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  #31  
Old 12-15-2003, 02:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by haasman
chazola

Be sure and check the upper shock mounts as well. If you see little tiny cracks from the top, there is a good propability they are torn at the bottom.

Haasman
Also check the front dust boots (plastic bellows). These usually disintegrate long before the shocks go. I replaced them on my 190 last year. They are not expensive parts at the dealer. Since the struts have to come off to replace them (not at all a hard job) I also removed and carefully inspected the top mounts and they appeared as new - no cracks.

Duke
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  #32  
Old 12-15-2003, 03:03 PM
chazola's Avatar
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Location: Dorset, United Kingdom
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here's how my strut mounts look- (driver's side shown) some hairline cracks in the rubber... no clunks or creaks (yet)
Attached Thumbnails
124 rear fails bounce test-img_1984.jpg  
__________________
1993 320TE M104
---------------------------------------------------
past:

1983 230E W123 M102
1994 E300D S124 OM606 (x2)
1967 250SE W108 M129
1972 280se 3.5 W108 M116
1980 280SE W116 M110
1980 350SE W116 M116
1992 300E W124 M103
1994 E280 W124 M104
----------------------------------------------
"music and women I cannot but give way to, whatever my business" -Pepys
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  #33  
Old 12-15-2003, 03:28 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 3,097
chazola

If they are cracked, replace them.

The cracks at the top are not the most important place to look. When you have them out, turn the shock mount over and look underneath. Mine (on the 190) had very similiar little cracks, but underneath were torn considerably creating and awful lumpa bumpa lumpa sound when I went over bumps.

Haasman
__________________
'03 E320 Wagon-Sold
'95 E320 Wagon-Went to Ex
'93 190E 2.6-Wrecked
'91 300E-Went to Ex
'65 911 Coupe (#302580)
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  #34  
Old 12-15-2003, 06:11 PM
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mine aren't making the umpa lumpa bumpa sound yet... but i'm sure it's onloy a matter of time...

new rear shocks and front sway bar bushings just arrived, so hopefully they'll get fitted tomorrow depending on the weather (bloody freezing here, wish i had me own garage:-)
__________________
1993 320TE M104
---------------------------------------------------
past:

1983 230E W123 M102
1994 E300D S124 OM606 (x2)
1967 250SE W108 M129
1972 280se 3.5 W108 M116
1980 280SE W116 M110
1980 350SE W116 M116
1992 300E W124 M103
1994 E280 W124 M104
----------------------------------------------
"music and women I cannot but give way to, whatever my business" -Pepys
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  #35  
Old 12-15-2003, 06:25 PM
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Posts: 3,097
It is a bummer when you get your new parts but it is really just too cold to put them on!

With sway bar bushings, be sure the car is on the ground and level before you tighten the bushing cap holders. This way you avoid any preloads.

I would say the same holds true for the rear shocker's lower bolts.

If you are going to wait on the front shock mounts, they are not too hard to replace separately. You simply leave the front wheel on, unbolt the three mount bolts and the center shock nut, jack up the car enough to compress the shock and get the mount off.

Installation is just the reverse with the added pain of collapsing the shock enough to get the shock mount on top of it before it wants to extend.

Haasman
__________________
'03 E320 Wagon-Sold
'95 E320 Wagon-Went to Ex
'93 190E 2.6-Wrecked
'91 300E-Went to Ex
'65 911 Coupe (#302580)
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  #36  
Old 12-16-2003, 06:23 PM
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Location: Dorset, United Kingdom
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W124 no longer fails bounce test :-)

got my bilsteins on-yay! my first major car repair ever done. I'd say the hardest bit was getting the old nuts off- they really didn't want to budge.
The old shocks were really shot. Funnily, seemed to scrape and generally injure myself more installing the second one- hmm... maybe 'cause i was getting hungry.
Anyway, car feels much happier now and although i car hear and feel every little bump in the road, I like it that way:-)

Haasman-

here's a photo of the link that has some movement in it- sway bar to the link the connects to the lower control arm. Bushings don't look too bad condition but i can move the link back and forth a small amount.
Attached Thumbnails
124 rear fails bounce test-img_1992.jpg  
__________________
1993 320TE M104
---------------------------------------------------
past:

1983 230E W123 M102
1994 E300D S124 OM606 (x2)
1967 250SE W108 M129
1972 280se 3.5 W108 M116
1980 280SE W116 M110
1980 350SE W116 M116
1992 300E W124 M103
1994 E280 W124 M104
----------------------------------------------
"music and women I cannot but give way to, whatever my business" -Pepys
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  #37  
Old 12-16-2003, 06:41 PM
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New shocks .... nice .... new Bilsteins, really nice!

It is hard to describe exactly, but the idea of the sway link to the sway bar end is to allow movement (up and down of the link connected to the each wheel) but not any excess play.

A tight connection is very important. Even a tiny bit loose connection translates into excessive body roll, often hard to perceive.

That is why the sway bar bushing replacements make such a difference. Yes the old ones hold the bar, but just the tiniest bit of play translates into sloppy handling. It is especially perceived during hard and fast lane change transitions; the car with fresh bushings and good links just feels tighter.

Haasman
__________________
'03 E320 Wagon-Sold
'95 E320 Wagon-Went to Ex
'93 190E 2.6-Wrecked
'91 300E-Went to Ex
'65 911 Coupe (#302580)
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  #38  
Old 12-16-2003, 06:57 PM
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guess i'll be ordering my new rear sway bushings and links then... at least they're cheap:-)

Need to get the subframe mount bushings replaced too- all cracked.

that one's probably a bit out of my league though- I'll take it to the shop for those.

couldn't have asked for a better day today- 45 degrees, sun all day and no wind. Good thing my mum sent me this tartan rug from the UK.... very useful.
Attached Thumbnails
124 rear fails bounce test-img_1993.jpg  
__________________
1993 320TE M104
---------------------------------------------------
past:

1983 230E W123 M102
1994 E300D S124 OM606 (x2)
1967 250SE W108 M129
1972 280se 3.5 W108 M116
1980 280SE W116 M110
1980 350SE W116 M116
1992 300E W124 M103
1994 E280 W124 M104
----------------------------------------------
"music and women I cannot but give way to, whatever my business" -Pepys
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  #39  
Old 12-16-2003, 07:28 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 3,097
Spoken like a true DIYer!

(We won't tell her about the rug)

Enjoy the fruits of your labor.

Haasman
__________________
'03 E320 Wagon-Sold
'95 E320 Wagon-Went to Ex
'93 190E 2.6-Wrecked
'91 300E-Went to Ex
'65 911 Coupe (#302580)
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  #40  
Old 12-16-2003, 08:18 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Evansville, Indiana
Posts: 8,150
How far down did you run the nuts on the top of the shock? They should only be as far down as it takes to get a thread or two showing on the top nut, or the equivalvent distance if you have only an nylock locker nut. If you run them down til they are "tight" the cars gonna ride really hard, the rubber will be completely compressed and cannot absorb any roughtness. If too tight, just run them back up.

I did this on the 220D, rides way too hard, but didn't fix it -- I'll replace the cheapo Gabriels with Bilsteins if I can save it.

Peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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  #41  
Old 12-16-2003, 08:26 PM
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Location: Dorset, United Kingdom
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hmmmmm...

i did do them pretty tight- i'll check again tomorrow and see just how much.
thanks for the info.
__________________
1993 320TE M104
---------------------------------------------------
past:

1983 230E W123 M102
1994 E300D S124 OM606 (x2)
1967 250SE W108 M129
1972 280se 3.5 W108 M116
1980 280SE W116 M110
1980 350SE W116 M116
1992 300E W124 M103
1994 E280 W124 M104
----------------------------------------------
"music and women I cannot but give way to, whatever my business" -Pepys
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  #42  
Old 12-16-2003, 10:04 PM
chazola's Avatar
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Dorset, United Kingdom
Posts: 1,238
actually...

I just remembered- the new shocks came with 1 nut- is that the 'nylock' type one? The original struts had 2 nuts, and I re-used those as i could only get the one that came with the bilsteins threaded down a certain amount- is this how the nut is supposed to work? I though there was something wrong with it so i used the originals, but maybe the new nut works in the way you're suggesting so it doesn't compress the rubber too much?
__________________
1993 320TE M104
---------------------------------------------------
past:

1983 230E W123 M102
1994 E300D S124 OM606 (x2)
1967 250SE W108 M129
1972 280se 3.5 W108 M116
1980 280SE W116 M110
1980 350SE W116 M116
1992 300E W124 M103
1994 E280 W124 M104
----------------------------------------------
"music and women I cannot but give way to, whatever my business" -Pepys
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  #43  
Old 12-16-2003, 10:34 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 3,097
Regardless of which nut or nut combo you used, the idea is to not tighten the rubber under the large washer too much.

Personally, I've always cranked them down. I rather loose a little compliance for the firmer ride and road feel.

Haasman
__________________
'03 E320 Wagon-Sold
'95 E320 Wagon-Went to Ex
'93 190E 2.6-Wrecked
'91 300E-Went to Ex
'65 911 Coupe (#302580)
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  #44  
Old 12-16-2003, 11:09 PM
chazola's Avatar
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Dorset, United Kingdom
Posts: 1,238
I like a firm ride too but I'm wondering if i tightened too much- it's pretty solid when you try the bounce test now -it's very stiff to push down a little way and it returns to the level position very sharply. I guess this is probably normal behavior for a brand new strut though.

My Haynes manual gives torque settings for the nuts so i'll go get a 17mm ext. socket so i can use my torque wrench to set them- 'cause i'm kinda pedantic like that :-)
__________________
1993 320TE M104
---------------------------------------------------
past:

1983 230E W123 M102
1994 E300D S124 OM606 (x2)
1967 250SE W108 M129
1972 280se 3.5 W108 M116
1980 280SE W116 M110
1980 350SE W116 M116
1992 300E W124 M103
1994 E280 W124 M104
----------------------------------------------
"music and women I cannot but give way to, whatever my business" -Pepys
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  #45  
Old 12-17-2003, 01:27 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Evansville, Indiana
Posts: 8,150
The nylock nut will be very hard to turn after it goes past the end of the thread. It's supposed to, it "locks" on the thread so the nut won't unscrew. Quite a pain when you have to unscrew one off a rusty bolt about half and inch, it won't spin freely until the nut is almost off.

Your new shocks will be somewhat stiffer than the old ones for a while, they will get a bit softer with some milage. Not as squashy as the old ones, though! How does it drive now?

Top nut should only be down far enough to two threads to show on the shaft, then lock the two nuts together. Nylock nut should be less than 1/4" down, or in the position the bottom nut would be.

Setting the nut correctly don't change the handling significantly, it just allows the rubber to absorb the initial roughness and smooths things out. That way you don't feel gravel and rough pavement through the seat.

Peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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