-22-2004, 02:15 PM
Dimmi
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I have the sam problem with my E280 1996. Have you found any resolution ?

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