HI all,

I have a lifter that is not happy and ticks on start up (70%) of the time and sparadically ticks after that. Definately less after warmed up and oil has been flowing. Very infrequent after complete warm up.

I am not sure on how to find exactly which lifter it is.

Any advice on how to find the exact lifter?

Also, any points of interest when replacing? I will tackle within the next week or so.

Thank you in advance for the help.

Joel

I've used a mechanic's stethescope, actually a converted yard-sale doctors scope retrofitted with an old antenna mast...or you could use a screwdriver held tight to the valve cover. This was on a 76 450SE with aluminum valve covers, V8, so may not apply to yours. Get someone to start it up while you listen for which side it's coming from, then use the tool to narrow it down to the area where it's loudest. From there, follow the shop manual procedure for checking individual rocker/lifter. On mine, you pressed down on the lifter end until you found the one(s) with no or little resistance (not pumped up with oil) after the engine had been running for a minute or so, I think. I also made up a special tool (copy of MB tool) to remove the rocker and allow you to unscrew the lifter. Hope this is relevent to your engine.

__________________
1986 560SL
2002 Toyota Camry
1993 Lexus

Before you tear into the engine consider a supplement that claims to free sticky lifters. For about five bucks it's probably worth a shot.

Another alternative is to use a HD diesel engine oil (API service categorty CI-4) like Chevron Delo, Shell Rotella, or Mobil Delvac. These oils have a higher dose of detergent additive than oils blended for spark igntion engines (API SL) and have been reported to free sticky rings and lifters.

The common multi-viscosity grade for these oils is 15W-40.

If a lifter taps all the time its probably collapsed and needs to be replaced. If it only taps mostly when cold, it's probably partially clogged and might free up with a heavy dose of detergent.

Duke

When I Worked for Mercedes ..Drain out a Quart to a quart and a Half of Engine oil and Add a Quart of Any Brand ATF drive for 1000 miles and It will be gone
The Lifter is Plugged with dirt or Some other type of Sludge
I Would step up the Oil changes

Thanks,

I will try the additives, tried once before, but did not work.

I'll try the specific suggestions though.

I would rather easy fix than complicated.

Only happens at start up and infrequently after that.

Does appear to be more clogged than collapsed, as the tick does go away the majority of the time.

Thanks again,
Joel

Funny thing, I yelled at wife the other month for adding ATF instead of engine oil to her car. Ironic that I'd be intentionally adding to my car.

Joel

I know that with the M103 there are 12 but I would consider replacing them all. I recently replaced all 8 in my M102 (190E) to solve the problem of intermittently noisy lifters during warm-up. They are in-expensive and easy to replace. If one or two are failing now, it is possible that others will follow. I believe replacing all is money well spent.

__________________
107.023: 350SLC, 3-speed auto, icon gold, parchment MBtex (sold 2012 after 29 years ownership).
107.026: 500SLC, 4-speed auto, thistle green, green velour.
124.090: 300TE, 4-speed auto, arctic white, cream-beige MBtex.
201.028: 190E 2.3 Sportline, 5-speed manual, arctic white, blue leather.
201.028: 190E 2.3, 4-speed auto, blue-black, grey MBtex.
201.034: 190E 2.3-16, 5-speed manual, blue-black, black leather.

thanks for the input

would suck to haVE to re-do if replaced a couple and noise continued

joel

Hi,

Certified Benz mech. at reputable dealer has diagnosed sticky lifters and suggests replacement. Benz 1995 320 wagon has about 67k miles and I wonder if I should opt to have timing chain replaced at same time. Cost quoted is nearly $1700 and judging from inexpensive lifter parts seems like no bargain, but I'm unable to do the repair myself.

Starting the New Year:

__________________
Bean
1995, E320 Wagon, Emerald Green, 68k

Are you unwilling to explore other options, such as the ones listed above, or perhaps a second opinion on course of action?

For $1800 a few years ago, I got a valve job, T-chain and a bunch of other parts. Please go to an independent shop.

I am not a dealer-hater like a lot of folks (I actually think they are very professional and helpful) but they just can't compete on price.

Ask someone to recommend s hop for you in the appropriate forum.

__________________
'90 300SE 298k
-300K and it gets put into retirement.
'80 300D 255k Purchased new by family in 1980.

Had a:
1973 220 (gas)
1980 300SD
1992 400E

Fahrgewehr2--

Sound advice to seek 2nd opinion and that of an independent. I did so and there is approved formula for German motors(did not get the name, but not Rislone) which may help settle down the lifters. Seems like sensible approach given mileage of car- 68k- and gentle use. I'll report if this solves the problem and saves me a bundle!

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Bean
1995, E320 Wagon, Emerald Green, 68k

Take a piece of garden hose 2 ft long , or heater hose and put one end to your ear and move the other end around the top till you find it, you will be surprise how easy it is.

Duke,
Great advice. I have an intermittant lifter tap on start-up. I've thought about switching to a diesel oil but have read that they may clog up the catalytic converter -- is this true? Is this time-related, e.g. OK to use for 5000 miles in a gas engine to free a lifter, but then need to switch back to a non-diesel oil?

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Steve
'93 400E

Oil that is currently rated for Diesel use (Delo 400) is compatiable with all gasoline engines. I have used it in my truck for years and took Larry Bible's advice and run it in the Coupe now. There has been a lot of discussion about the cat's clogging and it is a myth.

Cheers,
Steve

__________________
97 S500 Coupe 139Kmi.
92 300CE 150Kmi. Sold
89 F250 Diesel 220Kmi. Dead
98 GMC 1500 160K.

Certain oil additives are known to degrade catalysts. That's why some additive concentrations in modern spark ignition oils have actually been REDUCED from prior API versions, but I don't see any problem using a CI-4 oil for an oil change interval or two, especially if the engine has reasonable oil consumption. I believe some on this board have swtiched permanently to CI-4 oil on their gas engine Mercs.

I use CI-4 oil in my vintage cars that don't have catalysts, but continue to use SL oil in my modern cars with catalysts.

Duke

Thanks, Steve and Duke! Very helpful info.

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Steve
'93 400E