Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help




Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum > Technical Information and Support > Tech Help

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 10-03-2003, 12:14 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Texas
Posts: 303
Can I Turn My Rotors Even.....

...after I have put new pads and drove it 200 miles and still use the same pads??? Reason??? sqeal (even if I applied the anti-sqeal gooo on the pads)

It's a 94 sl500 and it's the rear brakes doing it. Worse in the mornings. Thanks for all the help.

PS: I have PBR pads on and the car has 44K miles . Rotor history- unknown -I'm assuming it's original equip.
__________________
a2


1978 280 CE silver
1986 560 SL black
1987 300 SDL cream
1994 SL 500 brilliant green
1997 E 300d dessert silver
2005 FORD F250 Superduty Crew cab 4x4

____ADMU____
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 10-03-2003, 01:46 PM
I told you so!
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Motor City, MI
Posts: 2,791
Yes, it's not a big deal as long as the old surface isn't too grooved. Check mounting surfaces of the rotor for excessive debris to make sure the rotor turns true. Keep in mind MB rotors don't have a lot of stock for turning. Measure the old rotor thickness.
__________________
95 E320 Cabriolet, 140K
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 10-03-2003, 04:01 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Texas
Posts: 303
Thumbs up great

... do I need to scuff the pads as well? The old rotors seem to be thick and not warped(sp?). Anyway , doing it this afternoon to get it ready for turning tomorrow... thanks
__________________
a2


1978 280 CE silver
1986 560 SL black
1987 300 SDL cream
1994 SL 500 brilliant green
1997 E 300d dessert silver
2005 FORD F250 Superduty Crew cab 4x4

____ADMU____
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 10-03-2003, 04:13 PM
I told you so!
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Motor City, MI
Posts: 2,791
Some people might recommend it. I'm not that fussy. The pads should wear into the proper mating pattern with the rotor in short order. Just take it easy for the first number of stops. The rears aren't as demanding as the fronts for stopping.

Tip: Put a light coating of neversieze on the rotor mating surfaces before installation to help with rotor removal at the next brake job.
__________________
95 E320 Cabriolet, 140K
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 10-03-2003, 08:42 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Matthews, NC
Posts: 1,356
Had the same problem on my old 500 SEL. Nothing seemed to work. I finally fixed the squeel by installing shims between the pads and caliper. Got the shims at Pep Boys real cheap and they had them in stock. If turning the rotors doesn't help (it didn't on mine) then try the shims.
__________________
84 500 SEL (307,xxx miles)
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 10-03-2003, 09:06 PM
Bud
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
MB doesn't recomment turning rotors. I suspect your problem is with the pads. Are they OEM pads with shims? If not, you'll need the shims and you should also put anti-squeal compound on the edges of the pads if they are the type held in with pins.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 10-03-2003, 11:30 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: oregon
Posts: 2,013
new rotor cost hardly any more than having them turned the surface will be better and less chance of warpage. I had squealing problems on both my 126's till I went with ATE pads,both have ATE calipers and rotors......check Fastlane you'l be suprised how inexpensive they are.......
William Rogers........

Last edited by william rogers; 10-04-2003 at 03:29 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 10-04-2003, 01:41 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Joliet Illinois
Posts: 309
Squealing Pads

A guy at a parts couter once told me a trick they used when he used to work at a brake shop.

They filed a 45 degree bevel on the leading and trailing edges of the pads. The bevel should be about 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch deep. It stopped my sqealing brakes and I have been doing it ever since whenever I put in new pads. Wear a dust mask, especially with the PBR's (which, incidentally, are good pads in my opinion) because they probably contain asbestos.

I think the bevel helps to stop the pad from "chattering" against the rotor when braking. Anti-squeal goop should be used too but it will not be effective if the brake pads are chattering badly.

John
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 10-04-2003, 10:13 AM
Moderator
 
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Gainesville FL
Posts: 6,844
Getting the right pad composition is the first step in conquering squeeking brakes. The face of the rotor can often aquire the results of overheating and pad degredation.

As mentioned mB doesn't recommend turning and the discs are so cheap you will have a hard time getting them turned much cheaper. If you do not have a run-out or thickness problem the squeek can be handled by rough sanding the surface layer and OE pads.

PBR "Delux" not "Metal master" pads will usually do the job but preparing the surface is the solution.
__________________
Steve Brotherton
Continental Imports
Gainesville FL
Bosch Master, ASE Master, L1
33 years MB technician
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 10-04-2003, 12:02 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Evansville, Indiana
Posts: 8,150
PBR pads will scream all the time if used only on the rear -- you need to put them on the front, too (or so I've been told) and you MUST use the antisqueal shims to eliminate the noise.

I prefer to use OEM pads. Yeah, you get more trake dust, that's a pain, but they stop wonderfully and never squeal.....

Peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 10-04-2003, 01:10 PM
Bud
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
If you go to Fastlane and check, you'll see that PBR pads are different from all the other pads (which are all alike).

IMHO, the problem is the pads.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 10-06-2003, 11:42 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Texas
Posts: 303
I believe the rotors might be the culprit. The main reason I changed the pads in the first place was the sqealing at the rear wheels(with OEM pads). So, after changing ALL the pads, the rears still sqealed. I will "roughen"up the surface of the pads when I re-install them with new rotors. And maybe put a 45 degree on the edges as well to really avoid the noise. Thanks for all the input.
__________________
a2


1978 280 CE silver
1986 560 SL black
1987 300 SDL cream
1994 SL 500 brilliant green
1997 E 300d dessert silver
2005 FORD F250 Superduty Crew cab 4x4

____ADMU____
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:53 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2011 Pelican Parts - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page