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  #1  
Old 11-03-2003, 05:38 AM
johan6504
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Removing lower timing chain cover on my M104??

Hi
I have been active in benzworld before but havenít been able to get a good answer on this question.
I have an oil leak in the lower part of the timing chain cover. I have been able to fix the head gasket and the top part of the cover but can figure out how to get the lower part off. The major problem seems to be the removal of the damper wheel (the wheel with the TDC mark). Does any one of you know how this is done?

Regards
Johan Lundberg
Sweden
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  #2  
Old 11-04-2003, 10:49 AM
johan6504
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Question The oil is pouring out of the car, I could certainly use some help here.

I am getting a little desperate
Johan Lundberg
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  #3  
Old 11-04-2003, 12:44 PM
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I don't know about the damper itself, but I know that the crankshaft pulley nut is torqued to over 250 lbs-ft. i would think that you;d need a substantial gear puller to get the damper off as well.
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'94 W124.036 249/040 leder; 8.25x17 EvoIIs
'93 W124.036 199/040 leder; 8.25x17 EvoIIs, up in flames...LITERALLY!
'93 W124.036 481/040 leder; euro delivery; 8.25x17 EvoIIs
'88 R107.048 441/409 leder; Euro lights
'87 W201.034 199/040 leder; Euro lights; EvoII brakes; 8x16 EvoIs - soon: 500E rear brakes
'70 R113.044 050/526; factory alloys; Euro lights
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  #4  
Old 11-04-2003, 02:53 PM
johan6504
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Best way to stop the engine from turning while removing the crankshaft pulley nut?

In what way can I stop the crankshaft from turning so that I can remove the crankshaft pully not? And what tools do I need to remove the damper wheel (is that the proper name ?)

Regards
Johan Lundberg
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  #5  
Old 11-04-2003, 03:32 PM
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Location: British Columbia, Canada
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it's called a vibration damper and if it doesn't slide right off you'd probably need to use a gear puller of some sort to pull it off of the shaft.

the only way to prevent the crank from turning is to lock the flywheel by placing a metal bar between the teeth of the flywheel and the engine block in such a way as to prevent the flywheel (and in turn, the crankshaft) from turning. pretty easy to do with the engine out of the car, but i've never tried it with the engine in.

you'd have to see if there's an inspection hole in the bell housing that would give you access to the flywheel ring-gear.

you'll also want to have someone around to help you with this.
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'94 W124.036 249/040 leder; 8.25x17 EvoIIs
'93 W124.036 199/040 leder; 8.25x17 EvoIIs, up in flames...LITERALLY!
'93 W124.036 481/040 leder; euro delivery; 8.25x17 EvoIIs
'88 R107.048 441/409 leder; Euro lights
'87 W201.034 199/040 leder; Euro lights; EvoII brakes; 8x16 EvoIs - soon: 500E rear brakes
'70 R113.044 050/526; factory alloys; Euro lights
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  #6  
Old 11-04-2003, 03:54 PM
johan6504
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Is the turning of the crank nut the normal way?

Just want to be sure I try to pull it off in the right direction:-)

Regards
Johan
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  #7  
Old 11-04-2003, 04:09 PM
engatwork's Avatar
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Location: Soperton, Ga. USA
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It is the normal way. There is actually a tool made to hold the flywheel from turning but it is over $100 at the dearler. If you need the tool p/n I have it at the house and can post it later.
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  #8  
Old 11-05-2003, 03:43 AM
johan6504
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Would it be possible for you to post a picture of the tool?

Thank your all for your help!
I am finally starting to believe that it is possible to remove the wheel and fix this nasty leak at the lover part of the timing chain cover.
Any other suggestions on how to best seal this leak? I have already changed the head gasket and resealed the upper timing chain cover. This should/might be the last leak, all fingers crossed.


Regards
Johan Lundberg
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  #9  
Old 11-05-2003, 04:04 AM
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use RTV sealant to seal the timing cover. you'll also want to see if there is a paper gasket available for your model.

run a bead of RTV aroung the mating surface of the timing cover, spead the RTV so that the entire surface is coated (don't spread it too thin. too much isn't good either).

do the same to the other mating surface on the block and place the paper gasket on one side or the other (the RTV should hold the paper in place).

carefully (so you don't shift the gasket) re-install the timing cover and torque to specs.

be sure you don't go too crazy with the RTV. you don't want to have bits of cured RTV floating around inside your engine where they could block oil journals.
__________________
'94 W124.036 249/040 leder; 8.25x17 EvoIIs
'93 W124.036 199/040 leder; 8.25x17 EvoIIs, up in flames...LITERALLY!
'93 W124.036 481/040 leder; euro delivery; 8.25x17 EvoIIs
'88 R107.048 441/409 leder; Euro lights
'87 W201.034 199/040 leder; Euro lights; EvoII brakes; 8x16 EvoIs - soon: 500E rear brakes
'70 R113.044 050/526; factory alloys; Euro lights
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  #10  
Old 11-05-2003, 05:52 AM
J.HIDALGO's Avatar
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Some help...

I just did that job in my 103 engine. They are different but some information in the following posting should help you:
Head gasket/valve job 103 engine
Good luck!
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  #11  
Old 11-05-2003, 06:18 AM
johan6504
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Thanks for the link, got some answers.

That was a long discussion. Looks like removing the damper wheel is a tricky task, but not impossible. I probably need to manufacture a tool to hold the wheel while removing the bolt. One question not answered yet is if the wheel is likely to come loose after I get the bolt out though.

Last edited by johan6504; 11-05-2003 at 03:08 PM.
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  #12  
Old 11-05-2003, 10:31 PM
J.HIDALGO's Avatar
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In reference to your unanswered question...

YES!
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  #13  
Old 11-06-2003, 05:17 AM
johan6504
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In reference to your answer...

I rellay hope it does
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  #14  
Old 11-06-2003, 08:49 PM
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I removed the damper bolt this evening. Used the MB tool on the flywheel, the Hazat (spelling?) 1/2" drive socket, a long breaker bar and a 4' long stainless steel pipe as a cheater on the breaker bar. I will get around to removing the damper wheel over the next couple days.
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