Beats Chest!!!

[conversekidz]

I DID IT!!! I fixed my 1990 300e stall problem. I would like to thank everyone on the board (I know I didn't ask a question, but I read everyones post on the problem, so thank you).

My car now idles like a top, no rumbles at all, nice and smooth. It no longer dies while driving.

Here is the list of what I did.

Replaced all rubber vaccum lines, made sure there where no vaccum leaks. Replaced the airflow meter (its called something else though), didn't have to adjust it, placed it in the same possition as the original and it worked perfectly. Lastly, I replaced my voltage regulator.

It cost me right about 100$ to replace everything, and now the car runs like a champ.

[euronatura]

You gotta love it when one fixes his own car!!! It is a great fealing that one gets when he/she fixes something that normally other people pay someone else to do. And this includes home repair also!

[fahrgewehr2]

Airflow meter you say? Could you elaborate on your symptoms, what your duty cycle was doing, cost of part etc.?

Would be much appreciated.

Mike

[conversekidz]

correction the piece i replaced was called a potentiometer, its the black box on the side of the airflow meter.

Symptoms:

Rough Idle
Would die coming to a stop, would die turning, would stumble and die while accelerating, it pretty much would die while driving.
When the car was out of gear it would run fine (less the rough idle), but in gear it would quit at weird times.

Read on the board that the OVP can cause this problem, so i opened it up, everything looked ok, put it back in the car and the same things started to happen.

Had a check engine light on, pulled codes 7, 10, 27, RPM signal, and CIS-e and EZL faults. Removed the flywheel sensor, found it rather gumbed up, cleaned the sensor and replaced. Cleaned the TDC sensor on the front of motor.

Pulled MAS relay, opened it up and checked for any damage, there was none (MAS contains the fuel relay on the 1990 300e's), replaced MAS.

Thinking that the OVP might actually be bad, I pulled it, and ran the car without it, had the same stalling characteritics, replaced OVP.


Thought for a while, thought it might be fuel pumps, removed MAS relay, jumped 1-2 pin, checked to make sure both pumps where pumping, they where, replaced MAS relay.

Thought for a while longer, asked myself what could be causing this, then I realized under load the fuel pumps would be drawing more current, if the alternator couldn't supply enough it would shut it down as a power fault (this might be completed wrong, but its the why it went over in my head).

Pulled voltage regulator, it was next to nothing. Installed new regulator, car runs nice and smooth now, doesn't die.

Currently no codes are getting thrown out.

[conversekidz]

potentiometer was 70$

the voltage regulator was 32$

My time...... Priceless
haha


Oh, and I didn't use a voltage meter to check duty cycle or anything like that, just logically when through everything in my head as to what could cause what.

[xp190]

I just pulled the timing cover off my 190, this is the second day I'm at it and all to replace a broken tensioner blade

At least now I know my diagnosis was right on the money

xp

[pesuazo]

Congratulations on your success, and thank you for sharing it with us.
I will assume you bought the potentiometer from Olympic motors?
'Cause I am seriously considering getting one.

[conversekidz]

no, I had a shop here order it for me, they carry bosche parts, so they can order it right up, I ordered it at 3pm yesterday and got it at 9am the next day.

[pesuazo]

Price?

[cc260E]

conversekidz [/i]
[B]potentiometer was 70$


conversekidz,

congratulations

Would be helpfull if you could post a picture of the old Potentiometre