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  #1  
Old 09-05-2003, 06:59 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Old Lyme, Connecticut
Posts: 3,596
CV Joint Failure on 190E 2.3-16

Need Some Help!

My son is away at school with his 1986 190E 2.3-16 and called last night to tell me the clutch had failed on the car. His described the event as a "Pop!" followed by some metallic knocking as he tried to pull away from a stop. He also noted the transmission would go into gear but the car failed to move with the clutch engaged (foot off the pedal). So, the car stopped and would not move under power anymore (it rolls around nicely though as he had to push it into a parking spot). This sounded a bit strange for a clutch failure so I had him put it in gear and start the car, then with the car in gear and going nowhere, he got under the car as best he could to look around at what might be making the noises. Lo and behold, the noise was coming from the half shaft stub on the driver's side, which had fallen out of the rubber boot.

I ordered a new half shaft from Phil at Partsshop today, and I am wondering what else I will need to replace the half shaft. I am also wondering if anyone here has performed this task and can give some advice. It looks pretty crowded in there and if there is a special sequence to doing this please share it with us. Also, are there any special tools I can't get at Sears required? By the way, I did a search on this and got some good descriptions, but all on W123 and W126 vehicles. No W201s, and very little on a W124.

Thanks in advance, Jim
__________________
Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)
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  #2  
Old 09-06-2003, 09:38 PM
Moderator
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Old Lyme, Connecticut
Posts: 3,596
Well,

I consulted the local dealership shop experts and found the W124 and W201 assemblies are the same. I have a W124 CD, and after a few hours of searching I found a chapter for removing the half-shaft at the wheel hub and another chapter for removing the half-shaft at the differential. The tools needed are a 30mm, 12 point socket and either an M10 or M12 twelve point socket driver (like an Allen wrench for hex head sockets, but for an M10 or M12 twelve point socket head cap screw). I found the 30mm, 12 point socket at Sears, and bought it. Sears did not have the 12 point M10 or M12 drivers.

I have looking on-line for these tools and have not been able to find a source. Anyone know of a good source for these kinds of tools? I need to have the tools in-hand by this weekend as my son and I will be attempting the repair then. Any sources will be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Jim
__________________
Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)
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  #3  
Old 09-06-2003, 11:33 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2000
Posts: 376
I believe you can order the allen socket from Performance Products in Ca. There is always Snap On is you don't mind the price, but both probably are not going to help you this weekend.

I am trying to remember when I replaced the rear bearings on my 87 16V. If I recall correctly, the axle nut had never been removed and was a mother to get off even with my 250 ft lb air wrench. Took a several blasts before it finally came loose. That is only the begining.....

What end failed??? If it is the inboard side that attaches to the diff, TRY, TRy, TRY TRY to just remove that end of the axle and see if you can remove just the C.V. joint. Might just be a circlip that holds it on the axle.(?) and you can simply replace that end.

I might be wrong, but if I remember correctly and can explain, the rear bearing has two races pressed together in the center and either the flange holds both together or one end and the axle hold the other. There is a possibility that if you press out the stub alxe, one half of the race will come with it and you will have to buy an $80 bearing. I might be wrong!!!!!

Let us know what you find. How much was the axle?

Tinker
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  #4  
Old 09-06-2003, 11:49 PM
Moderator
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Old Lyme, Connecticut
Posts: 3,596
Tinker,

The end by the wheel failed - the exposed shaft just broke off inside the boot and fell out. I am not sure what caused it, but my local mechanic has indicated this is not rare - not a daily event but he has seen it a few times. I have not been able to get there to see it, as I will be doing the work with my son next weekend. I will try to take some photos and show them once the job is underway.

The new half-shaft from Partsshop was $285. Shipping was free. I will try the sources you suggested. I went to the Snap-On Tools website and they have items going by the name of triple square and double hex, and they do not list M10 and M12 as sizes. They only show 10mm units and smaller. We have a Snap-On guy in town and I will chase him down tomorrow I think.

I have looked the procedure over on the CD. It suggests the rear wheel bearing is captured between the rear axle shaft flange (at the bearing inside diameter), which has the splined interface with the half-shaft and bolt circle to attach the wheel, and the wheel carrier (outside diameter of the bearing). To get the wheel bearing out you have to remove the half-shaft and then somehow pull the rear axle shaft flange out. At that point you can pull the bearing out of the wheel carrier.

I will try to get some photos of the procedure if it is practical. Lying on the ground with the car on ramps or jackstands will not make taking pictures all that interesting.

Thanks for the sources. Jim
__________________
Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)
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  #5  
Old 09-07-2003, 12:08 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2000
Posts: 376
Jim,

I found an old picture I posted. Looks like you should be ok with removel with out damaging the rear bearing.

Do a search with my name and look for a title concerning rear end noise. I posted a picture of the rear carrier and it came off without damaging the rear bearing. However, I managed to damage the bearing replacing the dang bushing!!!!

Tinker

Last edited by Tinker; 11-14-2003 at 05:41 PM.
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  #6  
Old 09-07-2003, 03:45 AM
Meza's Avatar
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: SC
Posts: 148
If you have a carquest auto part store in your area go there as they have the 12 point you're looking for.
Good Luck,
Meza
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Meza
1993 190E 2.6
Advanced Diesel Systems Test and Research Engineer
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  #7  
Old 09-07-2003, 11:26 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Norfolk VA
Posts: 142
CV tools

I'm in the process of pulling the half shaft on my daughter's '87 300E and also ran into the tool dilema.

The 30mm axel nut was a piece of cake. Just tapped the axel end with a hammer handle and it was loose.

On the inner sides, one side had the 12mm 12 point internal bolts and the other had E12 (external torx)... go figger?

I found all the tools I needed at my local Autozone. The internal 12 point (aka triple square) set (6,8,10,12mm) was only $12.99. The E12 torx bit was $3.99.

My manual also says that the exhaust needs to be lowered on the driver's side to make room for half shaft removal.

We're heading off to do some mountain biking today. Maybe get a chance to get into it later today.

I'll check back in when I get into it. Not absolutely sure where the noise was coming from, but all indications were the left half shaft.
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  #8  
Old 09-07-2003, 12:26 PM
Moderator
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Old Lyme, Connecticut
Posts: 3,596
Guys,

Thanks for the input and I am off to the local Autozone. I think there are some CarQuest Auto Parts places local also, so I will be checking them too. I found a single Snap-On "double-hex" bit at 8mm, and a "triple square" one at 10mm. The manual suggests I may have M10 or M12. So, I am off to find the M10 and M12 bits, and now a E12 Torx socket. Thanks for the help, Jim
__________________
Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)
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  #9  
Old 09-07-2003, 04:02 PM
Moderator
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Old Lyme, Connecticut
Posts: 3,596
Got the tools at Autozone!

I was pretty surprised to see Autozone carries these wrenches while Sears and Snap-On seem not to. Anyway, got the set of 4 12 point socket head drivers, a pair of 1/2 drive sockets for them, the E10 and E12 Torx sockets, and a load of WD-40. Should be lots of fun. Thanks again for the help finding the tools, Jim
__________________
Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)
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  #10  
Old 09-07-2003, 08:11 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Norfolk VA
Posts: 142
After a good day of mountain biking with my daughter, I got into her 300E. Pulled the half shaft, opened it up and everything looked and felt fine.

Turns out it was the LR wheel bearing. With the car jacked up there was quite a bit of play. Any previous wheel bearing failures that I experienced seemed to have a relatively consistent noise. This only was noticeable under load, hence the thought that it was a CV joint.

Oh well, time to fix a good dinner. Pull the carrier, etc., order parts and fix another day.

BTW, glad you found the tools at Autozone, JimSmith!!
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